Question: how do you finish a rolex?

simone.cervellati

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Feb 26, 2011
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Hi guys, i need to draw on your experiences as accomplished engravers
I am doing a job for a client and I have a few doubts on the finish i should apply when working on rolexes, well, fine watches in general.
naturally i should work as clean as possible, the steel of the watch leaves a bit of a burr though, not that i don't break them, but the "gummyness" of the 904L they use does show. cuts get a bit "warped" on the edges and in the area where the burr is broken.
Furthermore i will HAVE to re-finish the thing if the client asks for inlays.
I am wondering if i should finish the watch with fine emery or something of the sort, or if it is considered a bad practice, and in that case what should i use? how should i approach the direction of the lines when doing so?
looking forward to your tips and tricks and thanks to everyone in advance!
Simone
 

BCan

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sam

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I would finish with 1000 or 1200 paper to debur the work, then do the shading and hopefully not have to debur it again. I wouldn't worry about trying to replicate Rolex's polished or brushed finishes. I would do what l think makes the engraving look its best.
 

monk

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i'll bet a dollar that andrew biggs will answer this if he is awake.
 

Andrew Biggs

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I hear what you are saying with the burrs :)

800 grit for the burrs for the main cuts
Followed by 1200 grit after shading cuts
Do not use lubricant and back automotive grit paper up with something solid.
Then green polishing paper rubbed over using fingers. You can then follow with blue and pink if you want.
This leaves a beautiful low sheen that enhances the engraving.

For highly polished areas not engraved I use a rotary buffing wheel. This can add a nice contrast with the low sheen engraved areas.

Sam is correct.......do what makes the engraving look best

Cheers
Andrew
 
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I saw your post while looking for something myself. Finishing Rolexes can be tricky with that 904L steel.
 
Last edited:
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I’ve worked with fine watches like Rolexes too, and the burrs from the 904L steel can be tricky. For finishing, I’ve found that using very fine emery paper or a polishing wheel with a fine compound can help smooth out those edges without affecting the detail.Regarding inlays, you’ll need to re-finish the area to match the rest of the watch. Make sure to follow the lines of the existing finish to blend everything seamlessly. I’ve also looked into the best richard mille replica out there. It’s fascinating to see how closely some of them can mimic the original finishes.
 

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