Is this ready for leaves?

fegarex

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Jim,
Here's my suggestion.. Go back to the drawing Andrew did and print it out. Then trace over the main scrolls (backbones) only. This will give you a better feel how the backbones of the scrolls should look. Play with that a bit and then go back to your design and see if you can work the scrolls over a bit. The drawing Andrew did is a very good baseline to work from. Once you get that down, then work on the leaves. The scroll backbone is very important to a good design, much like a foundation of a house. If the foundation is wrong you will fight it all the way to the finish.
Hope this helps.
 

Roger Bleile

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Jim,

I agree with Rex. Also, as I wrote in another thread, stay away from those "C" scrolls. The "C" scrolls are the ones in the Nokia on the left that are in the upper right corner (looks like a C backwards) and the one in the lower left corner (looks like the letter C facing the right direction).

Roger
 

Ron Smith

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Hi Jim, Your skeletal layout in your second example is better than the first, but there are some things I am wondering about. What are you going to do with the massive spaces that need some indication of leaf size. If you put leaves according to the indications of these spaces (large leaves), you will have what I call focal points. On the other hand, if you put spirals to match the leaves of the other areas and spirals, the leaves will be more compatable and small. This is called continuity and you might have to put some small spirals in these spaces to keep your leaf mass relatively consistent all over the design.

2. The distance that you have indicated between the spine lines of your spirals as they come around to terminate in the center is not going to allow vor very big leaves, but that is consistant with the small spirals surrounding the lower part, but this distance between the spiral line determines the size of the leaf, does it not? Therefore, try and keep this consistant no matter how large or small the spiral. You might need to study the anatomy of the spiral some more. I alway suggest that a student learn one very good leaf structure first (break it down and reconstruct it). Learn the spiral structure next, and then learn how to combine them into a design.

3. If you have a very big leaf and then a lot of very small ones, you create a situation that attracts the eye and causes it to notice the large leaf mass and stops the motion of the work. See what I mean? This is what I call focal points. You want the eye to flow smoothly over the design so that nothing is more important than something else unless you intend to attract the eye to a certain spot or you want the eye to move in a certain way.

4. Having said all of that, I cannot see what your intensions are in those large areas that you will have to put something, so I would suggest some attention to these areas so that you know what you are going to do in these spaces.

5. Concentrate on making your spirals as round and consistent as possible, within the spiral and also within the composition, and your symmetry too. This will smooth out your design and make it look more precise and professional. Get it as good as you can draw it, and then add the leaves. the reason I say that is because as it stands, your layout, because of those irregularities, will require varying leaf sizes to fit into the design, and will confuse your composition and make it look a bit ragged. I realize these are only preliminary ideas and that is good for the consumption of space, but for finnesse purposes, it is good to find all or any flaws that exist in your composition. If you have vast cutting experience, you could go to work right now with the graver and fill in the void areas, but even with my years, I still like to see an almost perfected drawing as I find that I often get good ideas along the way struggling with layout.

I would rather you struggle with these concepts rather than show you or draw for you at this point, because you will retain the rules and principals better and you will remember the rules, not just get through the project. When that light comes on within. It then becomes an understanding rather than just words.

If we need to discuss this more, feel free to ask.
Good luck!

Post any alterations you might make and we will go at it again.

Unfortunately, I am not too good on the computer, and don't know the protocols for posting pictures and drawings and such to help you much more than this at this time.

Ron S
 

Christopher Malouf

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Wow,

Feedback don't get any better than that!!!

Hi Jim, keep trying different layouts as you practice drawing scroll. You gotta a good, challenging little area to fill. I like those tiny scrolls around the bottom .... they're great for borders. Try using those small scrolls as a border around the entire edge and then in the remaining space, draw your large scrolls after you've got a focal point to start from (just as Ron says).

Your gut feeling will tell you when you've got something you really feel comfortable with. It'll grab you. When I got something I really like, I'll sleep on it and if still looks right the next morning then it's a keeper. Don't forget to post what you come up with.

Chris
 
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monk

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another thing, if you can get even a cheap-- less than $25.00 opaque art projector, blow your drawings up to very large, like on your wall. this may- emphasis on may, help you to better visualize your good points and bad ones as well.
 

sdcoxx

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Jim,
Thanks for posting....
The feedback will help me improve on my problems with layout and design, as well...
Thanks again,
Stephen
 

KCSteve

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another thing, if you can get even a cheap-- less than $25.00 opaque art projector, blow your drawings up to very large, like on your wall. this may- emphasis on may, help you to better visualize your good points and bad ones as well.

Look in the 'toys' section of a place like Hobby Lobby - I've seen them there. Yeah, they're very low quality but for enlarging a sketch they should be worth the $20 or so they cost.

(Good tip Monk!)
 

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