Question: How to use the scraper correctly?

[Engraver10]

Hello friend of the Forum, could you help me with a doubt about how to use a scraper to remove burrs left by the burin and how to finish intaglio plates, because when I use my scraper the plate is always scratched no matter how careful I am to leave it the scraper parallel to the board.

Yesterday I finished this engraving on the side of my country's banknote, but there are some burrs left, I would like to use the scraper and polish the copper plate.

I don't know if the burrs are more frequent on copper because it's soft, as I've never engraved on harder metal, only copper and SAE 1045 steel.

I still have a lot to learn, there are many tools that I don't know and I don't know how to use them correctly. I really want to learn more.

I'm sending some images including my scraper and burnisher, I'm trying to polish it to remove the raw finish that came from the factory.

Regards

 

[Engraver10]

Taking advantage of the topic, I would like to know if this diamond shading technique is a dot if it uses a dry point to create the dot.
I zoomed in on the images for easier viewing.

Thanks

 

[monk]

best to avoid them in the first place. i think you should practice "popping out" just at the right time. this will eliminate the need for cleanup when finished. i've never done copperplate such as you show. not sure how i'd deal with the issue.

 

[mdengraver]

I believe the scraper needs to remain sharp. OK to refine the factory edge but don't polish, it dulls the point. You aren't using it here to burnish that is what a burnished is for.

 

[mtlctr]

Hello friend of the Forum, could you help me with a doubt about how to use a scraper to remove burrs left by the burin and how to finish intaglio plates, because when I use my scraper the plate is always scratched no matter how careful I am to leave it the scraper parallel to the board.

Yesterday I finished this engraving on the side of my country's banknote, but there are some burrs left, I would like to use the scraper and polish the copper plate.

I don't know if the burrs are more frequent on copper because it's soft, as I've never engraved on harder metal, only copper and SAE 1045 steel.

I still have a lot to learn, there are many tools that I don't know and I don't know how to use them correctly. I really want to learn more.

I'm sending some images including my scraper and burnisher, I'm trying to polish it to remove the raw finish that came from the factory.

Regards

I’ve never done bulino / intaligo but I’ve cut lots of copper. If your tool if sharp you shouldn’t have burrs imo. Another engraver told me you should be able to pass a nylon stocking over the work without snagging.
I think Monk is correct about the “popping out the chip” so there is no need to scrap the work.
your work is exquisite imho.
kent

 

[Engraver10]

Thanks!!!
I'm going to try this technique, is there any burin profile format that helps not to leave so much burr. I used a single, square and diamond burin in this engraving for shallow and wide cuts.

Regards

 

[Engraver10]

I believe the scraper needs to remain sharp. OK to refine the factory edge but don't polish, it dulls the point. You aren't using it here to burnish that is what a burnished is for.

Thanks for the tip because I thought a lot about polishing mine and it's the only one I have.

 

[Engraver10]

best to avoid them in the first place. i think you should practice "popping out" just at the right time. this will eliminate the need for cleanup when finished. i've never done copperplate such as you show. not sure how i'd deal with

best to avoid them in the first place. i think you should practice "popping out" just at the right time. this will eliminate the need for cleanup when finished. i've never done copperplate such as you show. not sure how i'd deal with the issue.

I'll try to use your tip to jump faster with the burin, maybe that's the solution.

Thank you very much

 

[mdengraver]

Learn to roll your graver right near the end of your cut, the gradual changing of the angle and shallower cut will produce a natural smoothe transition to popping it out with a very thin corner. attachment of metal being released. Also cutting less deep, keeping graver nice and sharp should produce a clean release. You can always come in from the other direction if you want afterwards to even out your depth if you care to.

 

[mtlctr]

Thanks!!!
I'm going to try this technique, is there any burin profile format that helps not to leave so much burr. I used a single, square and diamond burin in this engraving for shallow and wide cuts.

Regards

Shouldn’t matter the shape.

 

[mdengraver]

From Sam Alfano taken from the cafe archive. Basically a shorter hee 1/4 mm will reduce heal drag to produce smoother cuts on curves. For straight lines a slightly longer heel will give you more control. In experienced hands the short heel should suffice.

[IMG alt="Sam"]https://engraverscafe.com/data/avatars/m/0/1.jpg?1529626148[/IMG]

Sam​

Chief Administrator & Benevolent Dictator​

Staff member

• Aug 1, 2007
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• #2

I like my gravers to be just long enough to go slightly past the end of my thumb when holding the handpiece.
Keep your heel very short. About 1/4mm is a good size to minimize heel drag. As you develop more control you'll also get less heel drag smoother cuts in tight curves.

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FL-Flinter​

Elite Cafe Member​

• Aug 1, 2007
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• #3

Sam,

Thanks for the heads-up on the heel length. I don't have a handpiece, I'm using a hammer.

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[IMG alt="Sam"]https://engraverscafe.com/data/avatars/m/0/1.jpg?1529626148[/IMG]

Sam​

Chief Administrator & Benevolent Dictator​

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• Aug 2, 2007
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• #4

Ah, ok. Heel length should still be very short (1/4mm). My chisel handles are about 5" long (wooden) and the gravers in them average about 2". The Belgian's use a longer steel handle, so I believe graver length for hammer & chisel isn't critical.

 

[Engraver10]

Shouldn’t matter the shape.

I'm always in doubt if I'm using the right format.
Thanks

 

[Engraver10]

From Sam Alfano taken from the cafe archive. Basically a shorter hee 1/4 mm will reduce heal drag to produce smoother cuts on curves. For straight lines a slightly longer heel will give you more control. In experienced hands the short heel should suffice.

[IMG alt="Sam"]https://engraverscafe.com/data/avatars/m/0/1.jpg?1529626148[/IMG]

Sam​

Chief Administrator & Benevolent Dictator​

Staff member

• Aug 1, 2007
• Add bookmark
• #2

I like my gravers to be just long enough to go slightly past the end of my thumb when holding the handpiece.
Keep your heel very short. About 1/4mm is a good size to minimize heel drag. As you develop more control you'll also get less heel drag smoother cuts in tight curves.

Like Reply
Report

F

FL-Flinter​

Elite Cafe Member​

• Aug 1, 2007
• Add bookmark
• #3

Sam,

Thanks for the heads-up on the heel length. I don't have a handpiece, I'm using a hammer.

Report

[IMG alt="Sam"]https://engraverscafe.com/data/avatars/m/0/1.jpg?1529626148[/IMG]

Sam​

Chief Administrator & Benevolent Dictator​

Staff member

• Aug 2, 2007
• Add bookmark
• #4

Ah, ok. Heel length should still be very short (1/4mm). My chisel handles are about 5" long (wooden) and the gravers in them average about 2". The Belgian's use a longer steel handle, so I believe graver length for hammer & chisel isn't critical.

Very useful your answer, it will help me a lot when shaping the heel.

Regards