Silberschweif
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Hope you like it
Titanium Buckle Koi for Practice
- Thread starter Silberschweif
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Silberschweif
Elite Cafe Member
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thank you
but i have to work on shading
but i have to work on shading
AliAtiyabi
Elite Cafe Member
It's beautiful.
Ali,Beautiful how did you do the color? J.J.
AliAtiyabi
Elite Cafe Member
Roberts, it's not my work.
Silberschweif
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Thank you all 
JJ i the Tips Sektion is a Tutorial about anodizing Titanium I used as electrolyt a solution from 1g ammoniumsulfat with 10ml water but there are many recipes that work
JJ i the Tips Sektion is a Tutorial about anodizing Titanium I used as electrolyt a solution from 1g ammoniumsulfat with 10ml water but there are many recipes that work
Jonathans
Elite Cafe Member
I love the application of the scrolled water. Bravo
just beautiful. i have found success in the annodizing of colors, but have never understood how the black outlining is done. what sort of hook and ring will you make for the back?
Last edited:
Silberschweif
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The Black is only deep shading no color no blackening
tyvm for that. this is a fascinating piece.
Tip for easier colouring in.
Drop by your local hobby shop, model painting brushes come in teeny tiny ones and the smaller you can get the better.
Ask your wife or your supermarket or chemist if they have some nail polish. I'm liking my red sally hansen polish. It seems to survive better than half a dozen other brands at high voltage ... the others will lift and let the colour seep under. Either work up in voltages masking over masks... or down in voltages washing the masks off and remasking every colour. Note if you're doing more than 90v i would do the high ones first because that's what's likely to go wrong.
Shading tips, sharpen the belly facets on your graver every fifth or tenth time you sharpen your graver. Keep it razor razor sharp. And get comfortable with starting the cuts by rubbing the belly on the metal and gradually lifting your hand til the curl starts coming in front of the graver, then you're cutting... taper from super thin to as thick as you like. Super thin to quite thick and not very many of them reads quite well to the human eye. You'll notice Sam's recent thread about over shading. Work your way up to exhibition grade over shading if you like... but what you're doing is alright. Keep checking everyone else's work and how their shading makes it look good... figure out if your style is more suited to thick sparse shading... longer shading cuts... or more negative space. For the most part shading will come without much trouble with just practice, practice.
Drop by your local hobby shop, model painting brushes come in teeny tiny ones and the smaller you can get the better.
Ask your wife or your supermarket or chemist if they have some nail polish. I'm liking my red sally hansen polish. It seems to survive better than half a dozen other brands at high voltage ... the others will lift and let the colour seep under. Either work up in voltages masking over masks... or down in voltages washing the masks off and remasking every colour. Note if you're doing more than 90v i would do the high ones first because that's what's likely to go wrong.
Shading tips, sharpen the belly facets on your graver every fifth or tenth time you sharpen your graver. Keep it razor razor sharp. And get comfortable with starting the cuts by rubbing the belly on the metal and gradually lifting your hand til the curl starts coming in front of the graver, then you're cutting... taper from super thin to as thick as you like. Super thin to quite thick and not very many of them reads quite well to the human eye. You'll notice Sam's recent thread about over shading. Work your way up to exhibition grade over shading if you like... but what you're doing is alright. Keep checking everyone else's work and how their shading makes it look good... figure out if your style is more suited to thick sparse shading... longer shading cuts... or more negative space. For the most part shading will come without much trouble with just practice, practice.
By the way the Koi looks great. Maybe for the water getting in there and crosshatching it in a few directions would help... more like bulino. Try it on paper first and see what you think
dani girl: thanks. now i'll have something to do when the cold winter winds come roaring in.
Silberschweif
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Wow thank you Dani Girl I will do my best and hope the time will give me moore and better feeling for shading my work
About Coloring i did it with nail polisch color by color vom high to low.
I think thats mutch easyer cause in the lower voltage it doesent matter if you touch a already colored field
I talked in a german forum to someone with moore expierience about coloring titanium he said titanium Grade 5 will give the best and cleanest color in the higher voltages and he uses Multi etch bevore colloring aigainst the titanium patina
the buckle is grade2 and polished with 1000 Grit sandpaper so next time I will try that
About Coloring i did it with nail polisch color by color vom high to low.
I think thats mutch easyer cause in the lower voltage it doesent matter if you touch a already colored field
I talked in a german forum to someone with moore expierience about coloring titanium he said titanium Grade 5 will give the best and cleanest color in the higher voltages and he uses Multi etch bevore colloring aigainst the titanium patina
the buckle is grade2 and polished with 1000 Grit sandpaper so next time I will try that
Steve L S
Member
he said titanium Grade 5 will give the best and cleanest color in the higher voltages
That's interesting! I understand that grade 5 is an alloy and was told by friends who know more about it than me to stay away from alloys and stick with grades 1 or 2. So I wonder if grade 5 engraves well?
That's interesting! I understand that grade 5 is an alloy and was told by friends who know more about it than me to stay away from alloys and stick with grades 1 or 2. So I wonder if grade 5 engraves well?
Very cool belt buckle. Looking forward to seeing what you do next.
Eugene Carkoski
Elite Cafe Member
where do you get such a buckle tks in advance.
tsterling
Elite Cafe Member
Grade 5 titanium (also known as Ti 6Al4V) is noticeably harder than grade 1 or 2 titanium (sometimes called CP titanium) to engrave or to carve with rotary burs. Grade 5 is also what most knifemakers use for their titanium knife scales as it is less expensive and easily available. I don't like to engrave grade 5, (but love grade 1 and 2) and I charge a premium for projects involving grade 5. It cuts cleanly, but requires more effort to cut deeply or sculpt.
Tom
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