How to improve the attached-- all input welcome thanks
- Thread starter AO84
- Start date
AO84
Member
Context: random scroll design I drew/cut. Trying to, obviously, improve.
AO84
Member
don't hold back: what do you like, dislike, would you add shading to some of the areas the tendrils grow out of? Etc...
generally....it's o.k. but I am no position to critize. I leave the real consructive stuff to the big boy's. The biggest thing I see is your practise plate, surface needs to be 4-600 all over, too many nicks, scratches and inperfections, I kept learning the hard way to. Some times I feel I still am. paps
I'm with Paps on this, I know what I see and what I'm looking at, but I'm in no position to put it into words, the pros are whats needed here as they are instructing versus picking things apart.
I would suggest this book as a great place to work from, perfect each part before moving on to the other parts.....
I would suggest this book as a great place to work from, perfect each part before moving on to the other parts.....
I find myself easily distracted while surfing the net.................
you can find a lot of stuff by sam alfano right here. you see, he's the guy that owns this forum. the guy we all pay homage to every night. no distractions from him, as his videos and info are straight to the point with no glitter or fluff. even engraving as a hobby will take much practice and applied effort on your part. becoming a pro, well, it's sort of like getting married; such never works without total commitment.
AllenClapp
Elite Cafe Member
You bring up an interesting point about first getting the practice plates to 400 to 600 grit, so that the engraving shows up well and similar to what it would look like on a finished article. I have been using a Magswitch switchable magnet I got at Woodcraft to click onto steel plates and scrap to rub the plates across oiled sandpaper. It works like a charm. Unfortunately, this doesn't work on brass or some types of stainless steel or other metals to which a magnet will not adhere. Do you have suggestions for how to polish flat practice plates without a lot of fuss and bother?
Jim Disbrow
Member
I sometimes use a valve hand lapping grinding tool. It usually works but must be clean to get good suction.
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valve lapping tool.png
use a bit of hot melt glue. glue the plate onto a smaller block of wood. put a few drops of water on a known flat such as plate glass. then apply a sheet of wet/or dry paper of the correct grit. unless you're using heavy pressure, the paper will adhere to the glass. this has worked for me. when done, a bit of isopropyl alkohaul will free the piece.
Cover the back of the plate with blue painters tape, then use double-stick tape to stick it to a block of wood and sand away. Hit it with a heat gun for a few min to get it off. The blue tape is not required, but the really good double-stick tape can be a B#$%& to get off.
AllenClapp
Elite Cafe Member
Great point about double-stick tape issues. Thank goodness WD-40 will remove most glues from glass, metal, or plastic.
yes tg...........i do too, always wanting to go back to the block!!!
or pencil
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