Noob update

[Indy Joneds]

So ive built ...something. it kind of works so , led lights as advised and its heavy too , the lazy susan bearings thig works ok , could be smoother but all in time i guess. ive made about 5 -6 different attempts at gravers , ive reduced the graver blanks down to 2.5 mm from 4mm i think and that helped save time so thanks. I made a template to hold the graver while i shrpen , that i think is the biggest difference i noticed in how well it cut . I have decided to start with push graving for a while before i can afford a good vice and the no noise means i can do it late into the evenings as i like , i would still like to practice getting the hammer an chisel gravers right , but for now the push graver is the problem.

I watched loads of videos inc sams and used another source to make a graver holder template thing.. im not sure all the angles are right. but i adjusted slightly and have a graver that cuts but whenever i try to do straight lines , i get about 10mm then it just flys out ? if i wiggle it side to side as i push i can get maybe a bit further but it is not a clean cut if i wiggle i guess. The face of the graver is inbetween 35 to 40 degrees and that is just say 3mm from the tip then it goes back to say 30 degrees for the rest of the face, and the heels i guess? the two angles at the bottom are about 10 degrees and they extend back about 6mm . do i need to put another heel on top of this right at the tip for a mm or 2 or change the angle or reduce the length of the heel ? Thanks for any help

 

[Chujybear]

Secondary heal, if parralel, more like 1/2 a mm.
If wedge shaped, will be a mm ish.

 

[Roger Bleile]

If that plate is steel, you are trying to cut too deeply with a burin. People engraving western silver with a flat graver can cut pretty deep but they mainly lay over a flat graver that makes it look deep. A square graver being pushed is for fine work.

 

[Indy Joneds]

its all brass plates , sum of the engraving has bin done with hammer and chisel , just using same plates .

its a 120 ish degree graver face

chujybear what do you mean by parrel and wedge ? my heal ( i think ) is the two 10 degree angles on the under side of the graver and they go back about 60mm . are you saying that they should only be a mm long or half a mill ? wedge shaped ? i have tried a small heal but that was for hammer and chisel and it was no good for push graving . but i am open to surjestions . thanks

 

[monk]

not trying to be rude, or negative here. you need to get a looseleaf . look in the tips section on tool sharpening and geometry. start taking notes. no matter which approach you take hammer, push, or power assist- graver sharpening must be done in such way that your angles are all the same. time after time. without consistency in the geometry, your efforts at cutting will be less than desirable. you don't need to sink a ton of money on a sharpening system, but you must devise a way to do it consistently. there's also videos on line. take a look at it all.

 

[Chujybear]

Yes. If they are the heel, they are short. If it's going back 60mm, it is just the shape of your tool.

 

[sam]

If you're engraving with hammer & chisel I would encourage you to watch the demonstration video I made which is in the Tips Archive. It shows how I freehand sharpen and how to cut with hammer & chisel.

 

[Indy Joneds]

ok thanks bear