"new" transfer method

Grayson

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Aug 8, 2009
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Well, it's a new method to me, even though it has been on YouTube for 6 months or more. I don't recall seeing it here, so I'll post it. I have often had trouble with image transfers, but this worked very well the very first time I tried it. The target is a gold-anodized Aluminum screw cap for a fly rod (I build bamboo fly rods), and the image is of an adult mayfly. The method: 1) print the image or Xerox it with a dry ink machine; 2) paint the clean target with a water-based polyurethane varnish; 3) press the print onto the wet varnish and smooth it down; 4) let it really dry; 5) soak the paper with a damp cloth and gently rub away the paper, leaving the varnish.

I attribute my difficulty with other transfer methods to not getting exactly the correct degree of "stickiness" in the medium, or not burnishing firmly enough. That does not matter here, because you put the paper onto wet varnish and smooth it down with your finger. The transfer is not perfect, but the lines are very fine - finer than I have been able to attain with other transfers. Even I can pencil or scratch in what is missing. The varnish is "gummy" to cut through, but it is not "flaky."

That varnish is just what I had on hand. The paper is typical Staples supply.

The mayfly is the first decent drawing I ever made. I invite your comments; You need not be kind - just polite. JJ Roberts made me draw it P9270320.JPG P9270321.JPG ; THANK YOU, JJ!
 

Grayson

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Aug 8, 2009
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If you must call me professor, please spell it correctly: perfesser. Many thanks, JJ!
-Grayson
 

Grayson

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Rob,
Um ... I'm not sure how to answer. The toner fluid and ink cartridge are inside the Xerox machine that produces the print. I never touch the toner fluid; I just coat the metal with water-based polyurethane and slap the print face down on that. Is that helpful?
Grayson
 

monk

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looks pretty neat. why not add a bit of detail to the segments. just a thought. btw- what is dry in toner ?
 

Sinterklaas

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Does it flake when engraving? I have recently brought a laserprinter.
And the transfers are perfect using acetone. And baking paper.
But to prevent rubbing of I tried some varnishes. 2 flaked off when engraving. The 3rd a spray did not. But I do not like to spray because it gets also on places where I don't want it.
 

Grayson

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Aug 8, 2009
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Monk, that's a good point about the segments. Thanks! The Xerox (actually Cannon) copier I used has a dry ink cartridge and toner fluid. I specified that to distinguish it from an ink jet printer.
Sinterklaas, I cut some of it within 4 hours of rubbing off the paper. It was a little gummy, but I could still see where I was cutting. I must be away from the bench for a few days (Son's wedding today!). I hope it does not become flaky as it dries harder, but I will see and report if it does. I had some good luck with acetone and parchment paper on steel, but the method seemed to fail on Aluminum. I do not understand why, maybe it was the surface texture. The fact that this paper is opaque makes positioning trickier than with plastic film or parchment. I will try this method with some tracing paper, too.
 

Grayson

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Aug 8, 2009
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If you put a drop of water on the remains of the paper, it reduces the drag on the varnish, and reduces the loss of lines adjacent to the cutting. Better still, it makes the lines crystal clear!
 

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