White Micarta vs. Ivory

[Rick50]

I realize that using white micarta in lieu of real ivory for engraving is not the "puriest" way. I'm curious tho if white micarta is acceptable for inlay and engraving? Has anyone used it? For small work, I imagine tagua is more acceptable?

 

[Steve Adams]

Hi Rick,
I don't think my email about the ivory/micarta comaprrison got through to you. I just wanted to say that I have not carved micarta, but found the ivory nice to carve and easy to finish. The slight grain was not a major problem. I am looking forward to using it again, as well as some micarta. Eventually I'll post some results on micarta. Steve Adams

 

[Rick50]

Hi Steve,
I appreciate your input and will look for your future post on the use of micarta

 

[Dulltool]

I had a pair of deep yellow micarta for my Colt saa. It's really nice to work with. It sands and polishes great.

Dennis

 

[mikekoller]

Ivory is more expensive than Micarta that we know, but do you find that you get less for your time when using Micarta?

 

[Crazy Horse]

I'd like to know where you can acquire "Ivory Micarta" or something similar in a thickness suitable for making and carving/engraving handgun grips? There are several dealers who supply this item for knife slabs and scales, but I haven't seen any with a thickness over 3/8". Any suggestions???

 

[El Dorado]

Midway sells preformed micarta for many handgun grips.
www.midwayusa.com

 

[Sandy]

There is a company Bar S Grips that makes Tru Ivory you can buy them already to go onto the pistol or buy raw matrial and make your own. They make grips for Ruger, Colt SAA, Colt Clones and Bond Arms Derringer. They are in Brownells catalog or on ther web site. This is really net stuff. Works up pretty good. Hope this helps.
http://www.truivory.com/


Sandy

 

[monk]

yes, ole buddy. just epoxy some of this stuff together for thicker slabs. one nice thing about this compared to real ivory, the micarta doesn't crack or craze with humidity changes. i've done a bit of scratch work on it and it isn't as tricky as ivory. ivory has a grain to it like wood, and can cause problems.

 

[Rick50]

Hey Monk...
What's your opinion about MikeKoller's remarks about "do you find that you get less for your time when using Micarta?"

 

[monk]

the very cost of the material is a factor right off the bat. there is a "romance" factor associated with ivory. some are willing, even want to pay for that. as far as the work goes, for me if i do say 10 hours on ivory or 10 on micarta. labor is labor. ivory is a bit trickier to work. i might charge a little more for the ivory but not that much more. but then i realize there's lots of people reading this probably wanting to tar and feather me !that's ok, we all have different ways or magic formulas for nailing down a price. and if you don't have and use an actual "formula" for pricing your work, chances are you aint charging enough !! you must never forget 2 things: you're an artist and a business operator ! jm2cw

 

[mikekoller]

thanks monk... I was not trying to stir anything up (especially the tar and feathers).

 

[monk]

i was really kidding. there is a great spread amongst the engraving community as to fees charged. the wise engraver knows the time she or he takes to do a job. you will keep a list of all materials and expenses incurred in the execution of the job. rent, mortgage, mileage,time with the client, utilities, etc. failure to accurately list all this surely means you are cheating yourself. some newbies will spend an hour or more with a client. they may spend 3 or 4 hours developing a basic drawing and transferring it to the piece. and engrave for 7 or 8 hours. and never think to charge for their time spent with the client or the drawing time.