Critique Request Silver Cross

RyanColyar

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Messages
28
This is a work in progress. Argentium sterling. I’m getting back into the swing of things after a few years hiatus. Struggled with drag marks. And I apologize that the photography isn’t better. I’d value your input. Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • D5ABAFD7-FADB-494F-8B60-CB580FCF30DE.jpeg
    D5ABAFD7-FADB-494F-8B60-CB580FCF30DE.jpeg
    166 KB · Views: 193

JJ Roberts

:::Pledge Member:::
::::Pledge Member::::
Joined
Nov 10, 2006
Messages
3,520
Location
Manassas, VA
Ryan,You asked about drag marks,what tools are you using for your engraving? J.J.
 

RyanColyar

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Messages
28
I was having more drag marks with a 38 flat when bright cutting the leaves, tight turns.
 

RyanColyar

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Messages
28
You know, it was more a a chatter type of issue. I just couldn’t seem to get a smooth cut on those. Tried to turn the vise rather than my hand. Maybe just out of practice.
 

monk

Moderator
Staff member
::::Pledge Member::::
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
10,962
Location
washington, pa
you could try putting short heels on the flats. as for chatter, likely the result of using air assist at a too slow speed. other than for hobo nickels, i never needed heels very much on my flats.
 

RyanColyar

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Messages
28
Mine is a 60 face and rounded 15 deg heel. What do you prefer? Maybe I should double check that. Maybe I got interrupted and didn’t put enough heel on it...
 

RyanColyar

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Messages
28
J.J., I realized I don’t ask your question very completely. I have an older gravermax and various shaped gravers. I still shift gears to push graving sometimes.
 

JJ Roberts

:::Pledge Member:::
::::Pledge Member::::
Joined
Nov 10, 2006
Messages
3,520
Location
Manassas, VA
Ryan,You may try 45 face and a 10 deg. heel are you using a flat or a round heel? J.J.
 

allan621

:::Pledge Member:::
::::Pledge Member::::
Joined
Jan 10, 2007
Messages
374
Also notice the elevation of the cut. For me chatter comes when I don't hold the tool level enough. So the chatter comes when it goes a shade too deep, forms a tiny wall and then bounces over the cut to go too deep again. For me that's the cause of chatter.

I notice this when I'm cutting metal with porosity and the the cutting edge naturally dives into the porosity pothole going too deep with the cut and then bouncing over the little wall. Also if I have to cut metal deeper than normal and try too hard to remove too much metal at one time. It forms a little wall and then with a little more power the cutting edge jumps over it. Chatter.

Allan
 

RyanColyar

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Messages
28
Also notice the elevation of the cut. For me chatter comes when I don't hold the tool level enough. So the chatter comes when it goes a shade too deep, forms a tiny wall and then bounces over the cut to go too deep again. For me that's the cause of chatter.

I notice this when I'm cutting metal with porosity and the the cutting edge naturally dives into the porosity pothole going too deep with the cut and then bouncing over the little wall. Also if I have to cut metal deeper than normal and try too hard to remove too much metal at one time. It forms a little wall and then with a little more power the cutting edge jumps over it. Chatter.

Allan
Thanks Allan. I think that might be what’s going on for me too. Not due to porosity (I just cut the piece from bar stock.) but I think maybe my initial cuts were too deep and started the process you’re describing.
 

monk

Moderator
Staff member
::::Pledge Member::::
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
10,962
Location
washington, pa
60 degree face-- way, way too much. 45- 50. the 50 simply increases the strength of the tool point-- less bresksge that way
 

RyanColyar

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Messages
28
Thanks Monk. I appreciate the pointer. I’ll give it a try.

Monk, I used the reground 38 with a 45 face and 10 rounded heel on this one. I think it did help. Sorry again the photography isn’t better. Of course, critiques are welcome.
 

Attachments

  • 333D805B-F2B7-4283-8048-E46457BB61A9.jpeg
    333D805B-F2B7-4283-8048-E46457BB61A9.jpeg
    134.6 KB · Views: 53

RyanColyar

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Messages
28
Another question. I was thinking about doing some similar work in steel (less gummy, maybe try some inlay). Anyone have a recommended steel type and source? I was thinking stainless. But tell me what you think.
 

papart1

:::Pledge Member:::
::::Pledge Member::::
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
1,406
Location
Michigan
1018 cold drawn 2" wide about 16 ga. at lowes,home depot.......comes 3' long, This is all I ever use, can resand and reuse multiple times paps
 

RyanColyar

Member
Joined
Sep 10, 2018
Messages
28
1018 cold drawn 2" wide about 16 ga. at lowes,home depot.......comes 3' long, This is all I ever use, can resand and reuse multiple times paps
Thanks Paps. These are baptismal crosses, often worn every day. Do you think the 1018 would wear well?
 

papart1

:::Pledge Member:::
::::Pledge Member::::
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
1,406
Location
Michigan
I thought you just wanted something to practice on that was easier than s.s...........no they wouldn't wear I don't think, kinda heavy. Try Speedy Metals.com for some bronze/brass, all different kinds of s.s. too. Sorry about my confusion..........its happening pretty fast. paps
 

papart1

:::Pledge Member:::
::::Pledge Member::::
Joined
May 23, 2015
Messages
1,406
Location
Michigan
I reviewed the post/s and yes it would wear good at a thinner piece, say 18-20 gauge 1018 sorry.
 

Latest posts

Sponsors

FEGA
Top