Question: Lettering

[SharpGraver]

A while back I think I remember (I'm getting senile) someone talking acout finishing corners on block letters by plunging some type of graver into the corners of the letters before cutting the letters themselves. Can any one give me some info on the type of graver or direct me to the post because I am unable to find it.

Thanks
David

 

[Sam]

David: You might check my script lettering video on YouTube. While it's not block, the squaring cuts used to finish the bar cuts can certainly be used on block letters. Make 'em large and they can become a serif. Make 'em small and they square up the tops and bottoms of block letters. I cut them last, not first, but I don't see a problem with cutting them first (but haven't tried it).

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

Sam, I already saw this video but only now I noticed you but some wax? On the plate before drawing on it.
I suppose you pencil is a hard one (H9) but I don’t know about the that what you put on the plate using your fingers?
I found this in your Tutorials: beeswax & tallow, talcum

arnaud

 

[Sam]

Arnaud: Yes, I use transfer wax (beeswax & tallow) for layout with a 9H pencil.

 

[aramis gulbeyan sr]

cuting block letters

here is some info about cuting block letter see attacment

 

[KCSteve]

David

Were you at this year's Engrave-In? I'm blanking on his name but the gentleman who demo'd cutting dies uses a punch to make his corners. He drives it in on the corners to give a clean end, then cuts the lines from corner to corner.

 

[Arnaud Van Tilburgh]

Okay Sam, I found it :big grin:

Sam Alfano’s Transfer Wax
I will order one in Antwerp

arnaud

 

[SharpGraver]

Thank You for all of the information. No I was unable to attend the engrave in this year but am hopeing to next year
David

 

[Tim Wells]

I think that video you are thinking of is one of Steve Lindsay cutting the lettering on a flute. He used to cut a lot of the same company logo's on these gold flutes so he made a little flat that he used to make all the flat ends of the letters so they'd all be crisp and the same size.

Also, like Sam taught us in a tutorial, when you cut a line intersecting into another line the chip at the end has someplace to go and will break off clean; that was the other reason for doing that pre-cut flat end to the letter.

It may be on youtube or on his site someplace, I haven't seen it in years so you'd have to hunt for it.

 

[Sam]

Here's an example of vintage watch lettering. Check out the cuts used to form serifs.

 

[SharpGraver]

Thank You Sam and Tim. That is the information I was looking for
David

 

[Kevin P.]

The letters have a nice 3D quality.
Kevin

 

[Tim Wells]

Sam, back years ago before I started engraving when I would buy an old one like that to fix up, I'd avoid the ones with personalized engravings on them.

I now think that may have been a mistake, they would or could be a good resource for lettering study on how they were cut... this is a prime example.

 

[Sam]

Well, I bought this one just for the engraving. It has no guts and has a little photo under the crystal. When I turned it over and saw the engraving I knew I had to have it. I paid just a few dollars and the junk store guy was happy to get rid of it.

You're right...great study for sure. There's tons of old engraving out there, but once in awhile you see something done by an especially artful eye and masterful hand.

 

[handengraver]

Benevolent Grand Master and Dictator,

Thanks for showing the engraved watchback picture. In earlier days this was the daily standard for watches, and the remarkable part of it is the engraver's use of the compasses and the ruler in the design. Most likely this kind of job was to be completed in a reasonable (or even shorter) time frame in large workshops, where engravers sit shoulder to shoulder at the long workbenches...

Concerning the original question, the engraving of the date is a good example of the little sharp triangular cuts that finish and give the exquisite appearance to those numbers. We called those square cuts or squaring, it is done by flat tools. When properly cut, it gives a typical "pim" sound at lifing the tool. The shape of such cut should be that of an even sided right angle triangle.The cut should start on the base or bottom line of the vertical stroke of the letter, and with the same logic on the other cuts.

Greetings - Ivan

 

[Tim Wells]

Well, I bought this one just for the engraving. It has no guts and has a little photo under the crystal. When I turned it over and saw the engraving I knew I had to have it. I paid just a few dollars and the junk store guy was happy to get rid of it.

You're right...great study for sure. There's tons of old engraving out there, but once in awhile you see something done by an especially artful eye and masterful hand.

I may have a movement that'll fit that case. If I do you can have it and overhaul it yourself or I'll do it for you. Just an offer you can avail yourself of when and if you get around to it.

 

[angusga]

That watch is exactly what I am trying to get at for lettering. Are there any tutorials or videos on this kind of block lettering. I have copy's of a couple of texts on lettering. But as is so common with older writing styles much of the description is Greek to me. (No offense, I just don't speak Greek). I have a copy of Steve Lyndsey's flute video and it is very helpful. Sam, Your video on script helps just as you indicated, as it shows the use of the flat in squaring up.
Any guidance would be much, much appreciated.
Gordon