Marian Sawby
Member
I would like information on how to inlay a raised gold border, including how to polish the knife bolster after inlaying raised features. Thanks, Marian Sawby
raised gold borders
- Thread starter Marian Sawby
- Start date
Marian, I too would like to know how to do this process. It seems like I was told once that the polish should be done before the gold is put in, but maybe I'm mistaking. Some one will know the answer on this forum.
Did you finish all your sample plates from Chris's class? If so how about posting them on here.
I'm still trying to buy one of your husbands knives.
Nice to hear from you.
Did you finish all your sample plates from Chris's class? If so how about posting them on here.
I'm still trying to buy one of your husbands knives.
Nice to hear from you.
Marain and Glen.
Here's how I do it, I'm sure others will have different methods.
Bring metal to a decent finish.
Cut the line for the border.
Undercut the the line on both sides, if wide add small teeth in the bottom.
Dress down any metal raised by the undercutting.
Finish the background metal to the desired degree of polish.
Carefully remove any debris or sanding dust from the channel.
Fully anneal the precious metal, gold, silver etc.
Select the precious metal to be 150-160% bulk in respect to the channel.
As in any inlay, make sure that the base material is firmly supported and does not bounce.
Tap in the precious metal using a light hammer or power graver with a lightly textured brass punch.
It is easier to work with the line North and South.
Start at the North and progress South towards yourself.
Use a smooth burnisher on the top of the line to remove the tap-in marks.
Be sure to stay on the raised line and not let the burnisher touch the base material.
Carefully make any trimming cuts required to control any "spread" of the line.
Make any side accent or shadow cuts beside the raised border.
Sit back and admire your handywork!!
Please note and warn your client that raise border work is easily damaged.
It requires extra special care.
Just my way, let's hear from some other folks.
John B.
Here's how I do it, I'm sure others will have different methods.
Bring metal to a decent finish.
Cut the line for the border.
Undercut the the line on both sides, if wide add small teeth in the bottom.
Dress down any metal raised by the undercutting.
Finish the background metal to the desired degree of polish.
Carefully remove any debris or sanding dust from the channel.
Fully anneal the precious metal, gold, silver etc.
Select the precious metal to be 150-160% bulk in respect to the channel.
As in any inlay, make sure that the base material is firmly supported and does not bounce.
Tap in the precious metal using a light hammer or power graver with a lightly textured brass punch.
It is easier to work with the line North and South.
Start at the North and progress South towards yourself.
Use a smooth burnisher on the top of the line to remove the tap-in marks.
Be sure to stay on the raised line and not let the burnisher touch the base material.
Carefully make any trimming cuts required to control any "spread" of the line.
Make any side accent or shadow cuts beside the raised border.
Sit back and admire your handywork!!
Please note and warn your client that raise border work is easily damaged.
It requires extra special care.
Just my way, let's hear from some other folks.
John B.
Last edited:
An after thought to Raised Gold Borders.
Raised gold borders are the last work to be completed on an engraving project IMO.
The channel can be cut ahead of time during the general engraving.
But the raised gold should be the last work installed on the piece.
John B.
Raised gold borders are the last work to be completed on an engraving project IMO.
The channel can be cut ahead of time during the general engraving.
But the raised gold should be the last work installed on the piece.
John B.
Marian Sawby
Member
John B. Thanks for your detailed response. I am interested in what type of burnisher you use for this. Thanks, Marian Sawby
Marian Sawby
Member
John B: Should have also asked if the raised borders are 24K. Marian
John pretty well covered the process. You can if need be do more polishing of the steel after the gold or silver has been smoothed but it takes a lot of time. Always wipe in one direction, based on the polishing of the rest of the gun. I learned a long time ago that if you make a chisel from spring brass (like in some light switches) you can work/trim/burnish the gold without marring the steel surface. This works on blued steel also. I once cut an inlay cavity and had it ready for gold wire inlay, then electroless nickel plated the gun and then put in the inlay wire. I worked the inlay with a brass chisel and tho a slow process as you have to continually reshape and sharpen the chisel, I never had a problem and the inlay came out just fine. I have not, however, tried that again. S
Hi Marian.
The borders go in very easily using 24K.
If you want a little more shine to the gold try 22K.
It goes in quite well, work hardens a little faster, about like .999 Silver.
The top of the gold line becomes a little work hardened from the tapping in.
I use a small, fine Gesswein die maker stone to remove this before burnishing.
Stay strictly on the top of the line and don't hit the base material.
Then burnish the top of the line in the long direction with a steel burnisher.
The burnisher can be any piece of very hard, polished steel.
Many of the small commercial burnishers will work.
Or one made from a large curved burlap bag needle or shaped, hardened and polished drill rod.
Hope this is some help. Best of luck with your project.
John B.
The borders go in very easily using 24K.
If you want a little more shine to the gold try 22K.
It goes in quite well, work hardens a little faster, about like .999 Silver.
The top of the gold line becomes a little work hardened from the tapping in.
I use a small, fine Gesswein die maker stone to remove this before burnishing.
Stay strictly on the top of the line and don't hit the base material.
Then burnish the top of the line in the long direction with a steel burnisher.
The burnisher can be any piece of very hard, polished steel.
Many of the small commercial burnishers will work.
Or one made from a large curved burlap bag needle or shaped, hardened and polished drill rod.
Hope this is some help. Best of luck with your project.
John B.
Last edited:
John: Thanks for the great posts. I've compiled them and added them to the Tips archive. You really are valuable asset. / ~Sam
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