What type of stainless would you use for jewelry?

[JNocktonick]

Hello all,

I'm a goldsmith looking to start some new projects and delve into engraving and inlay on stainless steel, but I'm finding the sheer number of different alloys to be a bit overwhelming and confusing. I am wanting something that has high resistance to corrosion, as I would like to create something that takes minimal care and will hold up against the elements. (Seawater for surfers, sweat, moisture, etc.)

I have no issues cutting the 400 series, I have GRS equipment and am not new to metalwork or engraving. I attempted some designs on 304 steel and took a rest after chipping my graver for the 4th time. I have no experience with engraving or piercing it, but I heard 904l is pretty nice as far as resistance to the elements goes.

I have thumbed through multiple posts on the forum, some had very valuable insight, others got me a little confused. I have heard of the difficulties folks have with getting clean cuts in 904l and have seen it is not for beginners.

If you were making a wearable piece for someone with these specifications in mind, what would you choose to work in?

Additionally, I have had difficulty finding a distributor who can get me smaller quantities of 904l. I figured maybe trying each out would get me somewhere in knowing what I am able to cut, or at least afford me some practice. Any advice there would be much appreciated as well.

Thanks for your time!

 

[monk]

here's a p,artial answer: my local scrapyard gets a large variety of ss. most in quite useable sheet sizes. the prices are vastly cheaper than getting tthe stuff thru metal retailers.. this is also true of most other metals. i have made mostly pendants, bracelets, as well as buckles with the stuff.b
the ss comes from a local company that makes panels for various appliances. all the stuff is a great thickness for jewelry except buckles. nobody that got the bracelets has complained about discoloration. it all cuts well, but i don't know the specific alloy. that it is used for ss panels, others may know the alloy. all of the stuff i've gotten has surface finishes that are ready to layout & cut.

 

[JNocktonick]

Hey Monk, thanks so much for that great reply. I'm always in the market for cheap practice materials as well as upcycleable scrap. I'll definitely get over to the yard to see what I can find.
Maybe the internet got me a little spooked about the longevity of SS with normal wear. If your clients haven't had issues, it is possible I'm fussing too much. Much appreciated!

 

[papart1]

Kitchen auctions OR regular? auctions with resterrant equipment is a good/excellant place to look for stainless. If there is just few pieces at the gavel it'll be cheap. I for instance went to a auction and pd 50 for a 12' long range hood, 316 food grade. GOTTA sharp stuff to work it

 

[Travis Fry]

Knifemakers tend to use 416 almost exclusively for guards and bolsters and such because it's easier to work and holds up well. 410 for folder liners, mostly because 416 is hard to find in those dimensions. I'd avoid 300 series like a bad cliche, though it tends to have more corrosion resistance. However, unless you're actively trying for corrosion, 416 should hold up very well. Your time is the most expensive part of any of this, so to me it makes sense to get the right stuff even if you pay for it than to get free materials that are either sub-optimal or unidentifiable just to save a few bucks.

 

[monk]

Hey Monk, thanks so much for that great reply. I'm always in the market for cheap practice materials as well as upcycleable scrap. I'll definitely get over to the yard to see what I can find.my blacksmithery
Maybe the internet got me a little spooked about the longevity of SS with normal wear. If your clients haven't had issues, it is possible I'm fussing too much. Much appreciated!

there are those that may actually lose money by wasting time at a junk yard. thank god i'm not so busy that i forgo all my other joys. the yard also feeds my needs for blacksmithery. i'm 100% dedicated to the art of engraving. i have many passions. most earn me money, all bring rewards that cant be put in a bank.

 

[JNocktonick]

Knifemakers tend to use 416 almost exclusively for guards and bolsters and such because it's easier to work and holds up well. 410 for folder liners, mostly because 416 is hard to find in those dimensions. I'd avoid 300 series like a bad cliche, though it tends to have more corrosion resistance. However, unless you're actively trying for corrosion, 416 should hold up very well. Your time is the most expensive part of any of this, so to me it makes sense to get the right stuff even if you pay for it than to get free materials that are either sub-optimal or unidentifiable just to save a few bucks.

Great information here, thanks Travis. I really enjoy cutting into 400. If I don't need to deal with the headaches to ensure my work will hold up over time, I would definitely prefer that route. Your comment about time being my most expensive part really puts things into perspective as well.

Do you have any suggestions for 410 or 416 distributors? I've been looking online, but so far no luck in the thickness I'm interested in.

 

[JNocktonick]

there are those that may actually lose money by wasting time at a junk yard. thank god i'm not so busy that i forgo all my other joys. the yard also feeds my needs for blacksmiyhery. i'm 100% dedicated to the art of engraving. i have many passions. most earn me money, all bring rewards that cant be put in a bank.

This makes sense. I will proceed with caution. Haha. I don't plan on doing a wide array of work in steel right now, and I don't have much in the means of equipment for refinishing scrap, but it would be good to get my feet wet and learn what I can expect to find.

 

[Travis Fry]

Do you have any suggestions for 410 or 416 distributors? I've been looking online, but so far no luck in the thickness I'm interested in.

Jantz Knife Supply, New Jersey Steel Baron, and USA Knifemaker all have it in stock, as does Tru Grit Abrasives. I've dealt with them all for over a decade, would recommend them all, and tend to pick between them based on who has what I need in stock at the best price at the time I need it. I listed them in order of how well I know them personally rather than by price (which I really didn't pay attention to, and varies). Hopefully one of them can help you out.

As an aside, if you don't have much in the realm of equipment for finishing, you might want to have the 416 surface ground. NJSB offers that for sure, the rest I don't think do but could be wrong. 410 sheet usually comes pretty clean. I'm actually cutting some 410 from Jantz now, and while it isn't as nice to cut as mild, it's still pretty nice to cut.