Engraving vise advice

[RoddyJB]

Engraving vise advice and brand/maker's name

I am a newcomer and posted a sort of introduction post just an hour or so ago looking for some advice. Strangely, just after I posted it, I heard about a round jeweler's engraving vise for sale. I got a pic of it which I will try to upload. Is this what i would need? Unfortunately, he says there are no accessories/pins with it? Apparently it is very heavy. The only markings on it is a sort of globe symbol. I am waiting to hear back on how much he wants for it. Anyone recognize the make or brand? Being retired & on a fixed income I can't afford to make a mistake or waste money so any advice would help. Thanks.

 

[Ed Westerly]

It is hard to tell for sure, but it looks like a functional vise. If you know how to make your own pins and fixtures for it, it will probably work just fine to start out. Just don't pay very much for it, as it is very likely you will out grow it fairly soon. I would also mention that the thrifty man ends up spending the most.

 

[jml]

you could always use Jett Set or thermo loc to hold your work. I would say post what he wants when you find out. the price might be comparable to a new GRS vice.

 

[dlilazteca]

Dont see a base for it

GunEngraver.com Guns, Knives & More

 

[RoddyJB]

Hi Ed,
I have no idea how to make pins or fixtures, I'll have to look for some.
Rod

 

[RoddyJB]

He said it weighs about 16-18lbs, I'll ask about a base.

 

[Chujybear]

i havent used my pins, or pin plate for ... ever, actually. i like to have my work dropped just that much closer to the centre of rotation. stick my stuff to varios bits of shaped wood and alluminum.

 

[Chujybear]

tho just recently, i wished for my pin plate, which i seem to have missplaced.. but that is once in 20 years.

 

[RoddyJB]

If you never use your pins or fixtures Chujybear, would you consider parting with any? If I do get this vise I'll need to get some accessories for it.

 

[sam]

Is the only photo you have a magnified close-up? Post some that show the entire vise so we can get a sense of what you have.

 

[tim halloran]

Roddyjb: I would be suspect of the threads in the jaws and the threaded shaft. Older vises often have excessive wear on those threads from many years of use and over tightening. This will cause the jaws to push apart at the top when you tighten them against an object. This will give you uneven pressure which could cause the object to work it's way up and out. GRS makes a replacement kit for their vises, which includes anew threaded shaft and threaded inserts for the jaws.This allows you to tighten up these tolerances and allows a lifetime of use. I would encourage you to consider quality over price, especially if you want to make a living with your equipment. I would ask this person why they are selling this vise, especially if it's seen many years of use. Caveat Emptor, may the buyer beware.

 

[RoddyJB]

This is the only pic I have till I hear from him again. He is away just now. I believe this was his father's who was a watchmaker or jeweler who retired years ago.

 

[speeedy6]

Roddy, most all the replies you've gotten are from pros that certainly know what they're talking about. I agree that quality tools are the best thing to use when you're making a living at what ever you are doing. That being said, since you said you are on a budget, let me suggest getting the right quality tools first. I just started engraving a couple of years ago. I bought a great ,precise sharpening system and high quality impact tool ( all Lindsay ) and a cheap ,drill press vise and a homebuilt turntable. I bought a used airbrush compressor that's very quiet and a cheap variable power microscope. These tools all still serve me well. I still look at and want the high quality tools and if I get better or start making money with this craft I will get them. But for now, I think well planned purchases of quality equipment will suit me best. Not just holding out for all the best. If I only purchased the best ,I wouldn't have most of the tools I do have. This stuff aint cheap ! I have a good set up now and will improve on it as my skill improves.

 

[BarryB]

I see that you are in Vancouver. If you pass on it, let me know, it's worth a drive up from Seattle, in my opinion, if the price is right.

Also, if you do buy the vise, I'm happy to make some pins for you if you really want them. My instructor doesn't use pins, he prefers, in almost every case, to mount his work with Thermo-Loc on a block of hardwood and then clamp the hardwood in the vise.

Here's the link to Thermo-Loc at GRS: http://www.grstools.com/workholding/thermo-loc/thermo-loc-sticks.html

 

[Chujybear]

Sure
I would part with the pins, if I can dig them up.
As far as tools go, I think the most critical is your vise. (Your cutting point is arguably as important, but cheap enough not to worry about). A pimp power graver with no vise is not going to do you much good.
And just to make a hypocrite of myself, I do clean up most of my castings free hand. And often when I travel, (and in early days) I shellacked my work to a piece of wood screwd into a piece of dowel with a rounded bottom. That rounded bottom can be pushed into a duvet in your bench, or a stump, or whatever happens to be around wherever you are. It limits your rotation to what you can turn in a motion with your hand... But then that is what you are supposed to do with a vise anyways. You can put a long post on it and even carve standing.

 

[RoddyJB]

Thanks Chujybear, I've sent you a PM
Rod

 

[Ed Westerly]

I use my pins quite a lot, especially for holding thin metal parts that would get lost in Thermoloc. I also use them as support beams inside of Thermoloc when I am holding a large piece that needs not to move at all. The weight specified sounds quite light if you are going to engrave gun parts, but should be fine for jewelry, etc.

 

[RoddyJB]

Chujybear,
Your PM won't take any messages.
Rod

 

[tdelewis]

An easy fixture is to cover the back of the object you want to engrave with painters tape. Then hot glue a small block of wood to the painters tape. Lock the wood block in the vice. You can remove the block with acetone but I just use a heat gun to soften the tape.

 

[Mike Fennell]

As Tim Halloran mentioned, vise jaws are built to be parallel, but age, stress and wear can distort them. I find that using leather or lead sheet between the jaws and the part you are engraving can alleviate this problem, so I am less concerned about age and wear on a vise.

Use age and wear as a negotiating point to get the price you can afford. Any vise is better than no vise. My first vise was half a bowling ball with a machinist's vise lag-bolted onto it. When you are learning and earning, you will eventually be able to afford your dream vise.

So far I have collected six vises ranging from small, ligthweight antique, heavy and shiny-new. Also three turntables. I use the heavies for big pieces, small for small pieces and for traveling and demonstrating. Each has its purpose, and they all perform well enough.

We all have to start somewhere and will all make mistakes along the way. If you buy it and don't like it, you may take a loss when selling it. Then again, you may love it.