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zmankay
Member
Arnaud,
Thank you for the video, it was very educational regarding the use of Chinese White. It looks like you used Thermo-loc to secure your work and my question is how do you remove the jewelry piece without scratching it or having some residual Thermo-loc sticking to the jewelry? It doesn't look like there is any plastic bag material underneath the locket to keep the Thermo-loc for smearing onto the locket. I saw your video sometime ago about removing excess Thermo-loc via an Ultrasonic device but I wonder if there is a way to keep items clean that can't be put into an Ultrasonic because of size or fear of rusting. Thank you for your help and information over the years.
Thank you for the video, it was very educational regarding the use of Chinese White. It looks like you used Thermo-loc to secure your work and my question is how do you remove the jewelry piece without scratching it or having some residual Thermo-loc sticking to the jewelry? It doesn't look like there is any plastic bag material underneath the locket to keep the Thermo-loc for smearing onto the locket. I saw your video sometime ago about removing excess Thermo-loc via an Ultrasonic device but I wonder if there is a way to keep items clean that can't be put into an Ultrasonic because of size or fear of rusting. Thank you for your help and information over the years.
dlilazteca
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
A plastic bag or you could use blue painters tape, works like a charm.
Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread, back to white layout.
There are many topics/threads on this.
Carlos De La O III
Sorry, don't mean to hijack the thread, back to white layout.
There are many topics/threads on this.
Carlos De La O III
Arnaud Van Tilburgh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Jim, to remove what is left of the Thermoloc I use a pot filled whit acetone that I put in the Ultra Sonic cleaner. That way the acetone is heated and does the job better and faster.
About items that do not fit the ultra sonic, I never had that problem. I'm a goldsmith so most of the time I engrave smaller object.
But there are several ways to remove the Thermoloc, it should not be a problem.
When you heat the item that the Thermoloc will hold, it is a bit glued on it, I like that but you ten need the acetone to dissolve the Thermoloc. If you just put the item into the Thermoloc without heating the item, the Thermoloc wont stick to it and can me removed easy. I use a heating gun to heat the Thermoloc.
arnaud
About items that do not fit the ultra sonic, I never had that problem. I'm a goldsmith so most of the time I engrave smaller object.
But there are several ways to remove the Thermoloc, it should not be a problem.
When you heat the item that the Thermoloc will hold, it is a bit glued on it, I like that but you ten need the acetone to dissolve the Thermoloc. If you just put the item into the Thermoloc without heating the item, the Thermoloc wont stick to it and can me removed easy. I use a heating gun to heat the Thermoloc.
arnaud
Marrinan
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
F pencil will draw directly on bare metal, there are several other types of pencils that draw on glass and metal. I use most of them. Fred
Arnaud Van Tilburgh
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Fred, I didn't know about those pencils besides permanent sharpie etc. Yes I can draw directly on Ti as well as long as it isn't polished. In fact every surface that isn't polished you can draw on using a HB pencil
arnaud
arnaud
Marrinan
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
The following will draw directly on polished metal. Most will draw on glass. I have and do use them all.
Sanford VERITHIN No 747 pencil
Eberhard Faber col-erase No 1276 blue pencil
Any grease based pencil. usually have a string to expose more lead
Lead F used in drafting lead hold Takes a bit of rubbing to remove-no abrasive just rub hard My favorite
Stabilo Graphite Pencil writes on anything
Pens for glass and highly polished metal that I use
Micron 01 through 07 sizes archival ink
Pilot Drawing pen sizes 01, 03, 05DR encre a pigment
Sharpie fine pen not the markers this is .05 or .03 ink
Staedtler Pigment liner archival sizes .1 through .7
With all of the above I use a light spray of fixative or hair spray to prevent any smudging after pigment has set. I use them all and have no issues with them. I also generally scribe before engraving myself. not all the detail just the main lines which is all I draw anyway with a few exceptions.
Fred
PS if that is not enough try http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfZ-DOCc3AE I haven't but I will looks cool to me
found theses on jet pens The Mitsubishi Dermatograph pencils are like upscale versions of your typical grease pencil. Available in several bright colors, these soft colored pencils are perfect for writing on glass, metal, plastics, ceramic, vinyl, cellophane, and marks can be removed from any non-porous smooth surface
Sanford VERITHIN No 747 pencil
Eberhard Faber col-erase No 1276 blue pencil
Any grease based pencil. usually have a string to expose more lead
Lead F used in drafting lead hold Takes a bit of rubbing to remove-no abrasive just rub hard My favorite
Stabilo Graphite Pencil writes on anything
Pens for glass and highly polished metal that I use
Micron 01 through 07 sizes archival ink
Pilot Drawing pen sizes 01, 03, 05DR encre a pigment
Sharpie fine pen not the markers this is .05 or .03 ink
Staedtler Pigment liner archival sizes .1 through .7
With all of the above I use a light spray of fixative or hair spray to prevent any smudging after pigment has set. I use them all and have no issues with them. I also generally scribe before engraving myself. not all the detail just the main lines which is all I draw anyway with a few exceptions.
Fred
PS if that is not enough try http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfZ-DOCc3AE I haven't but I will looks cool to me
found theses on jet pens The Mitsubishi Dermatograph pencils are like upscale versions of your typical grease pencil. Available in several bright colors, these soft colored pencils are perfect for writing on glass, metal, plastics, ceramic, vinyl, cellophane, and marks can be removed from any non-porous smooth surface
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