ok, i've never heard of this. sounds interesting. who knows about this ? i'll try anything at least once. thanx
radiused flat graver
- Thread starter monk
- Start date
coincutter
Elite Cafe Member
simple
take flat
put it in a hand piece
strop it back on 2500 grit just like doing a regular heel
lift up the back side at the end of the stroke to put a radius grind on the heel - ie rounded
all my flats and knife gravers are done this way at various degrees for carving or engraving or lettering
take flat
put it in a hand piece
strop it back on 2500 grit just like doing a regular heel
lift up the back side at the end of the stroke to put a radius grind on the heel - ie rounded
all my flats and knife gravers are done this way at various degrees for carving or engraving or lettering
Radiused flat gravers are especially nice for cutting script lettering. I keep the radius very close to the end of my graver (about 1/4mm) and rock it between 10 and 20º.
coincutter
Elite Cafe Member
Funny how few people know the advantages of using flats and large knife gravers to do the majority of the work. I use a v graver about 20 percent of the time now that i have tweaked my big knives.
Essentially two v gravers with a flat in the middle.
Essentially two v gravers with a flat in the middle.
Tell me more about your knife gravers. I have the feeling I'm missing out on something good.
radiused flat gravers
thanks a heap. when i first saw this mentioned, i stupidly thought the radius went the short way. hey, we were all born naked and rather dim witted. i'm still rather dim.
thanks a heap. when i first saw this mentioned, i stupidly thought the radius went the short way. hey, we were all born naked and rather dim witted. i'm still rather dim.
coincutter
Elite Cafe Member
Sam
I use old mullers back from the days of silver wiggle work - absolutely huge by compaison of modern gravers
cut the shanks down and chuck them up in my classic
the knife gravers are probably 1/8th to 3/8th wide - i sharpen them up the sides using Lindsays method and then radius the lower heel - it takes some work to do them - its an under the scope hand process to get all the facets lined up. So I end up with a graver that cuts left right across and hold so to speak. In short, I don't spend a lot of time changing blades whether I am engraving or carving. Nice thing is that they will cut a wide swath, arc or any other path and never kick up a burr. Now that i have switched to the dead blow tungsten piston they work much better than before and I can rip though projects much quicker.
All of my flats save a few are radius heels. Gives the davantage of being able to cut cleanly leaving a polished surface behind and most wonderful for carving coins as it affords a built in fulcrum and a graver that doesnt dive to china. Some of these flats are 1/3 the width of a nickel. They cut lettering of any size very nicely as I have ground a 120 to 160 side slant on them. I think you can see the possibilities for dimensional work. I reserve a few with 90 degree sides for those areas which require a traditional treatment.
I use old mullers back from the days of silver wiggle work - absolutely huge by compaison of modern gravers
cut the shanks down and chuck them up in my classic
the knife gravers are probably 1/8th to 3/8th wide - i sharpen them up the sides using Lindsays method and then radius the lower heel - it takes some work to do them - its an under the scope hand process to get all the facets lined up. So I end up with a graver that cuts left right across and hold so to speak. In short, I don't spend a lot of time changing blades whether I am engraving or carving. Nice thing is that they will cut a wide swath, arc or any other path and never kick up a burr. Now that i have switched to the dead blow tungsten piston they work much better than before and I can rip though projects much quicker.
All of my flats save a few are radius heels. Gives the davantage of being able to cut cleanly leaving a polished surface behind and most wonderful for carving coins as it affords a built in fulcrum and a graver that doesnt dive to china. Some of these flats are 1/3 the width of a nickel. They cut lettering of any size very nicely as I have ground a 120 to 160 side slant on them. I think you can see the possibilities for dimensional work. I reserve a few with 90 degree sides for those areas which require a traditional treatment.
quickcut07
Elite Cafe Member
To use a phrase i heard a lot in my life and a few times here. Possible a picture could could help cut a thousand words. I thought I was following you, but made a wrong turn somewhere. Your gravers definatly have my interest. Just finished polishing afew up.
coincutter
Elite Cafe Member
ill see if i can get something shot
pretty busy with alot of other things but its really not that hard
put your flat in a fixture
reference the flat to the diamond
rotate left then right to grind (open up ) the 90 degree side to a wider angle
or just buy one predone its a knife graver been around for ever
pretty busy with alot of other things but its really not that hard
put your flat in a fixture
reference the flat to the diamond
rotate left then right to grind (open up ) the 90 degree side to a wider angle
or just buy one predone its a knife graver been around for ever
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