Prior to casting I first seat the Falcon Body pattern to the wing set, I like to use 'Madame Butterfly' silk tape, this Tape is 'Red'. The Red Silk tape can be obtained from 'Pearson Dental lab supply'
You can see I have many Body patterns, their are three different body styles, I was keeping my options open.
Next I will seat the lower body with legs and tail in place, great care is taken at this point, as I do not wish to destroy the feather pattern that is intimate to the leg 'Honches'(hips).
Thank You! It's been well close to two years! I have 16 in progress, the Enameling was a learning curve, in it's self. Casting Silver in such large components was also, a big curve, I am a 40yr Dental Tech so I felt I had a reasonable chance.
I scrub the general area of the wing/leg/tail with vasilene gelly,(just enough) so that the light UV, 'paste' will 'give it up' after curing.
I'm using 'Primotec' paste 866-643-3129,for adaptation, and Primotec UV curing chamber.
After curing be sure to clean greasy film off with alcohol, remove any undercuts or possible obstructions with a scalpel. If body snaps on to wing that's bad,you want an easy passive fit.
Now I will texture cured plastic with cuts and creases,then I will use Red Primotec paste (stiff) and stroke on some paste in random pattern and cure, so that after casting I can use my 'cat like' graving skills to pass them off as feathers. The body should have a passive fit to wings and legs, a fit more like a 'cheap polyester suit' rather than a precise rocket ingine,part.
Now for head adaptation. After removing pattern head,I lube the neck with vasolene gelly,I heat a solid cast (extra) gold head using large tweezers over the bunsen burner and seat it gently to the plastic pattern, I repeat this a few times to assure that the head/neck profile Is imprinted to the plastic body.
The reason I do this is that both versions of the head are desendants from the same master die,hence they share identical neck feather profiles.as you will see next, having the same DNA,(Direct Nifty Adaptation) The 'HORUS' heads will be much easier to seat.
Useing a small strip of 'Madame Butterfly' I seat the finished head to body, not difficult,one must take the time to evaluate as you progress.
some earlier versions did have the 'Sun Disc' welded to the head, it's risky so I will cement the 'sun disc' on these later versions
I polished the interior of the head,then I lube with vasolene gelly and seat with Red Primotec paste at the fringe only as UV light cannot reach interior for curing.,then I will turn it over and fill with paste and cure.
Then I flip it over and fill with paste/cure.
After head adaptation is completed I Sprue with 3 ,,8-10mm plastic 1/8" dia. sprue, these will be the studs for clamping in my A300 Ringenie vise. Further spruing is 8ga rope wax, with some small14ga rope to feed 'down contour' in body(molten alloy will flow up,but not down much). I'll scrub with alcohol to remove any matter,then scrub with surfactant,blow dry. I'll be using Whip-Mix Brand investment,curing a min of one and 1/2 hours.
Projected Wt; 150 grains, I'll add about 125%,so I will have about 350 grains for each casting. Peak burnout will be 1250* for 1 hour,then I'll let temp slide to 350* for at least 15min.I want to cast inside a 30min. Window, the longer it idles at such low temp,the higher the risk of cracking investment. This table shows Wt. To casting Temps that work well with my 'KERR' casting machine and 'Whip-Mix' investment.
I know next to nothing about 'Pour Casting' however if anyone does,please feel free to add,I am delighted to have you step in! Your comments are formally invited!
Prepared on left, graved only/pre-polish
