Power Gravers

Mike Cirelli

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hence you can work for longer periods without getting so tired.

Marcus I have to disagree slightly.

As I get older I find that it helps me get my work done faster so I have more time to chill out:)
 

Phil Coggan

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I don't know about you Mike but my pc is right by the side of me where I work and it's so easy to log in to something and there's half an hour gone in five minutes!

Phil
 

Mike Cirelli

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I know what you mean Phil. Sometimes I think these computers can be an addiction a healthy one though. What would be nice is if the world would go to a 36 hour day instead of 24. Maybe then I could get 8 hours of sleep in.
 

Danny C

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Nov 10, 2006
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Anaheim
I'm not trying to do the "Mine is Better than Yours" thing. But the question was asked.

The ease of use, power, control and finesse of the Palm Control really can't be beat. It really is all in the tool itself. All it needs is air of any kind, from 60 psi to 20 psi.

I'm not putting down GRS, they are a fine tool, there just happens to be one better, and its not just my opinion.

No tool is better than the operator, but some are easier to use. And that goes with the question.

A great "metal scratcher" really does improve with better tools.

Chisel - Hammer & Chisel - NGraver - GRS - Lindsay

Eye watering work has been done with each of them - but it is a progressive line.

The more intuitive the tool "use" the better the engraver - doesn't have to think about 2 things at the same time.

I mean NO DISRESPECT to any kind of tool user, its the Masters Hand that creates the work, not the tool.
 

Mike Bissell

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Marcus - I couldn't agree with more on your last post. I find that since the advent of the Quick change collets one can change gravers in seconds. When excavating an area for an inlay I may end up with 3 or 4 different gravers/collets in my left hand and the change over goes rather fast.

Mike
 

Sam

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Danny C: Would you consider sharing some photos of your work with us? You joined in Nov 2006 and your first post was in this thread.
~Sam
 

Lee

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I woke up this morning and found out once again I'm doing a lot of things wrong. It must be the farmer in me. Now I find out I'm supposed to use more than one graver. I cut a line with a 90, lay it on it's side to act somewhat like a flat, stand it up to stipple.......on the farm I thought I could use a crescent wrench for any wrench, hammer, or punch. ....and I did.:D Now I read there's a progression for tools just when I was thinking I should go back to my homemade hammer and handpiece so I can engrave like Phil, Winston, and Firmo. I suppose my homemade hammer isn't the right brand. Maybe I can ask the others which one they use.:D :D :D Oh what's the use another art class will probably do me more good.
 

FANCYGUN

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Lee
My hammer is custom made by me to fit the palm of my hand and balance like a fine gymnast on a beam. Not as good looking though. But the handle is curly maple and not sure if crotch walnut would be better and soften the blows a bit. Maybe pine would have a little more give to it
 

pappy

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Big power graver

I think Steve Lindsay made a really heavy duty airgraver a few years back, people said it was best used for engraving stainless elevator doors. I used to do small molds from time to time, and I used chisels. Later when I started learning engraving I got a Grs Gravermach, and with the Magnum handpiece I can take a cut about .062deepx.125 wide in 4130 with 1 pass, using 100 deg. v graver. I guess it depends on the size of what you're working on. It would have helped me then. Why dont you call Steve Lindsay and ask him about his heavy duty airgraver. He has training as a tool and die maker, and I'll bet he could help you out.
 

Danny C

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Nov 10, 2006
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Sam
Here is a Lighter I did for my brother "G". It is a relatively rare COPPER ZIPPO. Because of the copper "pattern", it only lends itself to bold patterns without too much shading, as the background is so mottled (on purpose).

I've also posted my workshop (others have liked the "small" setup), so, maybe some may think of ideas for their own small space.

Just below the Mirror is the Lindsay Controller. The manifold supples air to it and other items. The clear large air hose Next to the Filter, is the area blow off line.







 
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Sam

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That's the first copper zippo I've seen. Didn't know they much such a lighter. I'd still be tempted to shade and blacken the engraving, but I understand what you mean about the mottled coloring in the copper. You might also consider deeply brightcutting selected lines in the monogram.

Thanks for posting the photos. I'm guessing monk will add the engraving shot to our Photo Gallery. Thanks for sharing with us.
~Sam
 

Danny C

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Yup, know what you mean about "brightcutting" some lines. Kinda a design decision. This simple Letter almost became a nuisance! Because of the mottled background, what kind of letter, How much shading (if any) "Shading" line widths. On and ON, I finally just made it simply complex. Also, after cutting it, decided that Bright Shading on some lines would have been better (too late to fix - Christmas Present) - Next Time!!

Do a Google search for Copper Zippo to find some.
 
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Andrew Biggs

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Danny

This thread is actually quite old. It was first posted on 7th Feb 2007 and got restarted a couple of weeks ago.

I suspect the answer has well and truley been given over the last year in various threads throughout the forums.

Cheers
Andrew
 
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