Help, please: engraving copper

[Robert Wiegand]

Recently I asked for help trying to engrave hard metal and I got great help from the forum, so I want to thank you again.But now I'm trying to engrave copper and having all sorts of problems.I thought maybe changing the face angle,but i dont know.Any suggestions.

 

[John B.]

Hi Robert...... what type of problems are you having?
Please explain. Is it cast copper or milled or a stamping?

 

[Robert Wiegand]

its copper plates I bought on line and it seems to push the material.Plus it hard to control my graver.

 

[FANCYGUN]

Sounds to me as if the copper is work hardened and needs to be annealed When I was doing printmaking in college on copper plates they where real easy to cut even with a scribe for dry point etching

 

[John B.]

Copper can be a bit "gummy" to engrave sometimes.
Copper is usually not hard to cut but make sure your gravers are sharp.
You mentioned that you had requested and got help with hard metal before.
For copper I would advise sharpening your gravers with a 45% face and a 15% heel.
Are you using push, hammer and chisel or power assisted engraving methods?
Normal copper plates can be cut with these methods but the plates need to be firmly held against the pressure of the sharp graver.

 

[John B.]

As Marty ( Fancygun) says, you may have bought some hard copper.
Easy to soften it, though.
Just heat with a torch and drop the hot metal into water.

 

[monk]

copper should not give one fits regardless of h&c, push, or air assist. i don't recall engraving any cast copper. not sure how the cast would be to work. if you have done well with steel, even work hardened copper should not be much of a problem. i have never experinced the "gummy" situation mentioned above. perhaps you got some special alloy that got out the gate by mistake.

 

[Robert Wiegand]

thank you all for your advise and time.I am going to do what you all told me a nd see what happens ,THANKS AGAIN.Its nice to have a place to go for good advice...have a good day

 

[papart1]

I've found a slightly wider heel on a 120/40 degree face works like butter

 

[monk]

don't be a slave to just one geometry. when you like one, try different ones. the different geometries can make life a bit easier when doing a variety of m,aterials/techniques.

 

[dms]

cutting should give a chip curl , dull graver will push metal up on the sides and not much curl.

 

[monk]

short heels are needed for curves. myybe as thick as a hair. not nuch more. short heels are far easier to control. atleast that's my experience.

 

[papart1]

John......your 45/15 is on a 105 degree geometry then please? paps

 

[tdelewis]

I get my copper from onlinemetals.com. I never had any trouble with it. 50 face 15 heel and highly polished heel. I have only used it for bright cut western style engraving. Mostly using no. 45 flat and 120 for single lines.

 

[JJ Roberts]

My hand push tool 90 degree's with a 15 degree lift and has a 40 degree face purchase the copper plates from Dick Blick art supplies the copper plates are nice to cut and work on a leather sand bag,were a few plates I've done. J.J.

 

[mdengraver]

JJ excellent work! Thanks for the Dick Blick link!

 

[John B.]

John......your 45/15 is on a 105 degree geometry then please? paps

Hello Paps, sorry for the late reply.

My copper cutting gravers are usually 45 face, 15 heel, 90 degree geometry.
Or the same thing on a 110 or 120 for bright cut.
Must say, I don't cut a lot of copper though.

 

[papart1]

Thanks John for the clarification this a.m. Have a productive day please.

 

[papart1]

beautiful work on your copper plates JJ.