Questions on Colt SAA

[Brian Hochstrat]

I am getting ready to start on my Colt SAA for Reno, and I am trying to think of the pitfalls before they happen. So here are a couple questions that you guys that have cut these before may be able to answer.

1. Are there any problems with the hammers being hard? Do you have to anneal them back some? and if so, is there any way to lessen the slag caused by the anealling process.

2. The ivory handles that are on it, fit about 1/16" proud to the frame. Should they be flushed smooth with the frame? And if so anything I should keep in mind when sanding the ivory, other than dust?

3. When preping the metal are there any modifictions that are typically done, such as crisping up the edges? Do you leave the screw on the frame alone, or can they by flushed with the frame?

4. Anything else I should know that I am not smart enough to ask?

Also being in Nowhere Idaho, there are no good gunsmiths here, so I will have to disassemble it myself. So, if there is any suprises I should be aware of, or trick to aid in the process PLEASE speak up. Any advise would be appreciated. Its a beautiful pistol and the engraving part won't be a problem, but I would like to do everything else that does'nt involve engraving well too, to ensure it will be a top end piece. Thanks Brian

 

[Tim Wells]

When I think of a Colt SAA two names spring immediately to mind. Ron Nott and Mike Dubber; they would have all the info you need. I think Ron does some of his own smithing too if I remember right.

The hammers are hard and the grips should be flush, not proud. Ivory dust is just bone dust (protien) and stinks like the dickens. Pearl dust is the one you really don't want in your lungs at all. As for annealing a hammer I think a carbide graver would do the job without it but if you anneal it you'll have to heat threat and temper it afterwards. Turnbulls does all that. I've heard sometimes cylinders are hard too; don't anneal the frame as it will warp.

 

[pilkguns]

Brian, I'm leaving shortly but wanted to answer this qhickly, or at least respond if not answer. You are asking some deep questions that need complicated answers, far more so than is answerable on the Forum. This is based on knowing what kind of work you are doing. If you were just doing traditonal Colt style patterns, it would'nt matter. But if you are planning to do some fine engraving like you are capable of, then you need the metal prepped properly, edges square, screws regulated, letters crisp, etc.

I cannot encourage you strongly enough to spend the time to take the gun to someone who can show you how to do these things and what all is needed and expected. If you have to drive somewhere and spend 3 or 4 days, consider it money and time well spent. Otherwise, you may end of with a Van Gough painting on a rusty tin can, something beautiful that you cannot sell for its real value because the canvas underneath has some glaring defiecency. Like I said, if it was a plain SAA pattern, it would'nt really matter, but if you have plans for spectacular engraving, then you HAVE to get the metal right first.

 

[Brian Hochstrat]

Scott and Tim, Thanks for the advice, Scott that is exactly what I am trying to avoid, doing a nice engraving on a poorly prepped gun. So, taking your advice, I did some calling around today and I have found a gunsmith who is'nt to far, that seemed to know his business, I am going travel down tomorrow and check it out. Thanks again, Brian