Flintlock Butt Plate

LRB

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Hi, this is my best and latest. Work was done by hammer and chisel, no magnification, layout was free handed onto the plate. Please feel free to comment, critique, ect.
 

Sam

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Nice job LRB. I like the leafy design around the screw. Shading looks good...I might have extened the lines a bit longer, but it still looks good. I might also have increased the spacing on the nick-and-dot borders just a bit. This is personal preference of course. Your cutting looks very clean and neat.
 

Bama

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Very nice, I see that the rifle is going to have a wooden patch box, and with that nice wide butt plate it is going to be an early rifle, I would love to see more pictures. I have not been able to do the nick and dot border very well. I have had a couple of people show me how they do it but I have not gotten the hang of it yet. I know practice, practice, practice but I am doing something wrong. I can not seem to make the perimid shaped cut with my square graver. Is this the right graver to do this job with?
 

LRB

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Sam, thankyou for the tips, I will diffinetly try your suggestions. I am not even up to amatuer status yet. Any critiqueing is appreciated, and welcome.
Bama, I watched a Lynton Mckenzie tape, and immediately got the nicks to work, but do have a tendancy to space them too close. Try a flat graver. I made mine from a piece of file.
 

LRB

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BAMA, to be sure you know the method. If you are right handed, go from right to left with the cut. Set your graver blade 90o to the line. Don't let it touch the outer edge of the line, or it will leave a mark. Dig in, making half of an inverted V, and sort of flick it out with a slight twist. If you don't get the depth you want first try, repeat. Having the graver as sharp as you can make it also helps. Work your series of nicks from left to right. That seems to make spacing easier. If you make your nick a bit smaller than the previous, you have the option to adjust it's position a tad, by a second cut either from the center of your cut, or the right edge of it, which ever direction you need to move it. I am sure those who do this on a regular basis do not have to do this.
 

KSnyder

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LRB, nice job on the buttplate. The design is nice & not too busy. Is that either a Virginia or Bucks county?
Kent
 

LRB

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KSnyder, it is an Edward Marshall from Tip Curtis. The engraving designs are not really proper for this particular gun, but Tip took a few liberties himself. The owner does not care, so I thought I would experiment a bit.
 

KSnyder

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LRB, yeah, it threw me off , I've not seen an E.Marshall rifle buttplate with a wedding band on the return. It will look great on the rifle.
Kent
 

Marcus Hunt

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Bama, this 'nick'/'pyramid is one of engravings basic cuts. The most basic is the 'tear drop' cut from thin to thick, next is the straight line and the next is this pyramid cut. It is used on all sorts of things so leading on from this nick and dot you'd have a 'bead' border'. This is 2 parallel lines with 2 pyramids on one line directly facing 2 pyramids on the other which are joined to their oposite number by a tiny line. This forms what appears to be a small circle or oval depending on how far apart the pyramids are. The infill is the dot. The pyramid/nick is also used on Roman lettering forming the seraph.

Practice the cut by gently rolling the hand away from you to form the peak and then back towards where it started. You are aiming for a symetrical cut. Don't over roll the graver or the peak will hook back on itself forming what we call a 'sharks tooth' which isn't what's wanted. A square graver is all that's required, nothing fancy.

hope this helps,
Marcus
 

Bama

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Thanks Marcus

I will try to apply your method and hopefully I will have success.
 

LRB

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Marcus, I'm not sure I understand. Are you saying, start from the line and cut upward? Or start away from the line and go to it?
 

fegarex

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Everyone seems to have a way to do the nicks using a square or flat graver, rolling away or toward you. I like to use a square but that's my preference. I will tell you that it takes some practice and "rhythm". Once you get it, the process makes a very fast and attractive border. I usually make a "dry run" on a practice plate if I'm doing a fancy job to get my mo jo working....
 

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