Doc Mark
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
I figured after being a member of FEGA for over 2 years, that I should take the leap and engrave at least one firearm! I decided to use my old CCW, an inexpensive Kel-Tec 9mm. It had the advantage of already being in my possession, unimportant if I screwed up big-time and most importantly, it has all flat surfaces.
The First Cardinal Rule in gun engraving (just as in medicine) is "DO NO HARM". So I kept the design a straight forward basic Classic Scroll with no background removal. Unfortunately, "Basic" does not mean "easy" in my hands. Needless to say, this engraving has more "elbows" than are on a statue of Shiva! The first big boo-boo was cutting the borders way too deep and wide. This then affected the scroll cutting when I approached the borders with the next curving line. I also found, as has been stated many times before, that cutting real firearm steel is not the same as mild steel practice plates. Although this particular gun was pretty easy to cut, there were several spots where it became "glass hard" and the graver began to slide. I particularly had trouble following my guide lines because the lines were too thick when I transfered them to the metal. I should have taken the time to run the hand drawings through a "Trace" program and vectorize them. I'll know better next time.
I also learned a lot about the grunt work involved with prepping the gun before starting the engraving. Thanks to all who helped me understand filling and finish work a little better. I thought that I had done an OK job until I saw it under the scope! The cold blue from Brownells that was recommended worked very well. You can't really tell in the photos of the final bluing due to the lighting but you can't tell by looking at the slide, which areas were not stripped and still had the original blue and which were cold blued.
In all, the assembled pistol looks pretty good, as long as you use Ron Smith's principle of viewing engraved firearms strictly in hand with no magnification. I would like to suggest the addition of an "Arm's Length and A Half Rule" also be mandatory.
Anyway, here is my first attempt, warts and all, please give your valued, honest critiques.
Mark
The First Cardinal Rule in gun engraving (just as in medicine) is "DO NO HARM". So I kept the design a straight forward basic Classic Scroll with no background removal. Unfortunately, "Basic" does not mean "easy" in my hands. Needless to say, this engraving has more "elbows" than are on a statue of Shiva! The first big boo-boo was cutting the borders way too deep and wide. This then affected the scroll cutting when I approached the borders with the next curving line. I also found, as has been stated many times before, that cutting real firearm steel is not the same as mild steel practice plates. Although this particular gun was pretty easy to cut, there were several spots where it became "glass hard" and the graver began to slide. I particularly had trouble following my guide lines because the lines were too thick when I transfered them to the metal. I should have taken the time to run the hand drawings through a "Trace" program and vectorize them. I'll know better next time.
I also learned a lot about the grunt work involved with prepping the gun before starting the engraving. Thanks to all who helped me understand filling and finish work a little better. I thought that I had done an OK job until I saw it under the scope! The cold blue from Brownells that was recommended worked very well. You can't really tell in the photos of the final bluing due to the lighting but you can't tell by looking at the slide, which areas were not stripped and still had the original blue and which were cold blued.
In all, the assembled pistol looks pretty good, as long as you use Ron Smith's principle of viewing engraved firearms strictly in hand with no magnification. I would like to suggest the addition of an "Arm's Length and A Half Rule" also be mandatory.
Anyway, here is my first attempt, warts and all, please give your valued, honest critiques.
Mark
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