Good grief...I hate seeing a good thread turn to crap, so I'll just pretend like I didn't see some of the previous posts. 
Question: Polishing a piece before engraving
- Thread starter Idaho Flint
- Start date
Tim Wells
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Turnbull Restorations has a dvd on metal prep which I bought years ago to get me started. It is a very basic demonstration on various guns that they typically get to restore.
As such, it is geared more toward restoring the finish to factory correct standards such as the level of grit used and in what direction. If you're going to engrave it you'd have to go past where they leave off in the dvd. But, it does a good job showing techniques to keep round parts round, flat parts flat, and not washing out screw holes and lettering.
As such, it is geared more toward restoring the finish to factory correct standards such as the level of grit used and in what direction. If you're going to engrave it you'd have to go past where they leave off in the dvd. But, it does a good job showing techniques to keep round parts round, flat parts flat, and not washing out screw holes and lettering.
Texasgerd
Elite Cafe Member
JJ:
I just sent you a PM.
This thread has me re-thinking how bad of a job I've been doing (but thought it was right!).
Sam: you guys really know how to knock this novice back a few steps and get us to the right track. THANK YOU!
Dan
I just sent you a PM.
This thread has me re-thinking how bad of a job I've been doing (but thought it was right!).
Sam: you guys really know how to knock this novice back a few steps and get us to the right track. THANK YOU!
Dan
Gun prep is something that's not discussed enough, Dan. You see so many guns engraved with little or no attention to preparation. Of course it's very labor intensive and you must charge accordingly.
Betley Park's post hit the nail on the head talking about flat surfaces and straight lines. You think it's flat and you think it's straight, but upon close examination you see that it's not. So if you run a gold border down the side of a Colt slide that's not straight, the gold border with follow that crooked edge and you'll look like an amateur. So you must file it by hand to make it straight while retaining a crisp, sharp edge and not rounded off. Easy to say, not so easy to do. It takes time and patience to make it perfect. Same with corners. They must be crisp, sharp, and true, and not rounded or smoothed off like a production finish.
Engravers working on high-end custom guns and British guns have it a lot easier since those guns leave the factory properly prepared and finished.
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
"<Engravers working on high-end custom guns and British guns have it a lot easier since those guns leave the factory properly prepared and finished.">
That's one (of a couple) reasons why I don't engrave many guns. I don't like doing the prep work myself, because I always wind up taking way too much time on it.
Maybe I'll try sending it out. To JJ for a start?
B.
That's one (of a couple) reasons why I don't engrave many guns. I don't like doing the prep work myself, because I always wind up taking way too much time on it.
Maybe I'll try sending it out. To JJ for a start?
B.
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Southern Custom
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
When people ask me how gun finishing is done, I always say the same thing.
There's no magic to it. It's exactly how you would think it's done. The hard way.
There are very few short cuts. A polishing motor in the wrong hands can destroy untold hours of otherwise well finished metal work. As a jeweler, there are a few tools I can use to speed up some processes but 99% of it is the old fashioned way. A lot of sweat and dust.
You only need 3 tools. Files, paper on wood backing, and stones. That and a whole lot of time and a good eye.
It's not hard to see if a surface is flat or an edge is true or a curve is round. I've never seen a factory gun that was ready to go. That includes some semi custom 1911s I've had.
I'd suggest starting with some steel stock. Tubing, angle, sheet. Once you are comfortable with that and getting good results, find an old beater pistol or long gun and have at it. The only real way to learn if you don't have a mentor is trial by fire.
Enjoy the process and take pride in a job well done! It really makes the difference.
Layne
There's no magic to it. It's exactly how you would think it's done. The hard way.
There are very few short cuts. A polishing motor in the wrong hands can destroy untold hours of otherwise well finished metal work. As a jeweler, there are a few tools I can use to speed up some processes but 99% of it is the old fashioned way. A lot of sweat and dust.
You only need 3 tools. Files, paper on wood backing, and stones. That and a whole lot of time and a good eye.
It's not hard to see if a surface is flat or an edge is true or a curve is round. I've never seen a factory gun that was ready to go. That includes some semi custom 1911s I've had.
I'd suggest starting with some steel stock. Tubing, angle, sheet. Once you are comfortable with that and getting good results, find an old beater pistol or long gun and have at it. The only real way to learn if you don't have a mentor is trial by fire.
Enjoy the process and take pride in a job well done! It really makes the difference.
Layne
Choppers_rule
Elite Cafe Member
So how do you guys give an accurate quote to the client before seeing the canvas/ metal in person?
Chopper-rule,I only give a quot after I see the parts to be polished. I'm thinking of adding prep to my class. J.J.
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rmgreen
Elite Cafe Member
NEVER make a final quote of work unseen by your own eyes. Most photographs are not detailed enough to go by either. I quote metal finishing unseen with a base or starting price and emphasis that most finished products will be above the base price. The first price turns off the uneducated. Those who know expect to pay.
Texasgerd
Elite Cafe Member
JJ
Just a class on prep (real prep) would be worth my time.
I'm also going to REALLY look at some custom English S/S for what Sam highlighted.
".....crisp, sharp, and true, and not rounded or smoothed off like a production finish."
I thought I was picky but I'm really second guessing myself now.
My wife will love this as I have spend more time in my cave.
Dan
Just a class on prep (real prep) would be worth my time.
I'm also going to REALLY look at some custom English S/S for what Sam highlighted.
".....crisp, sharp, and true, and not rounded or smoothed off like a production finish."
I thought I was picky but I'm really second guessing myself now.
My wife will love this as I have spend more time in my cave.
Dan
mitch
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2007
- Messages
- 2,651
once the piece in question is in hand, one must occasionally inform the client that circumstances have changed. tactfully, without coming right out and saying their precious gun or knife is a POS and its maker should be shamed in the public square.
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Yep, that happens...
B.
B.
First time poster, and new guy to the forum,and I have a question. In the past I have had to make several and I mean a pile of sanding blocks of varying configurations to suite my needs. But the problem is attaching sand paper to a piece of metal or wood and be able to replace it quickly.
I have tried to use various contact cement's which takes longer to apply than it takes to wear out the paper. Then most of the time you cant get the old paper off of the block without leaving bits and pieces of paper stuck to your sanding block.
If anyone could recommend an adhesive that works, fairly well I would be surely interested.
thanks D
I have tried to use various contact cement's which takes longer to apply than it takes to wear out the paper. Then most of the time you cant get the old paper off of the block without leaving bits and pieces of paper stuck to your sanding block.
If anyone could recommend an adhesive that works, fairly well I would be surely interested.
thanks D
oiseau metal arts
Elite Cafe Member
D Smith,Just cut the wet & dry paper to fit the block then wrap it around the block,I never use glue.
J.J.
J.J.Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
Try finding "old fashioned" rubber cement? Works fine on my sanding sticks...
I also make sticks for hand polishing metals and burnished wax models using hard felt.
Brian
I also make sticks for hand polishing metals and burnished wax models using hard felt.
Brian
Lonestarr
Elite Cafe Member
D I had the same problem with 3m spray glue, what I did and still do is to use a heat gun to heat as you pull the old paper. This leaves a sticky surface which will stick to lightly sprayed paper nicely...As far as speed make up a lot of blocks and recharge several at a time...also as JJ suggests for non glue use you can use blocks with nerfs cut into the ends of the blocks to wedge the paper in....
Bob
Bob
For years I have used 3/4" double sided tape. I make standing sticks from 3/4" pine about 1/4" thick, put two pieces of double sided tape on the wood, and then wrap the sandpaper around the stick and trim with a knife. So it's wrapped on 3 sides.
gcleaker
Elite Cafe Member
back in the day
when i worked for a small company named Sterling arms in Western NY. our finish line ran in this manner. when all parts were completed they went into a stone vibrater for deburing, smaller parts went to the glass beader and then onto a sanding line and then blueing. frames and slides went on to sanding line and the buffing. we had four different sanding grits before anything went to buffing, I just do not remember how many buffing levels we had, it seems to be four or five levels then they were blued or if stainless on to the assembly line. we did not have any engravers their as we made a quality gun at a good pricing point. i guess what i am saying is if you think you have taken all of the steps to prep your surface better look again. and i use a spray adhesive on paint stir sticks, real cheap to buy. i do hope i helped a little.
:bow:don't drink and drive you might spill your drink
when i worked for a small company named Sterling arms in Western NY. our finish line ran in this manner. when all parts were completed they went into a stone vibrater for deburing, smaller parts went to the glass beader and then onto a sanding line and then blueing. frames and slides went on to sanding line and the buffing. we had four different sanding grits before anything went to buffing, I just do not remember how many buffing levels we had, it seems to be four or five levels then they were blued or if stainless on to the assembly line. we did not have any engravers their as we made a quality gun at a good pricing point. i guess what i am saying is if you think you have taken all of the steps to prep your surface better look again. and i use a spray adhesive on paint stir sticks, real cheap to buy. i do hope i helped a little.
:bow:don't drink and drive you might spill your drink
Buy one each bags of popsicle sticks, tongue depressors and some paint stir sticks. Coat the back of each grit of paper you will use with Elmer's glue and arrange the desired size sticks on the paper. Put something flat like a book on the sticks and let the glue dry. If you want double sided sticks, flop the now dry piece onto another sheet coated with glue and repeat. When everything is dry, cut them out with an Xacto knife. You can make enough of these at once to last a long time and they are disposable. If you want shapes, you can still place the glue sticks against a belt sander or grinder and shape them how you want.
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