Avoiding oxidation/rust on mild steels

[AO84]

Non-stainless steels of course will rust. What do you like to use to finish a project that you dont blacken, and what do you like to use OTHER than Renaissance wax or mineral oil. I find Renaissance wax makes things cloudy, especially for brighter cuts ,and mineral oil has to be reapplied frequently. Thanks all!

 

[JJ Roberts]

A084 I have guns and gun parts around my shop in the white waiting to be engraved or restored and my favorite coating for keeping the steel from rust is Rig universal gun grease never have a problem with rust. J.J.

 

[Brant]

Like JJ I also use Rig, but I heat the parts with a Heatgun before I apply the grease.

 

[AO84]

Thanks for the recommendation re Rig. I will definitely get some of it. I should have been clearer-- I specifically am referring to the finishing stages. Say you've engraved the project and arent going to blacken or blue or electroplate etc. Is there anything recommended that helps avoid rust other than some mineral oil or Renaissance wax? I guess I'm wondering if there's a finishing compound that exists that essentially seals the steel but also keeps the luster of the cuts in tact and doesn't cloud things up.

 

[Leland Davis]

On engraved and color case hardened guns lacquer is applied to protect the colors. I don't know if it would do what you want but you could try it if you don't like it wipe away with laquer thinner.

 

[AO84]

Flintdoubles what brand /type lacquer? Thank you

 

[SamW]

I have never had trouble with Renaissance wax. For grayed engravings I mix a dab of lamp black into a bit of wax, wipe into the engraving and immediately buff. I put 2 to 3 coats thus then 2 or 3 coats without the lamp black. I think the trick is to buff immediately or it hardens to where it is hard to buff back to a thin coat. I have aluminum engravings 6 or 7 years old that are still nice and bright.

 

[AO84]

SamW what do you prefer to use to buff the Renaissance wax? If there are bright, deep cuts, I find the wax gets things cloudy and minimizes the luster

 

[papart1]

I coat with pbblaster and saturate a good paper towel and wrap the parts in both, this method was taught to me by an old machinist. Has never failed me.

 

[Dave London]

Glow coat floor wax MTC , small example

 

[SamW]

AO, I buff with a bounty paper towel, lightly. I don't do bright cut engraving per se so filling the cuts with wax/lamp black gives my work contrast. Not sure about your bright cuts but worth a try buffing quickly maybe with a soft cloth that would get into your cuts. Maybe the wax just won't work for your type engraving.

 

[AO84]

Thanks all. Very helpful info. Much Appreciated

 

[AO84]

Curious whether anyone has every tried a high gloss spray polyurethane? Just thinking outside the box.....

 

[monk]

on guns for just overnite till the next day--- common ole magic marker. never tried it long term. absolutely no good for that

 

[Flatsguide]

3 in 1 oil is an excellent anti rust oil. In a real life test it beat out renaissance wax which came out in second place. Quite a few well known rust preventative oils and greases were tried.
Cheers Richard

 

[Leland Davis]

AO84 I am using rustoleum specialty lacquer high luster right now but have used valspar high luster and got good results. Polyurethane will fill the cuts don't think you will like it.
good luck,Leland

 

[tdelewis]

When I apply Renaissance wax I thin it with lighter fluid. It is thick it will build up and doesn't rub out well. By thinning it, you can put a thin coat on the object and it will rub out to a high polish. If this is something like western bright cut it could build up in the cuts though.

 

[Mike Fennell]

I also use Renaissance wax.
For a permanent coating, Brownell's clear Alumahyde could work.