Martin Strolz
Elite Cafe Member
Layout, print and transfer
Sam, I heard of the beeswax method from Winston a few years ago, but actually do not use it.
I use modeling clay to produce a thin matte coat on the surface on which I can draw. The clay should not be too soft, nor contain too much fat. Otherwise, if you have to do much corrections it creates thick layers and smears around your pencil.
If a job has to be repeated, or for documentation purposes, a print or pull of the finished engraving is a good thing, however it will produce a mirrored image. A print is most useful when complex symmetrical ornamental motifs are engraved. The process is to draw the left half first, then engrave and print it, after that transfer it and go on working with the right half of the motif.
If a certain layout has to be drawn symmetrical on both sides of a fine gun a print is extremely helpful because it is mirrored already!
Making a print
o Clean the engraving using kerosene
o Apply printers ink with your middle finger tip until the plate is black except for the engraving
o Lay calendar or art print paper onto the plate, both of these are a high gloss paper.
o Rub with a soft pencil lead
o Lift the print carefully to prevent smudging
o Clean your plate again with kerosene
Printing the surface of an engraving always gives a result with white lines against a dark background.
Transferring
To transfer the mirrored layout on other half, that area must be coated with a very thin layer of printers ink. When the print is set into position properly it can be secured with tape at the corners.
Then trace the lines carefully with the rounded point scriber. Upon removal of the print the lines are visible against the dark background, because the graphite of the pencil on the backside of the print has lifted the printers ink away from the surface of the metal.
Then scribe on the steel and clean the part.
There are different ways of transferring a design to another item or spot, but this one is easily done.
Enclosed a scanned print of a grip cap, 1,87 x 1,44 inch
Best regards, Martin
Sam, I heard of the beeswax method from Winston a few years ago, but actually do not use it.
I use modeling clay to produce a thin matte coat on the surface on which I can draw. The clay should not be too soft, nor contain too much fat. Otherwise, if you have to do much corrections it creates thick layers and smears around your pencil.
If a job has to be repeated, or for documentation purposes, a print or pull of the finished engraving is a good thing, however it will produce a mirrored image. A print is most useful when complex symmetrical ornamental motifs are engraved. The process is to draw the left half first, then engrave and print it, after that transfer it and go on working with the right half of the motif.
If a certain layout has to be drawn symmetrical on both sides of a fine gun a print is extremely helpful because it is mirrored already!
Making a print
o Clean the engraving using kerosene
o Apply printers ink with your middle finger tip until the plate is black except for the engraving
o Lay calendar or art print paper onto the plate, both of these are a high gloss paper.
o Rub with a soft pencil lead
o Lift the print carefully to prevent smudging
o Clean your plate again with kerosene
Printing the surface of an engraving always gives a result with white lines against a dark background.
Transferring
To transfer the mirrored layout on other half, that area must be coated with a very thin layer of printers ink. When the print is set into position properly it can be secured with tape at the corners.
Then trace the lines carefully with the rounded point scriber. Upon removal of the print the lines are visible against the dark background, because the graphite of the pencil on the backside of the print has lifted the printers ink away from the surface of the metal.
Then scribe on the steel and clean the part.
There are different ways of transferring a design to another item or spot, but this one is easily done.
Enclosed a scanned print of a grip cap, 1,87 x 1,44 inch
Best regards, Martin