Question: How much magnification

dagnabbit

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Sep 3, 2007
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Hi All. I have a question about microscope magnification. After using an optivisor for several months, I've come to the realization that my eyes need more assistance. I have located an Olympus SZ6045 that seems reasonably priced. The zoom range is 10 - 63. Assuming I add the 0.5 barlow lens the absolute minimum magnification is 5. Is that correct? and is that too much magnification for scroll engraving on knives and/or firearms? Thanks for any and all advice.
 

MICHAEL

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I have a Leica model A60. Magnification range of 5-30 but I only have 5-23 b/c of the objective lens that allows more working distance under the scope. I think I have a .5 objectibe, but not sure. Been a long time. I have about 7-10” of working distance under my scope. Others with more experience may say something else but I think you should save your money and buy a scope in the range of 5-30. I have never needed less magnification, but at times, like trying to see if my graver point has a microchip it, it would be nice to have a little more mag. I would think anything beyond 30 would be too much unless your doing micro work that I’m unaware of. Hope this helps.
 

dagnabbit

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I have a Leica model A60. Magnification range of 5-30 but I only have 5-23 b/c of the objective lens that allows more working distance under the scope. I think I have a .5 objectibe, but not sure. Been a long time. I have about 7-10” of working distance under my scope. Others with more experience may say something else but I think you should save your money and buy a scope in the range of 5-30. I have never needed less magnification, but at times, like trying to see if my graver point has a microchip it, it would be nice to have a little more mag. I would think anything beyond 30 would be too much unless your doing micro work that I’m unaware of. Hope this helps.
Thanks Michael, that does help.

And maybe my question was not clear now that I read it again. I realize the SZ6045 zoom magnification with the 0.5 lens will be in the 5 to 30 range. Is that an acceptable range (5 being the minimum)?

Should have also said that my optivisor is 2.5 and is almost but not quite adequate.
 

MICHAEL

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I’m not familiar with any other scope than the Leica A60 but that range is fine. Other more experienced engravers can tell you or you can Google it, but the objective lens you choose will limit your high end of magnification. As you increase the mag. the diopters or whatever they’re called will contact your objective lens and thus limit your mag. I just checked and I have a .63x objective lens. I would wait for feedback concerning your work distance under the scope with a .5x objective.
 

Artist007

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I’m a pretty new engraver, but was fortunate to come across an entire setup. I have a Leica A60 with a 0.63x objective lense. The work distance is about 8”. I believe the minimum zoom is 3.5x, and maximum zoom is 15.75x. This range has been ok for what I’ve done so far. I can do pretty intricate scroll work and pretty fine shading. I could probably do a decent size men’s ring with a fair bit of detail. For pocket knives, pistols, bracelets, things like that, it’s more than adequate. Eventually I would like to have a little more magnification to do narrow rings and watch parts a little easier, but I can do a broad range of things with what I have.
 

Meshach

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Jul 22, 2023
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I have an old Bosh & Lomb MCW552 that I got through a friend who's uncle used to run a repair shop years ago. it has 10x eye pieces and .7 - 3 zoom giving me 7-30x I run it at 7 pretty much all the time, I feel like the clarity of the image and lack of eyestrain makes much more zoom unnecessary for much other than very fine and detailed line work or ballino that is expected to be inspected and admired under magnification. That being said there are times when I would not be opposed to a little less zoom, but only for the added field of view it would provide to do longer continuous cuts on larger scroll backbones or borderlines without having to drift the engravers block across the banding wheel or having to stop and readjust, but there is always something you can't see or some reason to have to adjust anyway...
I also would like to note that I only have about 4 inched of focal distance to the work piece, ( I knew it was a little short but I had not measured it until just now..) there are times , mostly when stippling, that it feels tight but it has not stopped me from being able to make any cuts that I have tried to do so far.

my experience so far is limited to a couple years as a hobbiest so take it with a grain of salt,
but I believe 5-30x zoom is very suitable for engraving.
 

DaveAtWeirs

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when using the leica, i seldom needed more than 20 x. i had a working distance of about 7-8"
seconding this. mine is default set to 20.

If I'm going in closer its for very very small watch engraving stuff that a regular person would need a loupe to appreciate and even at that I usually only go to 30x, any further and your focal field is very limited and your return on detail and effort put in is limited (its handy for very discreetly signing work though;))

if it's any help: I have a leica sd9, 10x/23 eye pieces, and an APO 0.63x/WD150mm objective lens. the working distance is perfect but it's a very tall scope (about 12" eyepieces to objective lens), if you get one of the shorter ones you may need an objective lens with a longer focal distance
 

AllenClapp

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When I first tried out the Leica A60, it was in a GRS class. I did not like using the standard 0.63 auxiliary lens because I could not see an entire 2"x2" practice plate in it when I wanted to. That meant that I could not see much of any scene that I might want to engrave on a rifle, etc. They kindly pulled a 0.50 lens off one of the units in the demo room and I fell in love. The 0.50 lens also gives me more room under the scope for using a Maestro EX vertically for stippling. Even though the 0.50 lens will not let me zoom in as far as the 0.63 lens, I can still zoom in farther than I ever use. If I ever start doing something so detailed that I need more magnification, I will gladly pony up for a 0.63 lens or higher magnification lens.
CAUTION: As to objective lens powers, different scopes have different power lenses to go with their internal lenses, so a 0.50 lens on one scope may not give the same width of view and working room below the lens as the same number value lens on a scope of another manufacturer. If at all possible, you may like yourself better if you can find an engraver with the system that you want and try out the view and working distance to see if it works for you.
 

dagnabbit

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Sep 3, 2007
Messages
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I’m a pretty new engraver, but was fortunate to come across an entire setup. I have a Leica A60 with a 0.63x objective lense. The work distance is about 8”. I believe the minimum zoom is 3.5x, and maximum zoom is 15.75x. This range has been ok for what I’ve done so far. I can do pretty intricate scroll work and pretty fine shading. I could probably do a decent size men’s ring with a fair bit of detail. For pocket knives, pistols, bracelets, things like that, it’s more than adequate. Eventually I would like to have a little more magnification to do narrow rings and watch parts a little easier, but I can do a broad range of things with what I have.
Thanks for the reply. That helps with understanding the acceptable range. Appreciate the information.
 

dagnabbit

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Sep 3, 2007
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I have an old Bosh & Lomb MCW552 that I got through a friend who's uncle used to run a repair shop years ago. it has 10x eye pieces and .7 - 3 zoom giving me 7-30x I run it at 7 pretty much all the time, I feel like the clarity of the image and lack of eyestrain makes much more zoom unnecessary for much other than very fine and detailed line work or ballino that is expected to be inspected and admired under magnification. That being said there are times when I would not be opposed to a little less zoom, but only for the added field of view it would provide to do longer continuous cuts on larger scroll backbones or borderlines without having to drift the engravers block across the banding wheel or having to stop and readjust, but there is always something you can't see or some reason to have to adjust anyway...
I also would like to note that I only have about 4 inched of focal distance to the work piece, ( I knew it was a little short but I had not measured it until just now..) there are times , mostly when stippling, that it feels tight but it has not stopped me from being able to make any cuts that I have tried to do so far.

my experience so far is limited to a couple years as a hobbiest so take it with a grain of salt,
but I believe 5-30x zoom is very suitable for engraving.
Mesach, thanks for that information. I was hoping that 5x was not too much magnification for the lowest setting. Sounds like anything in that 3x to 7x range should be comfortable.
 

dagnabbit

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Sep 3, 2007
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Daveat, I appreciate the input. I had not considered the height of the scope after adding the working distance.
 

dagnabbit

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Sep 3, 2007
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When I first tried out the Leica A60, it was in a GRS class. I did not like using the standard 0.63 auxiliary lens because I could not see an entire 2"x2" practice plate in it when I wanted to. That meant that I could not see much of any scene that I might want to engrave on a rifle, etc. They kindly pulled a 0.50 lens off one of the units in the demo room and I fell in love. The 0.50 lens also gives me more room under the scope for using a Maestro EX vertically for stippling. Even though the 0.50 lens will not let me zoom in as far as the 0.63 lens, I can still zoom in farther than I ever use. If I ever start doing something so detailed that I need more magnification, I will gladly pony up for a 0.63 lens or higher magnification lens.
CAUTION: As to objective lens powers, different scopes have different power lenses to go with their internal lenses, so a 0.50 lens on one scope may not give the same width of view and working room below the lens as the same number value lens on a scope of another manufacturer. If at all possible, you may like yourself better if you can find an engraver with the system that you want and try out the view and working distance to see if it works for you.
Allen, agreed the 2x2 field of view is desirable. Also good advice on the lens match ups to the different brand of scopes. That was going to be my next question. Can I (or should I) install an Amscope lens on the Olympus scope? Any recommendations on lens sources? Thanks for the reply.
 

monk

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I’m a pretty new engraver, but was fortunate to come across an entire setup. I have a Leica A60 with a 0.63x objective lense. The work distance is about 8”. I believe the minimum zoom is 3.5x, and maximum zoom is 15.75x. This range has been ok for what I’ve done so far. I can do pretty intricate scroll work and pretty fine shading. I could probably do a decent size men’s ring with a fair bit of detail. For pocket knives, pistols, bracelets, things like that, it’s more than adequate. Eventually I would like to have a little more magnification to do narrow rings and watch parts a little easier, but I can do a broad range of things with what I have.
if you're happy with the working distance and the barlow as is, you can always increase the power by getting more powerful eyepieces.
 

Artist007

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if you're happy with the working distance and the barlow as is, you can always increase the power by getting more powerful eyepieces.
Absolutely, I will end up getting the 0.75x objective lens at some point. I was just looking through a recent GRS catalogue yesterday. It's the only more powerful one I saw in their catalogue. Are there any other options any where else you think? Thanks.
 

Artist007

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Allen, agreed the 2x2 field of view is desirable. Also good advice on the lens match ups to the different brand of scopes. That was going to be my next question. Can I (or should I) install an Amscope lens on the Olympus scope? Any recommendations on lens sources? Thanks for the reply.
I just saw this and did a quick check under my Leica A60 with a 0.63x objective lens. I was able to lower my telescopic GRS turntable vice stand all the way, raise up the Acrobat Versa / Leica A60 about three inches or so, zoom out all the way and refocus, and I could easily see an entire 2" plate with a little room to spare. It helps to have a setup that allows mobility. I also have a low friction pad under the vice so it can be nudged easily and quickly so I can keep my vice stand centered under the scope. And of course the ability to not only rotate the vice, but also rotate the vice table top is extremely helpful. However, these add up pretty quickly in cost.

Also, to get an idea of the level of detail a complete amateur beginner can do with this setup, here are the very first two things I did when I got everything set up and just started. The scroll is a Sam Alfano study on a 2" x4" plate, and of course a Zippo for my dad.



 

AllenClapp

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Your size may also make a difference. At over 6 ft tall, I found that, when the scope was first set at a comfortable eye level, my hands needed to be higher than was comfortable for long sessions with the 0.63 standard lens. When I went to the 0.50 lens, it increased the working distance and dropped my hands down to a much more comfortable level. Now that I am over 80, I can tell you that the lowered hand position makes a huge difference to my comfort. I can still sit erect without having to slouch over to see through the scope and be comfortable with my hands. This can be a big deal for those of us who have had shoulder issues in the past.
 

dagnabbit

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Sep 3, 2007
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I just saw this and did a quick check under my Leica A60 with a 0.63x objective lens. I was able to lower my telescopic GRS turntable vice stand all the way, raise up the Acrobat Versa / Leica A60 about three inches or so, zoom out all the way and refocus, and I could easily see an entire 2" plate with a little room to spare. It helps to have a setup that allows mobility. I also have a low friction pad under the vice so it can be nudged easily and quickly so I can keep my vice stand centered under the scope. And of course the ability to not only rotate the vice, but also rotate the vice table top is extremely helpful. However, these add up pretty quickly in cost.

Also, to get an idea of the level of detail a complete amateur beginner can do with this setup, here are the very first two things I did when I got everything set up and just started. The scroll is a Sam Alfano study on a 2" x4" plate, and of course a Zippo for my dad.



Very nice work there. Thanks for the advice.
 

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