why is there no information on laser machines for marking metal?

[Ron H]

Very interesting, but some lasers require special dedicated and high-priced software. Some of these are available only by monthly subscription. Discussions of lasers should also mention the required software.

There seems to be a lot of missing information around the purchase and use of many of the out there. I have not found anything requiring a proprietary software yet. I have read a lot of people talk about Corel programs for operating their lasers. Anyone know which one of the Corel products they are talking about?

 

[Ron H]

Ideally, you’ll have a good fume collection system and you don’t have to smell or breathe whatever is being vaporized.

If it smells like a coal forge I can enjoy it. It’s a forging thing.

 

[Goldjockey]

I

If it smells like a coal forge I can enjoy it. It’s a forging thing.

It’s actually pretty toxic, Ron. The microscopic metal particles created when the laser vaporizes metal can make you very sick.You really need a good fume extraction unit to do anything serious with a laser.
Coreldraw is used because the laser works with vector rather than raster files to create tool paths. I’ve used Corel for decades for design work, but didn’t find it ideal for laser output. There is dedicated laser software like EZcad, or Lightburn used specifically for laser output. I use similar software from Laserstar for my work.

 

[monk]

Ideally, you’ll have a good fume collection system and you don’t have to smell or breathe whatever is being vaporized.

yes. my laser has a separate fume exhausting system. without such, half of what i do would likely lill me !

 

[Ron H]

I

It’s actually pretty toxic, Ron. The microscopic metal particles created when the laser vaporizes metal can make you very sick.You really need a good fume extraction unit to do anything serious with a laser.
Coreldraw is used because the laser works with vector rather than raster files to create tool paths. I’ve used Corel for decades for design work, but didn’t find it ideal for laser output. There is dedicated laser software like EZcad, or Lightburn used specifically for laser output. I use similar software from Laserstar for my work.

Again the lack of information. Nowhere in the sales information for various open laser systems do they say that there are airborne particles that are hazardous. It of course makes sense when someone says it out loud. Thank you for helping me not make an serious error.

 

[Goldjockey]

Most consumers are really on their own when it comes to the nuts and bolts of safely operating these machines. The system I use is from an American manufacturer (Laserstar), and comes with an entire in depth online training program, and three days of in person professional hands on instruction at the company HQ. Most systems don’t offer anything like this, and it’s completely up to you to figure all this out for yourself.

 

[Sinterklaas]

Again the lack of information. Nowhere in the sales information for various open laser systems do they say that there are airborne particles that are hazardous. It of course makes sense when someone says it out loud. Thank you for helping me not make an serious error.

And don't forget about eye protection. With an open laser you can get the laser reflecting in to your eyes. Not good at all!
So you must wear suitable eye protection. Or buy or make an enclosure. An enclosure will also help with the vapours. It makes it easier to extract the fumes from the enclosure vs from the entire room.

 

[monk]

Most consumers are really on their own when it comes to the nuts and bolts of safely operating these machines. The system I use is from an American manufacturer (Laserstar), and comes with an entire in depth online training program, and three days of in person professional hands on instruction at the company HQ. Most systems don’t offer anything like this, and it’s completely up to you to figure all this out for yourself.

my,my, my--you're lucky.a tech was only at my place for one day !!

 

[Goldjockey]

my,my, my--you're lucky.a tech was only at my place for one day !!

lol. No luck involved, Monk. The training was part of the package, and while I‘m grateful for it, in retrospect it was also very expensive. Knowing what I know today, I would have opted for a system more suited to my specific needs with far fewer whistles and bells. That being said, most of the systems out there don’t come with any training, and a full day with a tech is pretty awesome!

 

[EngraverHand]

I have an xTool 20W diode laser.. I have used it for transferring to copper and stainless steel. But read, "I have used it".. to be honest it is much faster to transfer a print, or even draw directly. Of course when I do more complicated (for me) scrolls I need a transfer, but I transfer the outlines. The transfer doesn't have to be really good, as long as I can see the lines or shades of the lines.

A diode laser like this will not remove any metal as background or anything. It can cut plastic, wood and leather but not any metal except for transferring..

Here is one where I made a guitar pick.

Jewelry Guitar Pick - XTool transfer

A few new things to try in this project..First I finally got to experiment a little more with my XTool D1 Pro 20W laser from @xToollaser Works great for tra...

youtube.com

It should be some more videos, but..

 

[Archibaldremembered]

I would call myself a beginner, except that I have not yet begun. Please forgive any dumb thoughts.

I do have a project that I hope to begin someday. I had asked my son-in-law, who has a laser engraver if he could cut aluminum. He said his is not powerful enough to cut any metal, but could mark metal with the use of a coating that the laser would burn onto the metal surface. I've had another idea for the work that I want to do. I'm wondering if I could use a CNC driven scratch or rotary engraver to put a very shallow scratch/mark of the design I want, to later be followed with engraving. Make any sense?

 

[Ron H]

I have an xTool 20W diode laser.. I have used it for transferring to copper and stainless steel. But read, "I have used it".. to be honest it is much faster to transfer a print, or even draw directly. Of course when I do more complicated (for me) scrolls I need a transfer, but I transfer the outlines. The transfer doesn't have to be really good, as long as I can see the lines or shades of the lines.

A diode laser like this will not remove any metal as background or anything. It can cut plastic, wood and leather but not any metal except for transferring..

Here is one where I made a guitar pick.

Jewelry Guitar Pick - XTool transfer

A few new things to try in this project..First I finally got to experiment a little more with my XTool D1 Pro 20W laser from @xToollaser Works great for tra...

youtube.com

It should be some more videos, but..

Great video, There really seems to be a lot of down sides for the laser. I am trying to direct draw like Sam mentioned. I am continue the hunt for a older legacy laser jet machine that will transfer easier. I have brother printers and an older Hp mul;tifunction machine. It is still hit and miss on getting a good transfer. I am going to go through the transfer section really well to find out what I am doing wrong.

 

[EngraverHand]

Great video, There really seems to be a lot of down sides for the laser. I am trying to direct draw like Sam mentioned. I am continue the hunt for a older legacy laser jet machine that will transfer easier. I have brother printers and an older Hp mul;tifunction machine. It is still hit and miss on getting a good transfer. I am going to go through the transfer section really well to find out what I am doing wrong.

Thanks, fun making those videos too Anyway, tomorrow I´ll try to put down the way I use for transfer with printers.. just a little on a rush now

 

[Ron H]

I would call myself a beginner, except that I have not yet begun. Please forgive any dumb thoughts.

I do have a project that I hope to begin someday. I had asked my son-in-law, who has a laser engraver if he could cut aluminum. He said his is not powerful enough to cut any metal, but could mark metal with the use of a coating that the laser would burn onto the metal surface. I've had another idea for the work that I want to do. I'm wondering if I could use a CNC driven scratch or rotary engraver to put a very shallow scratch/mark of the design I want, to later be followed with engraving. Make any sense?

What about a CNC routing machine with a Diamond bit. Lightly marking the surface. As others have warned, watch out for the metal dust. If you try please let know how it works out.

 

[Archibaldremembered]

What about a CNC routing machine with a Diamond bit. Lightly marking the surface. As others have warned, watch out for the metal dust. If you try please let know how it works out.

That is what I proposed in my last sentence. However, I modified my language to conform to today's technology. I'm actually going to be working with a pantograph engraver, not CNC. I've wanted to do this for many years and hope to get to it finally. My application is a much simpler approach than most people here do. My engraving will be a consistent depth and either straight or wiggle lines. I'll have to experiment, but estimate a depth cut of 1/4000th. I hope to do it with one pass and the shallow rotary cut first, only if necessary. I have an Alexander 3A Pantograph and will be attempting to lock the spindle and use it in a way similar to a straight-line engine. It's theory at this point, so we'll see.

 

[Goldjockey]

What about a CNC routing machine with a Diamond bit. Lightly marking the surface. As others have warned, watch out for the metal dust. If you try please let know how it works out.

Have tried desktop CNC. There's a significant learning curve. The machines can be finicky, the precision isn't always as advertised, and you can quickly go through a lot of expensive bits and burrs to get close to the results you want. It can also be frustratingly slow.

 

[Ron H]

Have tried desktop CNC. There's a significant learning curve. The machines can be finicky, the precision isn't always as advertised, and you can quickly go through a lot of expensive bits and burrs to get close to the results you want. It can also be frustratingly slow.

What about a circuit machine with a carbide bit instead of blade they use to cut paper?

 

[Goldjockey]

What about a circuit machine with a carbide bit instead of blade they use to cut paper?

The machine I owned was a Carbide 3D Nomad, a desktop CNC mill (not recommended). I’m not familiar with the machine you’re referencing.

I do know from my own research that there are are both desktop CNC machines that will use a diamond drag bit, as well as dedicated diamond drag engraving machines, but if its just for doing transfers or layouts, speaking only from my own experience, once you have the software down, a fiber laser is both accurate and fast.

Unless one likes complexity for its own sake, for me the ease, efficiency, and accuracy of the laser trumps monkeying with tool paths, bits, etc. every time.

Think of is this way. Instead of using a laser printer or copier to capture a drawing, and then hand transferring the drawing to the surface you want to engrave (which can have its own complexities), you’re simply using a laser to ‘print’ to the metal directly.

ETA: This is an image I just 'printed’ onto a stainless money clip finding using a fiber laser. Total print time was a couple of minutes. As you can see, the 'print' is quite detailed. The time to import the drawing and create a tracing of the original drawing is also only a couple of minutes total.