Question: Cast iron lap

Mike Cirelli

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Anyone with cast iron lap experiance.
I was wonder if the reason for using 14,000 mesh as per instructions instead of 50,000 is because it reduces the risk of scoring the surface. Or does anything less than 1 micron just screw up the surface?
 

Sam

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Mike: I have one and it's fantastic for sharpening and polishing carbide gravers. I use 50,000 mesh because that's what I have. I don't have the other one. No problems so far.
 

Arnaud Van Tilburgh

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I'm looking for one, Maxim from the Alexandre School will help me on this but he did not find one. I know there is one of Chris DeCamillis at the school, but not for sale unless...

arnaud
 

Brian Marshall

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Theresa,


GRS has them, far less expensive ($69) than the ceramic wheel at $188.

However, they do not work as well for HSS or the old carbon steel gravers... best for the carbide alloys - CMax, Carbalt, or NGravers carbide.

Iron laps are used in diamond cutting and polishing, they seem to work in conjunction with diamond abrasives on harder materials better than softer materials.


Brian Marshall
SJAS
Stockton, CA USA 95209
209-477-0550
instructor@jewelryartschool.com
 
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Kevin P.

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Crystalite Corporation makers of diamond laps make a 'master' lap. It's a proprietary metal used for the 'final' polish on stone. One charges it with 50,000 diamond compound.
It's a possible alternative if they still make them; mine is about 30 years old. I've used it to polish faceted stones; everything but diamond.

The one point in Chris' DVD that puzzles me is why mix 14,000 and 50.000 since the effect is you will have a 14,000 lap. I've been a stone cutter for a long time and one 'no-no' is to contaminate a lap. Each grit and lap is kept separate and sealed in a zip-lock. I mentioned this after getting his DVD; but got no response. Chris may have his reasons?
Kevin P.
 

RoycroftRon

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Mine formed scratches after I did one of the sides of a heel. I thought I had the angles wrong, but they were right. After I finished swearing because it was brand new and I thought I had ruined it, I continued to use it for a couple of sharpenings and it is producing a great finish polish on my cmax points.

So I am also anxiously waiting for a reply of one of you experienced engraver's out there... Is it normal?
 

Tim Wells

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Mike,
Scratches are normal, gouges are what will hurt it and it's easy to gouge them according to Shane and DJ. You have to be gentle with them and don't hog the graver into it and it'll be fine. When I use the ceramic I let the diamond spray dry on it because that's the way I was taught.

However, the cast iron works differently and is wet when you use it/charge it. The diamond particles sort of roll under the graver if you have too much is the way DJ explained it to me (Sam, you were sitting there listening to this so correct me if I'm not remembering this right) you don't want too much spray on it is the key so you have to play with it to teach yourself just how much to use and not to use.

I just sharpened a Cmax yesterday to cut some script initials and birthdates on a stainless Rolex back and it cut it like butter. It accepted a mirror finish from my ceramic alone so I can't wait to see what cast iron will do to it. I think I remembered all that right and hope I didn't steer you wrong.
 

Mike Cirelli

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Thanks Tim
What I understand about it is that the diamond compound or spray will actually impregnate itself into the iron lap on a ceramic it will roll on the surface.

I thought I wax getting a polished graver with the ceramic but this iron wheel polishes it like a razor.
 
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Tim Wells

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That makes sense and DJ did say that you "charge" the cast iron with the diamond spray and I think you just move the graver accross it lightly to charge? He also said how he got rid of too much on the surface but I forget how he did it.

I'm going to order one tomorrow myself. I'll ask those questions again when I call and report back here so anyone who wants it can have the info.
 
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