Question: Large parallel heel
- Thread starter Marcelo
- Start date
Tim Wells
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Rather than looking for a number which on a heel of a graver would be hard to measure; do this instead.
Grid up a graver and leave the heel grinds for last, meaning get your face to the grit you want as well as any other angles. Now put a heel on it using the minimum amount of strokes to produce a heel that you can see.
Try and cut on a scrap piece of metal and do enough cutting to remember exactly how that feels and how it cuts. What does it do with your normal hand position? Now take one more stroke per side on your hone (not running of course) or whatever you use for final polish. Cut another series of lines, curves and circles. Keep doing this and remember how the graver behaves with each change in heel length.
This process should tell you what you want to know far, far better than any arbitrary number anyone can quote. Mainly because it is too variable by how a given engraver holds his tools, ability to measure accurately a heel length by different people using various methods.
Grid up a graver and leave the heel grinds for last, meaning get your face to the grit you want as well as any other angles. Now put a heel on it using the minimum amount of strokes to produce a heel that you can see.
Try and cut on a scrap piece of metal and do enough cutting to remember exactly how that feels and how it cuts. What does it do with your normal hand position? Now take one more stroke per side on your hone (not running of course) or whatever you use for final polish. Cut another series of lines, curves and circles. Keep doing this and remember how the graver behaves with each change in heel length.
This process should tell you what you want to know far, far better than any arbitrary number anyone can quote. Mainly because it is too variable by how a given engraver holds his tools, ability to measure accurately a heel length by different people using various methods.
After the face is sharpened, I do 4 swipes on a 1200 grit lap with no power. That produces a heel about 1/4mm which is the size I use for nearly all of my work. It's really hard to measure the exact size, but when I hold it next to a ruler under the microscope it's about 1/4mm.
what system are you using to do your sharpening ? do you use coolant ? how much down pressure are you using ? the "barbs" you mention-- are they on the outside of the curve ? if so-- you're likely using a heel too long. short heels are best for tight turns. secondly-- you must make sure the main axis of the graver is perfectlly aligned with the direction of the cut. either instance can produce very rough edges. with a good sharpening system, once the preliminary shaping is done, a bit of touchup should not cause problems as you mention. the sharpening systems assure precise, repeatable geometry each and every time.
Choppers_rule
Elite Cafe Member
So, the depth of your cut is also determined by the size of the heel regardless how much psi you use, correct?
I use one heel size for all of my work. The only time I'd make a really huge heel would be if I were engraving something huge, which I don't do. Maybe some of the bike engravers can chime in. I'm guessing they use larger heels for the giant scrolls engraved on bike parts.
On GRS machines the PSI has nothing to do with cut depth. Someone who uses Lindsay or Enset can comment on those types.
On the Lindsay you can control the cuts with either different pressures or by adjusting the collar, less open for fine cutting, more open for heavier and deeper cutting. Most times I don't adjust anything but my own hand pressure on the handle. I think sometimes we try and get too mechanical and technical, wanting a tool to do the fine work we should be able to do any way.
Bill
Bill
Choppers_rule
Elite Cafe Member
So Bill, if you are increasing the pressure on your lindsay without increasing the size of the heel, can you cut deeper? Sam said on the GRS machine:the PSI has nothing to do with cut depth. I do too close the collar on my Lindsay for shading work.
Andrew Biggs
Moderator
Cutting deeper or lighter has nothing to do with what tool you use, the air pressure, size of heel or anything like that. All of that is irrelevant
You get a deep cut by making your angle of attack steeper. In other words, raising your wrist hand higher when you make the initial plunge into the metal. This makes you go down deeper into the metal.
Conversely..........Lighter cuts are made by lowering your wrist/hand when you plunge into the metal so you get a shallower cut
Try it on a scrap bit of metal and you'll see what I'm talking about
Cheers
Andrew
You get a deep cut by making your angle of attack steeper. In other words, raising your wrist hand higher when you make the initial plunge into the metal. This makes you go down deeper into the metal.
Conversely..........Lighter cuts are made by lowering your wrist/hand when you plunge into the metal so you get a shallower cut
Try it on a scrap bit of metal and you'll see what I'm talking about
Cheers
Andrew
Chujybear
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Pressure will drive you deeper if you are aimed deeper.
You steer the tool to where it is going to be in the cut then you pole through the material at that level - more pressure/power depending on how deep you are (in a single pass).
The heel changes the direction of the cutting tip, allowing you to raise your wrist slightly and thus protect your work from any inadvertent contact with the shank of the tool.
Too long a heel, and you basically back to not having a heel.
You steer the tool to where it is going to be in the cut then you pole through the material at that level - more pressure/power depending on how deep you are (in a single pass).
The heel changes the direction of the cutting tip, allowing you to raise your wrist slightly and thus protect your work from any inadvertent contact with the shank of the tool.
Too long a heel, and you basically back to not having a heel.
Chujybear
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Didn't mean to ape you there Andrew
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