It might come under another brand name.. museums use it for long term preservation without compromising the integrity of other finishes, patina ets..
look for something that is microcrystalline wax.. it is in a solution with some kind of solvent. Smells like petrol.. but probably naphtha
They make ones for hunting,, can actually use them for amplifying the sounds of your surroundings.. but they cut out anything over a certain DB. Are also Bluetooth for music.. i forget, but assume they will let in calls too.. i think axil is the brand.. but i dont think they are doing...
I will take a picture. I’m in the north carving wood right now. But if I get back home I will take some pictures, and try to find this thread again
one is a foredoom flex shaft. The other is an emesco belt driven dentist drill…. I prefer the emesco…tho I just busted a belt
My microscope...
Adjustable height (at least) for the part of your bench that supports your ball.
solid. I have frequent occasion to give something a whack. It’s nice if that doesn’t reverberate through the whole benchtop.
storage. You can’t have too much storage. But look at the height that drawers need to...
I’d say the plates are your budget solution, as you can get by with only a very few geometries.. could probably just do 90, I know many who rarely stray far from that….. even cheaper is to sharpen by eye..
There is an advantage to knocking the burr off the apex.. but other than that it depends if you want a bright finish or if you will blacken your lines. If blackening, prolly 600 is good
I’ve made Barlow lenses for my scopes before. For a Olympus.. and maybe the other one was even a Nikon.. can’t remember the exact specs, but I think it was a -3 corrective lens from an eye glasses place, fit into a pvc fitting that I reshaped to fit the objective. .. have done the same ...
Since you are working in fine silver you have no problem with enameling. It will take the heat of firing without oxidation.
to make it tight, you can shake your enamel on it, stone it down (perhaps exposing some fine silver highlights, and then refute, for a much tidier look.
renaissance wax is what you want.. tho it has a thinner in it that might effect you’re drawing on the copper, depending on what you use. . You can also just engrave until you are done and then clean your copper with an acid, or light buff, and then wax it after
I have that vise... I think it raises a bearing against the centre post, pulling the plates apart, and thus adjusting the drag on rotation... I think I’m right... but as such it’s sort of a two spead adjustment.
The most important tool to make your life easier as an engraver is not the power assisted engraver, and it is not eye enhancement. The most important tool is the engraving ball. It will increase your control. It will add weight behind the subject that you engrave, and it will make engraving...
It’s probably engraved , then stamped. To my eye the cross hatching looks raised, which would be the tell... the master would be hand engraved.
Working on something just like this right now