Polishing after engraving

[Goldfinger]

I'll confess I'm not an engraver--but I've become something of an aficionado (surely one of the most underappreciated arts) and have sneaked in.

I wonder if the forum has a consensus what methods are acceptable for polishing out surface scratches on a flat jewelry item (18kt gold) without damaging fine hand engraving (a ribbon-cut monogram)?

I was warned not to let anyone machine polish as it will round the edges of the engraving. There are also a couple of slightly deeper scratches not touching the engraving I thought might be suitable for laser welding, but I've read that laser welding can also round nearby edges.

And does anyone know someone in New York who can be trusted with this work? I've received two recommendations for Marco Delano Polishing on 47th Street, however from speaking to him I believe he will use a buffing wheel.

 

[monk]

the method would depend on how deep the scratches, as well as how close to the actual engraving they are. without a good closeup foto, not sure how, or even if i would attempt this

 

[Brian Marshall]

Find someone who actually KNOWS how to use tiny scrapers, burnishers, handmade sanding sticks, very fine abrasives stones and fine rubber abrasive sticks and small wheels... not gonna be easy - but can be done... usually...

No image of the damage?

 

[Dave London]

Tiffany and Co. ? MTC

 

[mdengraver]

https://jooltool.com/products/scratch-erasers

 

[mdengraver]

Jewelry applications: Excellent for “wiping off” or “blending in” scratches and scuff marks on precious metals. Also great for removing porosity & parting lines in jewelry castings. Does not remove your precious material. Instead, the abrasive technology burnishes and spreads it along the surface. To better understand, compare it to spreading frosting on a cake. Use the coarse grades to quickly take down heavy scratches and the finer grades for light scratches and achieving pre-polished, satin finishes.

Automotive and Woodworking applications: This abrasive is ideal for deburring and polishing any metal alloy as well as many plastics and composites. Perfect for smoothing the heel of turning tools (to avoid bruising the wood during turning). It’s made of aluminum oxide impregnated in a non-woven web, which resists loading and has an extremely long life. It also resists smearing and minimizes heat buildup on the work piece.


For the best value and convenience, choose the "MOUNTED" option. The abrasives will be setup for you before being shipped, ready to use upon arrival.
Available in: COARSE, MEDIUM, FINE AND VERY FINE GRADES.
* Not recommended for carbide (high-carbon) metals, lapidary or glass.

** Certain images contain a digital representation and may differ slightly from actual items.

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[Brian Marshall]

Interesting... new technology... I will have to try this one out for some things.

I doubt, however, that when the scratch is deep enough to require the "healing" that we have traditionally done by burnishing, scraping and limited area polishing - that a tool this large would do the job - without blurring the engraving. The point is not to treat the engraving as just a deeper "scratch".

The watch case shown probably has all of the tiny scratches and abrasion that any polished piece of metal collects with time and usage.

Relatively uncontrolled machine driven burnishing right on top of a hand engraved area does not seem like a wise idea to me?

For unengraved worn watch cases and such, it should work quite well... dunno until I try one.

Brian
instructor@jewelryaretschool.com

 

[allan621]

I deal with surface scratches all the time. There are two problems with using a buffing wheel. The first, of course is if the person is heavy handed it takes a lot of the engraving into the wheel. The second is, even if the buffer is using sparingly, it will round off the edges of the cut, giving it a worn look.

The best thing to do for flat pieces with engraving, is to use a polishing cloth, a bit of lighter fluid and two kinds of polishing rouge.

Place the polishing cloth on a flat surface and douse it with a few sprays of lighter fluid ( Ronsonol - it comes in a yellow plastic container ). Just keep in mind the rouge is going to bleed through to the other side. The flat surface should be something that can be easily cleaned.

On one side of the cloth rub the scratch remover rouge. Rub the item to be polished back and forth. It should get hazy. If you're not used to this remember to be gentle until you get the hang of it.

Use a soft tissue with a drop of lighter fluid on it and rub the rouge gently off. Take a look at it, if there are still scratches rub it a few more times. Repeat as necessary, but don't try to get it perfect, just so the scratches are harder to see.

Then spray the cloth with a bit more lighter fluid, and in spot with no scratch remover rouge, use the polishing rouge. Rub it four or five times, take it off gently with the kleenex and have a look. If its not quite right, do it again but lightly. Don't overdo it.

This should leave the engraving intact.

Allan

 

[Goldjockey]

Would think that in this case, carefully working with a small mirror finished burnisher, directly across and diagonally across the scratch, changing directions often would be they only way to 'erase' or minimize the scratch without affecting surrounding engraving.

As others have pointed out, abrasives of any kind will likely remove and/or smear engraving in the surrounding areas.

A photo of the affected area would be extremely helpful in assessing the damaged area, and making good recommendations.

 

[John B.]

I agree with Goldjockey.
A scratch, when freshly made is usually a small "ditch" with the metal displaced to the edge and above the normal surrounding surface.
The worst thing you can do is to erase this raised metal by using abrasives or scrapers.
Use good magnification to find where the metal is raised beside the "ditch."
Then using a highly polished burnisher and coming in at an angle, roll the raised metal back into the "ditch."
Further CAREFUL burnishing and micro polishing of the area will cover a lot of the damage.

 

[Sinterklaas]

These yellow polishing cloths from Japan are the best. It will get you to a high polish. No need to use rouge or other polishing compounds on this cloth.

https://www.riogrande.com/searchres...sort=relevancy&layout=card&numberOfResults=36

When burnishing you can also mess up the edges. Dont burnish near edges or over the engraving. You will rub the metal in to the engraved line. Just like burnishing a scratch.

1 Burnish what you safely can. With high polished burnisher.
2 Sand with very fine sandpaper if necessary. (1200grit then 2500grit)
3 Use magical Japanese polishing cloth.
4 Profit.

 

[Omar Haltam]

a picture of the ring would help..

 

[mdengraver]

Interesting... new technology... I will have to try this one out for some things.

I doubt, however, that when the scratch is deep enough to require the "healing" that we have traditionally done by burnishing, scraping and limited area polishing - that a tool this large would do the job - without blurring the engraving. The point is not to treat the engraving as just a deeper "scratch".

The watch case shown probably has all of the tiny scratches and abrasion that any polished piece of metal collects with time and usage.

Relatively uncontrolled machine driven burnishing right on top of a hand engraved area does not seem like a wise idea to me?

For unengraved worn watch cases and such, it should work quite well... dunno until I try one.

Brian
instructor@jewelryaretschool.com

Brian you may be correct on this but the jool tool allows you to control the speed of the machine for carefully controlled burnishing in accessible areas without removing any metal using the magic erase disc.

 

[SamW]

Don't forget that burnishing can cause galling of the metal (more scratches to get rid of) so be sure to use a lube like Never-Seez. I have used this for burnishing aluminum, which galls very easily, with great success.

 

[JJ Roberts]

Sam,Where can you buy Never-Seeze? J.J.

 

[SamW]

JJ, auto parts stores, hardware stores...there are a few brands of anti-seize lubes available. I prefer the Never-seeze brand because it has no odor whereas some can smell like differential lube which I don't care for, at least not on my engraving efforts. Permatex brand I found to be smelly.

 

[JJ Roberts]

Thanks Sam I've been using Simichrome polish but see if I find the other polish. J.J.

 

[SamW]

JJ-here are the two brands I have on hand...the Never-Seez I have had for decades.

 

[Brian Marshall]

Ahhh.... the spelling... Never Seeze ?

 

[Archie Woodworth]

Just remember that you are rubbing powdered aluminum or copper/brass (depending on which version you are using) into whatever you are burnishing ... steel might be OK but precious metals might respond with undesirable results. Wheel bearing grease as a lube is also a safe bet. While not the same as removing a dent/scratch from the front side of an item, I've removed numerous dents from propeller spinner and leading edges on airplane using using just a ball peen hammer and some wheel bearing grease.