Hello Bryn,
Couple of things to look into.
In your first posted design the two lower left scrolls have too long and nearly straight origin of the backbone.
Then the bottom center scroll is a large one originating from a smaller one.
This area needs some more thought and design from you, please.
Pachmayer also had a group of Japanese engravers working for them in the U. S. for awhile.
These Japanese engravers had previously studied engraving in both Germany and Belgium and tended to use that style in their work for Pachmayer and other American companies
This Model 12 could also be some...
If the initials are AJ it is not the work of Angelo Bee.
Angelo often signs with AB or sometimes with a capital "A" followed by a small engraved bee insect.
It does look a lot like the work of Angelo Bee, one of the FN Belgium engravers who emigrated to the U.S.
The dot background, the gold inlays and the leaf structure are typical of Angelo's work.
A better picture of the trigger guard area would be a help to see the signature.
I have no "for sure" idea but many of the leaf elements and the inlays look like the work of some of the Belgium engravers who emigrated to the U.S. in the '50's and 60's and 70's.
The prolific punch dot background also looks typical of their work.
But the single point shading, instead of liner...
Obviously I'm in no position to say which is the best printer for your use.
I would suggest you take some sheets of the film you intend to use to the place you intend to buy from and ask them to print you a test page, text or picture, in "Best Print", "Black ink only".
Then use the samples for...
Clean the metal with acetone to remove finger oil etc, and dry it.
Go into the the Ink Jet printer "settings" and order "Best Quality," Black Ink only."
Print on the rough side of the film
Apply Prismacolor Colorless Pen fluid or Print Magic to the area where you want the transfer to go to...
Sorry you had a failure, Mike.
Copper sheet inlay is difficult and needs closely spaced and sharp teeth to hold.
And as Sam said, copper needs a sharp hit to bite the burs and flow into the undercut.
You have the teeth too far apart, to much un-toothed metal between them!
And in my experience...
I would suggest that you open the blade and tape it well for safety.
Then insert some thin wood, like tongue depressors. in the blade space to give the knife scales solid support while undercutting or installing the inlay.
This will help to take any bounce out of the area and make the work more...