i got one of leonardos' scope lights as did the gold jockey. pricey, but nice on the eyes.
i cant say for sure, but he may have discontinued creating his lights. keep tryin to connect with him. he may still be producing them. there's more work in their creation than one would think.
looks interesting to me. i used to do spines in a distinct oval shape. anyone that got such from me was more than happy. i'm well aware that most here would stone me for that. that's ok. i like what i like, and if a recipient likes it, who the h cares ?? what you show here may be a total...
i agree with jb. the line from the ear down is quite harsh. however, a bit of creativity with the background could save the day. this is a very handsomme job imho.
i couldn't afford to pay for all i've learned here. i should bow and scrape before all those that have participated. and, naturally, the landlord and abigail for the work and expense of creating the forum and sustaining it.
quite interesting. esp to those of us that don't have the manual. tyvm for sending this. sometime ago a forum member had a few copies of the manual and sold them to the members. i was fortunate to have gotten one.
go to the outlet of choice. explain what you wish to do. most people in those venues will let you try a printer to see if it suits yer purpose. they have nothing to lose, perhaps a sale. that's good for their bottom line.
there should be half a ton of info in the tips section. check that out as...
not sayin that at all. look at the wondrous works by brian hochstradt. working the blades usually require annealing before engraving. this is no problem when one works for custom knifemakers. doing blades in their hardened state is just making life more difficult. the makers i worked for were...
i'm thinkin the scales shouldn't be too hard. but what do i know ? doing blades was the bugger for me. even in the annealed state, most blades i worked on were real cranky. that you show your efforts is a good thing. nobody was born with a pencil or graver in their hand. good work comes from...
i've been using an ancient hp ink jet for years. #92 black. prints acceptably well. sometimes there's a lag for as high as 3 months. never a clog. "knock on wood".
i made my own in the very beginning. that was due to total ignorance of what was available at the time. today, there's no reason at all to make your own. used ones on the bay is a good start. brand new ones are made to xacting standards and are a bargain right off.
there's a few that say homebrewed tools are a waste. a waste of time. i,m not one of them. you owe it to yerself to figger a way to attain a few of the basic geometries. once you can do that, that's what i call success without breaking the bank.
in my opinion the large, top scroll hijacks the "flow" in the design. i'd simply bring it out in the oppodsite direction. btw, your spines are very nicely drawn.
the foto may be tricking my eye, but it looks to be a bit wobbly. it should repeat the chosen geometry each time. i've always been a fan of creating something from nothing. as andrew mwntioned, if it works, no reason to not use it.
undercutting borders and cutting opposed "teeth" in the inlay area is one way. check the tip section. i think there's videos showing how this is done. there are surely videos on line showing this.
difficult to judge by the video, but i'd say you were going rather deeply for an inlay. good mtl. for practice is to use copper. properly annealed, it should give you all the practice needed, but at a lower price.