Question: Stippling

[Borzzza]

Trying to make stippling for the first time today, but it looks too shallow to me...like sand blasting. Should it be like that or maybe I try to work deeper?
One more question, at which Gravermach spm preset do you usually do stippling? I'm on 33, it feels fine, but just in case)
Sorry for pics, tried to take some via my scope)

 

[SamW]

I use the Lindsey airgraver and before that the GRS Gravermeister. I always found that lighter, faster strokes did not give a good dark stipple. I reduce the strokes per minute which increases the power and get a good stipple.

 

[Borzzza]

I use the Lindsey airgraver and before that the GRS Gravermeister. I always found that lighter, faster strokes did not give a good dark stipple. I reduce the strokes per minute which increases the power and get a good stipple.

Thanks Sam!
Now when you say I see it's not black enough. I will continue working on it.

Photo of practice plate under 3x magnification:

 

[SamW]

Make sure your point is sharp and then go back over all the tiny white spots that are showing so as to black out all of it. This can be done fairly lightly. If there are not many of these kinds of areas I sometimes stipple those out with a scribe and by hand.

 

[Borzzza]

Make sure your point is sharp and then go back over all the tiny white spots that are showing so as to black out all of it. This can be done fairly lightly. If there are not many of these kinds of areas I sometimes stipple those out with a scribe and by hand.

At one moment I already understood that the point got dull by changes in shapes of the dots, had to resharpen. Stippling by hand light areas is great idea, thanks!

 

[JJ Roberts]

Here is a stippling tool that was posted here on the Cafe a while back..can't remember who posted it, but I made one that I use with the Lindsay Classic & it works fine. Has anyone else picked up on this idea?

 

[monk]

if the tool is made properly it should take an eon or two before it goes dull. i have made them using hss and carbide. used dental burs are good to get into tiny areas. btw-- some of what i see is punch dot, not stippling.

 

[Ron Jr.]

Its been my experience that there is a sweet spot for stippling dark areas. Too light/small not dark enough, too big/deep and you start getting shiny spots. SamW is absolutely correct also, keep that point very sharp.

 

[Borzzza]

-- some of what i see is punch dot, not stippling.

As I understood my "stippling" is not deep enough to be a real stippling... is it called "punch dot"? Well, I sharpened jewelers punch to needle point to make my tool.

Sorry if my questions sound stupid, I'm still struggling to remember all these technical words in English)))

 

[Borzzza]

Here is a stippling tool that was posted here on the Cafe a while back..can't remember who posted it, but I made one that I use with the Lindsay Classic & it works fine. Has anyone else picked up on this idea?

This is the tool I'm using

 

[JJ Roberts]

With the extension of the pin vice on the hand piece it's much easier to control. J.J.

 

[Borzzza]

With the extension of the pin vice on the hand piece it's much easier to control. J.J.

I can imagine! my fingers got numb after couple of hours holding the hand piece perpendicular to to plate and pushing the button)))
Unfortunately I have nor skills (yet) neither tools to make something like you have. It looks way more comfortable!

 

[sam]

I stipple at 5200 strokes per minute using a GRS tapered carbide point sharpened to a needle point. I use a lot of foot pedal to get a deep, dark stipple, and I go across the surface and down into my cut, but not up the other side of the cut. This produces a very dark, deep stipple texture.

 

[Borzzza]

I stipple at 5200 strokes per minute using a GRS tapered carbide point sharpened to a needle point. I use a lot of foot pedal to get a deep, dark stipple, and I go across the surface and down into my cut, but not up the other side of the cut. This produces a very dark, deep stipple texture.

Thank you! I was not sure how deep I have to dig in as I never saw a stippled surface in real. I will switch to foot pedal and start back)

 

[sam]

This is stippled with a carbide point @ 5200 SPM.

 

[monk]

cant remember, but someone showed a way to do the points with 3 & even 4 faces-- like a pyramid. the shapes can produce an effect somewhat different from a single point. when i used these, they never dulled. perhaps i didn't use them often enough. who knows ?

 

[gcleaker]

cant remember, but someone showed a way to do the points with 3 & even 4 faces-- like a pyramid. the shapes can produce an effect somewhat different from a single point. when i used these, they never dulled. perhaps i didn't use them often enough. who knows ?

I got a high carbon rod just waiting for that idea. Thanks.
Skill comes from diligence.

 

[SamW]

To answer your question about punch dot. It is a tool similar to your stipple tool except it had a tiny flat spot on the end that then has a concave surface added so that when you strike it with a chasing hammer, it leaves a small round convex dot in the metal. A lot of them side by side look like fish roe or tiny BBs.

Also, if you use it like your stipple tool, it will leave a rough surface but not a matt (dark) surface.

 

[Borzzza]

To answer your question about punch dot. It is a tool similar to your stipple tool except it had a tiny flat spot on the end that then has a concave surface added so that when you strike it with a chasing hammer, it leaves a small round convex dot in the metal. A lot of them side by side look like fish roe or tiny BBs.

Also, if you use it like your stipple tool, it will leave a rough surface but not a matt (dark) surface.

Thanks for explanation! In fact I made my stippling tool from such a jeweller's punch dot - polished the tip to needle point)) I experimented a bit with making background with those dots, want to get them in various sizes to play with.