Finishing a brass plaque

[Dani Girl]

I am engraving a brass plaque for my Grandma and I was wandering if I could ask how is the best way to finish it.

If I lacquer it it will break down after a couple of years at best I expect.

I could brass black it then wax it with furniture polish (carnubara wax?)

I recently got some heat proof black paint too.

Jake Weidmann kindly helped with the Calligraphy for the layout.

 

[Dani Girl]

 

[sam]

Jake did a fabulous job with the calligraphy! That guy is awesome.

I'll be watching to see what recommendations you get for the brass. I think lacquer is ok since they paint cars with it and it seems to last. What a nice tribute to your grandmother.

 

[rayf24]

I have done several brass memorial plaques and am at the moment doing another.
As for the finish I have used two pack clear lacquer with good results.

 

[Mark Knapp]

That's very nice, in fact it's amazing. I'm sorry she's not with you this Christmas, I'm sure you will be with her again. (If you believe in that sort of thing).

 

[Dani Girl]

Thank you Mark. Yes I do believe.

Thanks

 

[Ron Spokovich]

I did two small projects, some years back, that came out well and haven't dulled. First, all lacquers are NOT the same, and I got a few ounces from a plater who did a job for me. Second, keep a dedicated, small can of lacquer thinner around for such projects, and I don't think the brand matters. . .keep the dirt out. I diluted my lacquer and thinner 50%, which was called out, and you have to work quick. Set up different props to hold your work, and with dry brushing practice handling the job, and setting it down on something hollow and elevated slightly so you can get your fingers out. It's best, if you can, to use a quality bristle brush, camel hair's fine, with no loose hairs. Since the mix is very thin, it's ideal if you can brush on a just-barely-enough coat in one stroke. If not, be quick with the second, and you won't see a seam. I did a pile of muzzleloader brass, and it hasn't dulled to this day. Absolutel cleanliness and preparation is key!

 

[dlilazteca]

Dani,

Sorry for your loss, but that is some lovely letters, wish there was a font the looked like that. Thank you for sharing

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[Tim Wells]

Lacquer will be just fine for a couple of reasons. It is easy to apply and fix if you make a mistake or get a run or sag. Just don't use nitrocellulose lacquer as it is fine for instruments for its "acoustic transparency" but it turns yellow with time whereas an acrylic lacquer will not.

 

[Big-Un]

Excellent job! I suggest using acrylic laquer and apply it with an airbrush.

 

[Dani Girl]

So... cleaning. Is wiping with metholated spirits and a tissue good enough

 

[Dani Girl]

 

[Gary Malone]

Awesome job!

 

[Dani Girl]

Everyone thinks I should blacken the letters. Don't know if I can and wipe it cleanly off the rough surface finish. Acrylic laquer you reckon?

 

[Tim Wells]

I would not blacken anything and loose the gleam of the beauty cuts, that's just my personal view though. You definitely would have a chore getting paint out of the rough surface if you blackened it but it could be done.

To clean it before clear coating it, you could use lacquer thinner which would be ideal, or alcohol. I don't know what metholated spirits means. Any good solvent that flashes off or evaporates quickly will do fine as long as it doesn't leave a visible film when it dries.

P.S. That's really elegant lettering by the way, well done.

 

[Dani Girl]

Ok, I've got some lacquer for my brother to finish it with his airbrush.

 

[Ron Spokovich]

Beautiful job! For a wipe down, just prior to applying a finish, you want everything lint free and those pesky fibres can escape detection. In the lab, we used a lint-free wipe that dispenses like a box of Kleenex. They come in a bax about 4" x 4", and the brand escapes me, at the moment so I'll try to dig them up for a look. You might try a Google search. They work well!

 

[Ron Spokovich]

I found the wipes! For the cleaning, I'd recommend acetone, or methanol (dry gas) which evaporates very quickly. The wipes I have are made by Kimberly-Clark, #34155, and are called Kimwipes EX-L (extra low-lint plus), Delicate Task Wipers. There may be some equivalent product out there, someplace. The trouble with Kleenex, and everything else, is that if you shake them, you can see the fibres coming off like pollen. Just thought this might help you!

 

[Omar Haltam]

wet nice engraving , it looks great

 

[McAhron]

Cera-kote ceramic clear coats the way to go.