How to improve the attached-- all input welcome thanks

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Thread starter #4
don't hold back: what do you like, dislike, would you add shading to some of the areas the tendrils grow out of? Etc...
 

papart1

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#5
generally....it's o.k. but I am no position to critize. I leave the real consructive stuff to the big boy's. The biggest thing I see is your practise plate, surface needs to be 4-600 all over, too many nicks, scratches and inperfections, I kept learning the hard way to. Some times I feel I still am. paps
 

T.G.III

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#6
I'm with Paps on this, I know what I see and what I'm looking at, but I'm in no position to put it into words, the pros are whats needed here as they are instructing versus picking things apart.

I would suggest this book as a great place to work from, perfect each part before moving on to the other parts.....



KIMG1793.JPG
 

monk

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#9
you can find a lot of stuff by sam alfano right here. you see, he's the guy that owns this forum. the guy we all pay homage to every night. no distractions from him, as his videos and info are straight to the point with no glitter or fluff. even engraving as a hobby will take much practice and applied effort on your part. becoming a pro, well, it's sort of like getting married; such never works without total commitment.
 

AllenClapp

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#11
generally....it's o.k. but I am no position to critize. I leave the real consructive stuff to the big boy's. The biggest thing I see is your practise plate, surface needs to be 4-600 all over, too many nicks, scratches and inperfections, I kept learning the hard way to. Some times I feel I still am. paps
You bring up an interesting point about first getting the practice plates to 400 to 600 grit, so that the engraving shows up well and similar to what it would look like on a finished article. I have been using a Magswitch switchable magnet I got at Woodcraft to click onto steel plates and scrap to rub the plates across oiled sandpaper. It works like a charm. Unfortunately, this doesn't work on brass or some types of stainless steel or other metals to which a magnet will not adhere. Do you have suggestions for how to polish flat practice plates without a lot of fuss and bother?
 

monk

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#13
use a bit of hot melt glue. glue the plate onto a smaller block of wood. put a few drops of water on a known flat such as plate glass. then apply a sheet of wet/or dry paper of the correct grit. unless you're using heavy pressure, the paper will adhere to the glass. this has worked for me. when done, a bit of isopropyl alkohaul will free the piece.
 

papart1

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#14
i have used clay also............but you'll have to work the clay so it's nice and smooth and supple, one drop of olive/fegy oil helps....ONE
 

thughes

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#15
Cover the back of the plate with blue painters tape, then use double-stick tape to stick it to a block of wood and sand away. Hit it with a heat gun for a few min to get it off. The blue tape is not required, but the really good double-stick tape can be a B#$%& to get off.
 

AllenClapp

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#16
Cover the back of the plate with blue painters tape, then use double-stick tape to stick it to a block of wood and sand away. Hit it with a heat gun for a few min to get it off. The blue tape is not required, but the really good double-stick tape can be a B#$%& to get off.
Great point about double-stick tape issues. Thank goodness WD-40 will remove most glues from glass, metal, or plastic.
 

WRG

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#20
You have a good start, you just need to continue what you have begun and carefully smooth some of the lines out. The attached image is what your plate could look like with some more time and effort.
AO84Engraving.jpg
 
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