Question: Motorcyle aluminum parts engraving

[metalchipper]

Hello,

I have an opportunity to engrave some clutch covers for Harleys. This is for a local bike club so it will be their "colors" --logo. A new "polished" cover is not polished very well, showing pits and scratches. So my question is what is the process to get it ready for chrome plating? I have emailed the plating company that they use but have not heard back from them. [ just emailed them ]

So those of you that engrave bike parts what would you recommend?
1. what plating company do you use?
2. what type of paint do you recommend to fill in the cuts for highlights?
a glossy black epoxy of some sort maybe. I do not plan on using bright cuts, but deep straight walled cuts.
3. I think the platters use a heavy layer of copper to fill in the pits, am I correct on this?
4. How do you have them polished-plating and not ruin the engraving?

Thanks, Mark

 

[monk]

i don't think aluminum can be chrome plated. maybe anodized and highly polished. i think steel is first copper plated so the chrome will then plate to the copper. no plating will hide pits. your engraving, unless extremely fine, should show under the plating. there's a bike parts ( or used to be ) plating co. in paducah, ky. cant recall the co. name.

 

[Tira]

Hello Mark!

Here is an article I wrote about chrome in general a couple of years ago in the tips library: http://www.igraver.com/forum/showthread.php?t=637

Chrome is a very finicky thing. The best thing to do is interview the platers in your area and have a personal business relationship with them. There is no substitute for a plater who knows your needs and - more importantly - handles your parts literally with "kid gloves" once the parts are in his shop. I originally engraved some copper practice plates and dropped them off at 8 or so platers to see what happened. I use one and there is a back up plater if I'm in trouble, but otherwise I would not use the other 6. Some of this is due to the fact that an industrial plater is usually not set up for show chrome (read article) and also because you (or me) coming in with one or two parts occasionally does not represent a large client to most platers. Also, engraved parts take more time and attention than most platers are usually used to giving to a project. Most of the time they set the part in the tank and get back to it when then can. Engraved parts must be watched and if they are just left in the tank the engraving is filled in by the copper. Then the only way to fix it is to strip the part, buff off all the engraving and start again.

Any pits or scratches in the piece before (or after you finish) engraving will still be there and will be magnified. None of it will be magically "filled in" by the copper. I usually buy parts that are polished from HD in the plastic package that have not been touched so there are no scratches. If you have a problem with that then take it to the plater and have it polished to the point that the plater is ready to put it in the tank (mirror). After you get it back be extremely careful with it and mask it - try not to handle it much with your hands.

In some cases with restoration car parts I get a part that has been extremely pitted. In this case the plater will buff the part and then put on a thick layer of copper to fill in the pits (that haven't already been soldered). Then the copper layer will be brought up to a mirror polish. This works, but.... Any layer on the base metal, even though usually it may be cut through cleanly, may peel away from the base metal during engraving. When I get these types of parts it is because there is no other way to do them and the plater understands that the engraving may cause a larger problem if peeling occurs. Again, we have a great relationship and parts may go between us 2-3 times to get the desired finish/final restoration marks.

One other very important thing about platers... Have him call you when it is done so it is not hanging around his shop. The longer it hangs around and is moved from one shelf to another or from one area to another, the greater chance the piece will be dented/scratched/dinged after.

I've never used a paint to fill in after the engraving. Maybe someone has done this and can advise you on this point.

Some engravers don't want to deal with the chrome process and leave the parts in the natural polished state. It's another option.

Good luck!

 

[metalchipper]

It looks like I have opened a " chromed can of worms " .

Thanks Tira and Monk.






" If it was easy anybody could do it ", so I am dumb enough to try.:big grin:

 

[DakotaDocMartin]

i don't think aluminum can be chrome plated.

There are specialty shops all over the place that chrome aluminum parts. I've had it done before. The parts are polished and then plated with copper, nickel and then chrome.

 

[BrianPowley]

Tira is right....get to know that plater.
The shop I deal with specializes in "Show Chrome" (Some call it "Decorative Chrome") and I would caution the use of a plater that doesn't specialize in it.
The way I understand it, chrome shines or doesn't shine because of the surface underneath it.
If the surface is highly polished, you can expect it to shine. If it is bead blasted, it will look less radiant.
In some cases, it is a three step process---copper wash, nickel plate, chrome plate....and if the original surface is highly polished, the results are just stunning.
Copper and nickel will fill in, but only to a certain extent. It will not make those dings, bumps and scratches go away----it will magnify them!
On some pitted parts, I've actually inlaid lead (or iron) into the pit, sanded them down and engraved through them. (Careful---lead is as soft as pure gold)
Sometimes, filling in the pits with inlaid lead or iron is a lot easier than trying to sand down an entire part to remove them.
(Oh darn---there I go giving away my secrets again!)

 

[DDick]

Plating will not fill pits--all pits have to be removed from the base metal prior to any plating process. There are several procedures to prepare aluminum for Electro-plating one is the Zincate process and the other is Electro-less nickel. Either of these two coatings is the foundation for Electro-plating Aluminum. After the pre-coating the Aluminum part can then be directly plated with copper and then the copper can be buffed to a mirror finish then Bright Nickel plated and hit with a thin layer of Chromium. In some cases the part can be plated in Bright Nickel directly over the pre-coating then flash Chromium over the Bright Nickel. Bright Nickel plating baths have brighting and leveling agents in the bath to produce a mirror bright finish. The nickel produces the high lustre finish, the thin layer of Chromium is to put a barrier finish between the Nickel and the atmosphere, nickel will tarnish over a period of time Chromium is more inert to oxidation.

ddick

 

[Christopher Malouf]

I will third Tira's expert addition to this thread. I will add that copper plating can magically fill pits .... with a little work anyway . It certainly fills your engraving when put on too thick.

The plater can do multiple layers of copper with selective polishing before the next layer is applied. Pitting gone. Then do your engraving. After engraving, a flash copper layer then the nickel ... etc. etc.

This is a very expensive option I offer customers. Bikers generally can't afford it anyway but the gentleman motorcycle enthusiast involved with a restoration is generally interested.

Being up front with the customer requires giving them options:

1. Parts cost "X" amount to send out for pre-polishing 'cause I'm not in the polishing business.

2. Parts cost "X" amount more to have any pitting filled with copper prior to engraving. Eliminating this step runs the risk of parts looking like **** ... which I have sadly found is good enough for most people.

3. Final plating cost after engraving.

4. Add up the costs for #1-3 (tack on your profit) and that's how much it costs the customer BEFORE you even touch the part.

Either they don't care about cost, or hang up on you.


Of course there is rule #1 when doing motorcycle parts for alleged "clubs". It doesn't matter if it's a 1%er club, farm-league wannabe 1%er club or the holy roller ministries intimidating Granny in the name of God .... GET A 100% DEPOSIT UP FRONT. Good solid policy for true custom motorcycle work in this economy whether you choose to discriminate on affiliation or not.

p.s. I just read your PM ...

Give them the cost options. Tell them there may be pitting that shows through the chrome and if they are ok with that, just engrave it and send it out. If you can find a local plater or one close enough to drive to then call them. This is the part of the research you will need to do as I no longer do product endorsements, referrals or unsolicited critiques. Just do not use Brown's plating in Kentucky.

Yes it is a can of worms and big pain in the ass. New, unchromed, billet aluminum or decent die cast replacement parts will make the process a lot easier.


Later .... and good luck.

 

[metalchipper]

Thanks all,

Christopher, yes, thanks. Have you used any type of background paint, to fill the engraving, after plating?

That plater is the one the bike store uses, oh well.
I have two brolthers who are in clubs. They tell me that I can all ways does free engraving for them for them to show off. NOT!

 

[Christopher Malouf]

I do not use any paint. I don't like anything which can wash out.

In the past, I have used RBC color epoxy resins with problematic results. Even after undercutting the areas to be filled before choming, the fill does not tolerate the constant temperature changes and will eventually need to be re-colorfilled. I reserve color inlay for decorative parts only ... ie: mantle pieces or show bikes that don't get ridden.


Chris

p.s. One way to get customers to agree to using the plater you choose is that you can not guarantee your work otherwise.

 

[robertosilver]

engraving motorcycle parts

http://www.westcoastchrome.com/
Hi, metalchipper looks like this company can chrome your aluminum parts, also they can do the polishing according to the information shown in their web page.
About the black antique finish for your engraving I would suggest BLACK ANTIQUE PAINTING from Gesswein.com this a jewlery supply Co.
This is what I would do, first polish the parts then engrave them (pretty deep please) then buffing and chrome plate them.
After they come from the chome plating shop do the final antique with your BLACK ANTIQUE.
Saludos
robertosilver

 

[robertosilver]

engraving motorcyle parts

Hi, metachipper
Most aluminum parts for motorcyle do not need chrome plating, good polishing before engraving and buffing after engraving with final black antique painting will do a nice work.
Take a look to pictures in internet and you will see what I mean.
I have engrave those part before and they look real nice if the engraving is good I would suggest talking with your customer to save come trouble with the chrome plating.
If chrome plating is needed that can be done of course.
Saludos
robertosilver

Hello,

I have an opportunity to engrave some clutch covers for Harleys. This is for a local bike club so it will be their "colors" --logo. A new "polished" cover is not polished very well, showing pits and scratches. So my question is what is the process to get it ready for chrome plating? I have emailed the plating company that they use but have not heard back from them. [ just emailed them ]

So those of you that engrave bike parts what would you recommend?
1. what plating company do you use?
2. what type of paint do you recommend to fill in the cuts for highlights?
a glossy black epoxy of some sort maybe. I do not plan on using bright cuts, but deep straight walled cuts.
3. I think the platters use a heavy layer of copper to fill in the pits, am I correct on this?
4. How do you have them polished-plating and not ruin the engraving?

Thanks, Mark

 

[monk]

dakota doc: i've learned something new, thanks to you. i thought aluminum was not chrome platable. thanks for that one.

 

[tim halloran]

Metalchipper: The Plating Shop In Paducah Kentucky Is Browns Plating. They Have Been Doing It Forever And Specialize In Bike And Car Parts.

 

[metalchipper]

Thanks


Thank for all your help,
That is how this forum works.

But sad to say it is a moot point.
I quoted what I thought was a fair price for the engraving, a quess of plating cost, and the guy that just spent $25,000 on a new bike thought it was too much $ for him and the rest of the bikers to procede.

I guess I will stick to firearms engraving. :beat up::beat up:

Have a good day,
I have to get to work,

Mark

 

[Tira]

Mark, Don't be discouraged. Many bikers are in the same category. They will spend $5,000 on a custom paint job, but associate engraving with the "Things Remembered" variety of work. I probably have 8 out of every 10 quotes walk away not so much because of the engraving expense, but because they didn't plan on the cost of the strip/polish/rechrome or don't want to wait the 8-10 weeks for the part to work through the engraving and chrome shop. Some of the projects can run upwards of $1000 for chrome charges and, for whatever reason, many people won't get involved with that.