Kudu bulino progress

[dcurrie911]

Still lots to do but thought some people may be interested in progress pics.

 

[John B.]

Thank you Daniel. Coming along nicely.

 

[papart1]

Thanks mister.......I'll be where your at I'm sure in the next 25-30 years. Nice job. Thanks for the update

 

[dcurrie911]

Thanks John and Papa. Papa, you are progressing so well I am sure you will be there in one tenth the time you projected.

Dan

 

[cropduster]

Very nice.

 

[monk]

what are you planning on doing to the background ? or are you undecided as yet ?

 

[dcurrie911]

Thanks Cropduster.

Monk, Interesting question. I was thinking I would just leave it clean metal But I guess I could consider something else. I would appreciate input. The second pic is a quick Procreate image with darkened background.

Dan

 

[SamW]

Progressing beautifully!

 

[dcurrie911]

Thanks Sam.
For some reason I decided to work on the eyes this morning.

 

[Dave London]

Fine work Dan thanks for the photos

 

[FANCYGUN]

Looking real hood Dan what tool are you using

 

[FANCYGUN]

Can’t type Looking real GOOD not hood

 

[dcurrie911]

Thanks Dave and Marty.

Marty, I almost exclusively hand push my bulino. Multiple handles just makes it easier/faster to switch between graver geometries.

 

[FANCYGUN]

So tell me about you graver geometries You have come a long way since the first photos you sent me yrs ago

 

[dcurrie911]

Thanks Marty. I have always used the Lindsay sharpening templates. Engraving is hard enough so I wanted to keep the sharpening aspect simple.
I use 96, 110, and 116 degree with really small heel for lines for fur/hair. 96 for lighter hair and 110 for slightly darker and 116 for darkest. This can be seen on the side of the nose/snout. 116 just off the ridge, transitioning to 110 on the side and then 96 under the eye. of course the darkness can also be controlled with line spacing and cross hatching which I use as well but I think the different geometries allows me to focus on line placement and let the geometry determine the shade. For really light lines like the ones on the edge of the eye lid just above the eyeball I drag the graver backward to only slightly cut the metal.
For dots I Primarily use the Phil Coggan tip, although I am trying some of the other geometries mentioned above without a heel as well. One of my Coggan gravers is considerably smaller than the other and is used for very fine or precision placement. Like between lines in the bottom of the ear or breaking up the highlight line just under the eyeball.
I use a homemade burnisher for white lines and highlights.

Probably more details than you wanted since you have forgotten more about engraving than I will ever know. But others may be interested.

 

[papart1]

Mr. Currie, I believe you are the first one to actively use different geos to achieve different results. At least the only one that expressed it. I wondered. I see you also use lines and dots, as do I. Thanks for the post, it gives me more incentive to use more geos othere than 116, and 90. paps

 

[FANCYGUN]

I basically use a 70,90 and a 105 for my work lines and Pockie-dots/pics

 

[dcurrie911]

Do you use the different geometries to achieve the different shades of grey or for a different reason?

 

[FANCYGUN]

Yes for different shades and also textures im not going for the finite photo realism.. i engrave the way I draw so I am sort of playing with illusions and showing the engraved lines more heres something Zi just finished its quite small on a K-22 Smith but enlarged you see my lines better looks crazy but real size it makes sense to the eye

 

[dcurrie911]

Marty, that is one of the many things I always admire about your work. You create art. Your western scenes are amazing. While I, if lucky, simply replicate photographic art. I hope younger more talented engravers than I study your work and learn to create their own pieces.