whiting up the work

[MichaelBaer]

Some time ago I ran out of Chinese White from the jewelry jobber and needed some right away.I went to the local art supply store and bought some in a tube.I forget the brand name.It worked fine and the white dried out in the tube before the next job.I bought another tube and had the bright idea to squeeze it all into a small cup.It dried out but I would just moisten one end of an eye make up sponge commandeered from my wife`s make up kit.(these sponges are available at the big box stores and your marriage will run smoother if you buy your own).The last of the last product ran out and I bought another tube.This one is/was named Van Gogh.(+++108 lot # 8481).The work was cutting the name of a start up railroad outfit near Silverton,CO and the year into a polished railroad spike.I started to white up the work and the product behaved strangely.I should have quit trying when I saw that it strung out like cheese in a melt sandwich.After wasting an hour trying this and that I gave up and went to get another brand.
Fair Warning fellow engravers

 

[monk]

the chinese white, or whatever it is that was in the tube will sometimes not adhere well to highly polished surfaces. i found no favor with the stuff when i first used it.use the forum search bar. mike cirelli concocted a potion that works really well (at least for me). it takes transfers nicely, and will take direct draw on the part. during the engraving, it doesn't flake or smear and vanish. i'd share the formula, but have lost track of it over time. some use china white and love it. like any technique, one must learn the beast to control it. if you try the "cirelli sauce", be sure to give it some time to dry.

 

[Native-engraver]

I use China White and I find it works well. To get it to adhere to polished surfaces sometimes I use 2000 grit emery paper to "rough" up the metal slightly, but most of the time I don't find this is necessary. I use China White from a tube and water it down, keeping it a bit thick, and apply it with my finger, then draw with a 10H pencil or apply a inkjet design printed on baking paper.

 

[FANCYGUN]

Mike
Try some white skuffkote shoe polish like nurses use to use for their white shoes
Marty

 

[FANCYGUN]

Ray Phillips at ngraver has a good white layout fluid also thats what inhave use over the years hate china white

 

[sam]

at one time i was using white shoe polish like nurses use. that was 30+ years ago. might be worth trying.

 

[diandwill]

I buy the cheapest flat white spray paint, usually $2-3/ can. It works fine, and as long as you clean the nozzle keeps indefinitely.

 

[tsterling]

Am I the only one who uses white permanent felt tip markers (like Sharpie brand)? Goes on easy, no mess, dries fast, write on it with pencil, no smears, remove with solvent...

 

[mitch]

Am I the only one who uses white permanent felt tip markers (like Sharpie brand)? Goes on easy, no mess, dries fast, write on it with pencil, no smears, remove with solvent...

i've had pretty good luck with the Sharpie white "MeanStreak" permanent paint markers applied with a brush dipped in acetone.

 

[monk]

at one time i was using white shoe polish like nurses use. that was 30+ years ago. might be worth trying.

sam: quite sometime back, a forum member mentioned the white shoe polish was mixed with equal parts of old fashioned mucilage glue. le page made the stuff. sadly, i never found a source for the stuff to give it a whack.

 

[dogcatcher]

I have this saved in my notes.

http://www.engraverscafe.com/showthread.php?15997-layout-white&

I have not tried the product in the link. But is sounds very much like what I am using now.
Which is Elmers Painters Opaque Paint Marker. Pearlescent white.

Looks like a magic marker. Cost $2.49 in 9/2010 at a art supply store. Does not say how much paint it contains.

Works great. Far better than chinese white. I need something durable since I only hand push, and my thumb is braced against the work, or I pivot on my thumb. Rubs away the pencil line, and also wears away the white.

The Elmers dries fast, pencil lines show up dark, and can erase with a white eraser. If I want extra durability I give it a light coat of Mop N Glo with a foam pad using a blotting action after penciling. Then the paint and pencil lines are close to bullet proof. Cannot rub off. It is a little hard to remove the Elmers. Alcohol does work, but takes some rubbing. Ammonia works about the same.

Before was using a Sharpie white marker. Not as durable as the Elmers, but the Mop n Glo makes it close to bullet proof. One disadvantage versus Elmers is that the pencil lines don't show up as dark. Not quite as strong as the Elmers when erasing, but pretty good. Advantage over Elmers is that it is very easy to quickly clean up with alcohol, even with the top coat of Mop and Glo.

Mop and Glo is a water based acrylic floor finish. Used on Kitchen floors etc. Doubt it matters which brand you use. I like it much better than spray lacquers etc. Quick and easy to apply a nice even thin coat. Then warm up a little with a heat gun for a couple seconds. Wait about 15 seconds for it to cool and set. And then you can cut.

Neither the paint or floor finish have any effect on the graver when cutting.

The one thing I have wanted to try but never got around to it was mixing a little white shoe polish and a little Mop & Glo and seeing how it would work. I think it would be a very cheap alternative.