Question: Length of heel

[CRW]

I have read somewhere on the forums that you need a longer heel for cutting straight lines, (borders, etc.).

I use the Lindsey sharpening system and normally I will back drag about 2 strokes across the 2000 stone to get the short heel. My question is, how many back drags should I use for a heel that is sufficient for a straight line or border since I have no way to measuring in degrees? Using the heel as I now have it I have trouble following the line. It could be my eyes. I was just wondering if anyone had any suggestions.
Thanks

 

[KCSteve]

Carl

I'd work on technique before trying to vary the graver. That way you don't have to switch gravers when you come to a turn.

The two main things I've found to help me are not cutting on the line and looking ahead. Both of them get mentioned often but sometimes it's these basic things we need to remember.

Looking ahead - if you're looking right at the tip of the graver you wander about and over correct. If you look up where you want the graver to go it tends to end up there. Just the way the eyes and mind work.

Cutting not exactly on the line: I think it's just about instinctive to set the point of the graver right on the center of the line. I've had better luck following the advice not to do that. I'll pick a side (for consistency) and set the very tip of the graver along that side of the line. I believe there are tips about this both in the Tips section and out in the main http:www.igraver.com page (we tend to forget all the neat stuff Sam put out there).

Good luck!

 

[Barry Lee Hands]

I have found as short a heel as possible works best.

 

[CRW]

Steve: I knew I had read something about this challenge, but didn't know where to look it up.
Thanks for leading me in the right direction. I will try all your suggestions and see which one does the best.

For straight lines I am using the Detail template on the graver with a very short heel. I suppose I just need to do a whole plate with straight lines and see if that will help me any.

Barry;
I use the Detail template 96 degree for the straight line attempts and a Universal template 123 for everything else. I would like to use it on the straight line, but just can't seem to follow my line. I do not use a scope just an Optivisor and reading glasses.

Thanks for the advice.

 

[pappy]

Carl,
When I first started out I made my heels fairly long. It will help you cut straight lines better and stops the depth control trouble.
Now that I have a lot more cutting experience, I make my heels very short.

Try a longer heel for a beginner, and as you get better, shorten it.

Hope I have been helpful!

pappy

 

[Sam]

My gravers all have heels around .4mm which is very small. I've not experienced any particular length that was more suitable for cutting straight lines. / ~Sam

 

[Marcus Hunt]

I'm with Sam on this. Heel length doesn't seem to have much effect. However, the wider geometries (e.g. 120º) are more difficult to control when cutting straight lines I find.

 

[CRW]

Pappy, Sam, and Marcus;

Thanks for the input of the masters, it is much appreciated.
Pappy, I have always used a short heal, I am now trying to vary the length of it a little. I will just have to experiment with it and see what works best for me.

Sam thanks, the measurement will be a big help, I will try it when I return from my trip to the Tennessee Mountains this week. Leaving this AM and will be back Monday.

Marcus;

I always use a 90 for the cutting of a straight line. I seem to wonder off to the left of the line. I have checked the graver geometry and everything looks good under a tool scope. I do not use a scope for engraving. I may have to start since my eyes are not what they used to be, but they are 20 20 at a distance, I just have to have some power to read or do up close work.

Talk to ya'll when I return.

 

[KCSteve]

Carl

If you're wandering off to the left on your straight lines try turning your vise a little more counter-clockwise.

Somewhere way back in the threads was one on what direction to cut in. It was noted that beginners tend to cut in one particular direction and fight with it. The experienced folks line up the cut with the natural line their hand / arm wants to go along. Just hold your graver so it's comfortable and see if it lays along your line or if it points off to one side.

I'll bet it's pointing a bit to the left.

 

[Sam]

I've noticed some students attempting to cut from south to north, which usually doesn't work very well. If you're right handed, cutting from east to west is the most natural and should give you the best results. Scribe your borders with a fine steel point and cut to the line and not on the line. I find cutting to the inside of the scribed line gives me the most accurate results.

 

[Barry Lee Hands]

Carl, another thing you can do to teach yourself about tool sharpening is a little trick to see what is your heel, and what is the draft.
A lot of engravers get confused about the effect of a long heel, when what they are really doing is adding draft behind the cutting edge.
With a properly sharpened graver is held properly only the front edge of the heel touches metal when you cut, and that is usually less that .0001. Any tool shaping behind that is just adding draft which gives you what a lathe operator calls "Front Clearance", which is critical to avoid chatter, burrs and tool breakage on a lathe, and on a graver also.
After all, an engraving block is just a simple spindle, and your arm just a tool post.
To prove this to yourself, simply black the bottom of the tool in question with a sharpie and make one short, simple cut, and then examine the heel under the microscope, and you will see what I mean.
The bright part its the only part that affects the cut, everything behind it is draft, to create "front clearance".
This is covered first day when I am entertaining students.