No boarders

[Cody]

I was practicing yesterday on this capper and decided to try going without a boarder. Being boarderless doesn't look TOO bad on the back but the front would have certainly benefited from a boarder IMO. Perhaps the difference lies in the fact that the back has a soft rounded edge and the front has a hard square edge??? A boarder on the back would have just magnified the fact that the finial veers off to the left and is WAY off center .

Cody

 

[Tim Wells]

I like your design. I think you are right about those borders. A lot of that kind of stuff most folks wouldn't even notice unless you mention it. Putting a border around the back would be like "mentioning it".

Nice job!

 

[Andrew Biggs]

Hi Cody

Beautiful Job. I love the leopard. A very clever design incorporating the latch mechanisim. It suits the Ted Cash Capper really well. As for the borders. It's my own opinion but I think the edge of the metal is good enough.

Best regards
Andrew Biggs

 

[KSnyder]

Cody, nice work,its a great capper.
Kent

 

[LRB]

Cody, for the time period you are working in, and the items you have there, I wouldn't change a thing. Are you using a power graver, or hand chaseing?

 

[SharpGraver]

I think your layouts are really appealing at least to my eyes. I don't exactly know what a capper is but your work looks very good to me.

 

[Cody]

Thanks for the comments and kind words. It was somewhat of a pain to cut as it's made from very light brass and offers very little support. Was kinda like engraving something mounted on a wool blanket. I couldn't come up with a way to hold the catch to do the leopard so I had to either cut directly toward or away from the pivot, or into the catch pin otherwise it would swing away.

LRB, this was cut with a gravermach useing a 120deg graver. Just got it a month or so ago. Is it ever COOL.

Dave, a 'capper' holds and dispenses percussion caps for a caplock muzzleloader

Cody

 

[Tim Wells]

I think I understand that this has a hinged lid that swings open? One way to keep it shut is to find a good spot and hot glue it so it won't move. When you're done a little rubbing alcohol will make it come right off with no damage.

I really like the piece. That would look real good laying next to a Dragoon colt engraved in a similar fashion in a photo.

 

[Jim-Iowa]

Cody, I also have a Capper like that and I will one day give it the treatment. I dug it out a few weeks ago and polished it up, thats a lot of area that just begs to be embellished.
I think Tims idea of the hot glue to hold the catch makes a lot of sense. In fact I would never have thought to engrave the catch. The leopard is cool.
Those are pretty thin as you say. I wonder if one could pack it full of modeling clay to support it while engraving to stop the back or front from flexing?

 

[Tim Wells]

There are some posts I think either here or Steve Lindsay's forum about this very subject of filling cavities and backing up thin stuff. I'd look into it so your work doesn't get boogered up from the bounce.

 

[JJ Roberts]

Cody...You are on the right track. Without a border your designs stand on their own. Keep us posted with more pictures. Keep up the good work.

Yours truly,
JJ Roberts-Manassas, VA
School of Artistic Engraving

 

[Dave London]

Cody
Very nice work dont need no stinking boarders Going to buy a new smoke pole soon. Dave

 

[Doc Mark]

Cody,

I've engraved some thin materials and found the grey thermoplastic sold at GRS mounted directly on the ball, or on a handmade holder, works very well for "backing-up" flexible metals. This is good for smaller items that can be put into very hot water or the microwave for a few seconds to soften the plastic after the engraving is finished. This makes removal of the thin object easier and lessens the chance of bending the metal.

Keep up the good work,

Mark

 

[Smallpatch]

Cody,

You just amaze me. I especially love that leopard head "biting" the catch.

Just a tip for holding these things. I don't own an engraver's vise or ball or the like.
Here's what I do. Use standart Bondo (for repairing dents in fenders. Mix up a batch, slather it on the edge of an appropriately sized piece of wood, stick the item in place and let it harden. Use the piece of wood to clamp in your vise and engrave away.
When you have it all finished, burnished, sanded, what ever, just heat it up with a propane torch and it will pop right off clean as a whistle.

I know every one of these fine engravers on this board are having a heart attack righ now, but it sure works on primitive stuff like patchboxes and inlays, and lock plates.

Hope this helps.

 

[sam]

I've engraved dozens of high-end knives in Bondo fixtures. Great stuff. GRS Thermo-Loc is faster and easier though.