layout white

[atexascowboy2011]

Cloudy
I have used their (Laurel Mtn. Forge) browning solution for my spurs for years, in conjunction with Given's hot box, with excellent results, in producing a rust brown or black.
Will have to try the layout fluid. Just because they make an excellent product. It never hurts to try new things.
Jeff

 

[monk]

i too, will give this a try. i tried liquid white out a couple weeks ago. flaking while cutting-- bummer. i still use mike cirellis' formula. i call it "cirelli sauce ! that works pretty well for me, but is a bit odifferous in use.

 

[dlilazteca]

Any test results?

Carlos De La O III

 

[monk]

i tried it. looked good, that is till i put a .3mm soft led pencil to it. it flaked with the pencil' i know my metal was clean, and i know for certain the stuff was dry. maybe it was applied too thick, unsure about that. till i hear more about this from others, will go back to my cirelli sauce.

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

If I order one of these I have to pay an extra 40$ for shipping to Belgium.

arnaud

 

[mrthe]

Wow 40$!!! i hope it worth all this money!

 

[Julia.J]

Sounds like it's pretty easy to add too much of the liquid (it causes the flaking)- it's water based right? Has someone tried how it acts when it's thinned with something like distilled water?

 

[sam]

A lot of years ago I tried the liquid white shoe polish that nurses use. It worked but rusted steel. That's about all I remember and I never used it again. It might work well for stainless steels or other non-ferrous metals, and it's cheap and readily available.

The Dykem white sounds interesting. I might give that a try. I still use transfer wax for layouts but am open to trying different things.

 

[dlilazteca]

I went to Michaels yesterday and was looking for the chinese white in the cube/square form with no luck, but I did find it in a tube. I've herd that the square form is better, so here is my question, how would I apply this do i need to thin it out? Any special applicator.

Ok I applied it with my finger, a very thin layer, now I tried to draw on a small silver plate, here is my question, when you draw on our object are you supposed to transfer the lead to the plate, or is this method meant so that when you draw on your plate you scratch off the white, thus showing your drawing?

As far as I can see it seemed to scratch off the white.

Thanks

 

[Chujybear]

lead should transfer to the surface of the white..
chinese white- thin as possible

 

[Marrinan]

White dry water color is usable. I squeezed all the tube form into a small metal can with a lid (I used a GRS type graver lube tin) and let it dry out. Took a while but seems to be the real deal and a lot cheaper. Mike Dubber is the expert with white. Fred

 

[monk]

no. the pencil lead should not remove the white-- white should remain intact.

 

[monk]

arnaud: my personal thought is--- definetly not worth what you would have to pay to have it shipped to your location

 

[dave gibson]

I went to Michaels yesterday and was looking for the chinese white in the cube/square form with no luck, but I did find it in a tube. I've herd that the square form is better, so here is my question, how would I apply this do i need to thin it out? Any special applicator.

Ok I applied it with my finger, a very thin layer, now I tried to draw on a small silver plate, here is my question, when you draw on our object are you supposed to transfer the lead to the plate, or is this method meant so that when you draw on your plate you scratch off the white, thus showing your drawing?

As far as I can see it seemed to scratch off the white.

Thanks

Carlos; this is what I use now and it's my favorite BUT here's the trick. Put down a thin coat of transfer fluid and let it dry then a thin coat of white. It takes a pencil line with out peeling, you can erase, washes off with water. The fluid I use I bought from my teacher but I think damar varnish & zippo fluid should work.

 

[LVVP]

Thank you Dave for the advise

 

[Dale Hatfield]

So I bought a bottle of whatever the stuff was from Track of the Wolf. I rubbed a small bit on a piece of brass. Tried to draw on it. 6 or so different types of pencils failed to leave a line. They would smear a very light line. So I painted on another layer. No luck with any pencil .
So At this point its not for me. Ill give it another go try a sharpie or something else. Ive got some Tom White White fluid that so far is much better for Me.

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

Well thanks Dale for sharing your experience on this. As I keep on getting better using Chinese White, I will stay with that what works for me.
adding the Chinese White layer I know do it using my finger tip and smearing the paint onto the metal, works even better.
To make corrections, I just use a pencil.

[video=youtube;P7KLia3Sfbc]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P7KLia3Sfbc[/video]

arnaud

 

[Julia.J]

Thank you Arnaud for the video! I've had similar results with gesso, a primer used for paintings- and it's cheap. Just a tiny drop is enough to cover quite a large area, no water needed, I've applied it with my finger. You'll just have to be absolutely sure that the layer is dry before drawing on it, so I've dabbed the area with a cloth before drawing. Mechanical pencil works the best as it's easier to draw very lightly; if too much pressure is used, the pencil takes some of the gesso with it, but it's still a clean line and workable, even if this happens. When the cutting is done the layer can be removed with water.

~Julia

 

[JJ Roberts]

If your going to work in steel in my case guns I would stay away from Chinese white and use mutton & tallow,if the Chinese white left on the steel to long you'll have a rust problem I learned that the hard way.I will never use Chinese white again. J.J.

 

[M. J. Atkinson]

Very good stuff. Also does an excellent transfer from my scanner/copier. Mike