To clarify my comments...you could use even a good hard wood (such as maple) for the insert which would be easier to make. And I use my chasing hammer for setting the inlay so my "whack" is not as hard as it sounds.
For small sheet like that I use a flat polished stainless tool blank with handle that covers the whole inlay (laying flat across the inlay) and give it a good whack first time to set the inlay. After that a punch can be used to go over the area to insure a good set everywhere. I find the flat...
Make sure your burrs are strong, the copper as soft as you can get it and back the handle scale very solidly. It will take a fairly stiff blow to set the sheet. Also you want undercuts around the outline to help hold the edges of the inlay from being easily lifted. Backing the knife handle so...
Excellent...and congrats on the Master status. I assume that is electroless nickel plating?
I have used that a number of times and find it an excellent finish for fine engraving!
I appreciate all the compliments! Truly appreciate!
I am at 670 hours now with some small parts and 2 barrel bands to do yet. Hope that light at the end of the tunnel is not a freight train.
I have for many years used Ray's square carbide gravers. Love them. Luckily I have a couple of unopened packages (6 per) that will last me for a while yet.
As an added bit of info...I use the same green pin setup to clean gold lines when they get darkened by rust bluing. Just a light going over usually does the trick. The dulling of the gold is due to very fine particles of oxide embedding in the surface of the gold during the carding process of...
The case color hardening was very recently done and the polishing for detail accomplished prior to final assembly which was maybe three weeks ago. The parts were annealed prior to engraving and a lot of somewhat crude original engraving removed, mostly by mild steel inlay. The gold you refer...