Suggestions for an affordable watch worth engraving

[Travis Fry]

I'm relatively new at this, but coming along quite well. Call me an advanced beginner, or maybe simply intermediate. I'd kinda like to engrave a watch, but I'm at the stage where it would behoove me to not make my first attempt on an expensive one. There's a 99.75% chance I'd keep and wear this myself (or give it away to a friend or family member), so resale is not an issue, nor is the whole "lipstick on a pig" argument. I have basic jewelry skills and am pretty clever with my hands, so assembly and disassembly is most likely (hopefully) not an issue. I'd like to do the face, as well as the band and case, and maybe even the back.

Can anyone suggest a watch I should start with that would engrave well? Maybe a stainless kit you've used? Links, if they're allowed, would be extra handy.

Thanks!

 

[John B.]

Andrew Biggs, the editor of "The Engraver", has a lot of experience with engraving and engravable watches.
You might try contracting him and see if he can advise you.
Best of luck with your project and post pictures of it on the FEGA forum please.

 

[sam]

There are numerous watch cases available on eBay. Take your pick. A popular one is an Explorer style case which is pretty beefy and has room for engraving. If you prefer one with a rotating bezel there are plenty of those as well, but the bezel should be removed prior to engraving.

Be prepared for some tough steel and awkward workholding. Nearly every watch case today is made of 316L stainless steel except for Rolex which uses 904. You might also consider a bronze case for ease of engraving and they develop an attractive patina over time.

I would suggest getting a case that fits ETA 2824 or 2836 movements. You can get an inexpensive clone or a genuine ETA movement and have a lifetime watch. There are lots of dial and hands available to fit ETA. If you prefer the Seiko look there are even more options. Tons of aftermarket cases, dials, hands, bezels, etc. Those cases typically take NH35 movements which are reliable and very inexpensive. They also make a GMT version but the model number escapes me.

 

[EngraverHand]

For your first one, try finding one that has pretty flat sides and as little curves as possible.. unless you’re up for a good challenge

Sometimes the curves up to the crown can be very tricky if the curves are sharp, and if the watch has curves in every direction you’re going to have a lot of fun

I’m far from an expert engraving watches but I have done a few.. I definitely prefer the stainless over the softer ones..

If you get a 2nd hand watch it’s loads of YouTube videos of how to remove parts..

Be prepared for a few hundred hours if it’s a full engraving so make sure it’s one worth keeping.

 

[John B.]

Seems like you are getting some great help and advise on watches and engraving them.
Isn't the Cafe a wonderful resource!
Thank you for the Cafe, Sam!

 

[AllenClapp]

Otto Frei has a separate website for watch parts: https://www.ofrei.com/WatchMaterials.html. Note that the URL is NOT ottofrei.com, it is ofrei.com.

 

[AllenClapp]

https://paganidesign.co/products/pa...echanical-200m-waterproof-wrist-watch-for-men This Pagani watch is a reasonable trial watch for learning to engrave watches. It is not that expensive. It has been used by several people in watch engraving classes. When I looked it up, I found that it is on sale today.

 

[AllenClapp]

Wes Griffin of the Texas Engraving School has online videos on watch engraving and occasionally teaches a class on it.

 

[DaveAtWeirs]

Assembling it yourself is the way to go. If you want to do the case I'd recommend going for a bronze case from aliexpress and put on a thin layer of renaissance wax, I've gotten a few stainless steel ones where they're tough as all hell, Rolex are soft in comparison. Like cutting knifeblade steel. You might get lucky with a softer one.

There's plenty of cases to fit NH34 or NH35 movements which are relatively cheap but if you want to engrave the movement too Id recommend starting with a ETA 6497. They're bigger and based of an old pocket watch design but allow for all sorts of engraving, piercing out, and inlay. You can get a clone for about 35-50 quid or a real nice one for under 200. There's a few panerai watches that use them and you can get similar cases cheaply.

If you wanted a good quality automatic swiss movement then go for a ETA 2824, it's about the same size as the NH34 so there's plenty of available cases for them and they're what the likes of Tudor and Tissot use in their watches. A chinese clone will go for about 75 and a really good one from a swiss factory will be about 200-250

One thing to watch for with the NH movements is that they tend to be plated brass so when you cut them they'll be slightly softer than you expect and the cuts or scratches will be yellow. Even the middle section of the rotors seem to be plated brass.

 

[Travis Fry]

Exactly the kind of responses I was hoping for. Thank you all!

 

[ShamarVelasquez]

When I first started engraving, I found that vintage Seiko watches were great to practice on. They’re durable, affordable, and have a classic design that takes engraving well. I once customized a Seiko diver’s watch with a personal engraving for my brother’s birthday—it turned out really special.

As for replica watches, I’ve seen some enthusiasts customize them with unique engravings to give them a personal touch. It’s a neat way to make it your own without the initial investment of a luxury piece.

Check out local watch shops or online marketplaces for vintage Seiko models—they often have stainless steel cases and bands that are perfect for engraving.

 

[Travis Fry]

As a followup to this, my watch engraving plans got bogged down in the idea of watch disassembly and repair. I'm reasonably confident I can take one apart (not the movement itself, but the watch case) and put it back together, with the exception of the crystal. I broke the last one I tried to install (on an old watch of mine), and have been a little gun shy since then. I assume I'd have to remove the crystal before engraving a watch. Is this correct? For example, the Pagani1717 that Allan mentions-- could I leave the crystal in and not damage anything?

 

[Andrew Biggs]

I would suggest buying a battery operated Walmart watch for your first.

Just make sure it’s not plated and is 316L stainless.

The reason I suggest this is because it is cheap and if you screw it up……….then it doesn’t matter.

You don’t have to remove the crystal….Most of my watches I engrave with the crystal on. I simply protect it with electrical tape. The one thing you do want to remove is the crown as it’s a pain to work around.

Once you have engraved one of them, then go to something a bit more upmarket.

For gravers use Glensteel HSS. Carbides tend to break a lot quicker.

316L stainless cases can vary considerably from pleasant to work on to sticky and gummy. And it doesn’t matter if it’s high end or low end. 316L watch backs tend to be easier to cut because they are machined and not cast.

Some of the stainless watches throw up a bur on the edges so don't be afraid to use wet n dry sandpaper 800 and 1200 grit followed by green polishing paper. Use a solid backing when you are sanding. Just don’t overdo it.

And on it goes.There is a lot to learn engraving watches as they are tricky little things to hold and work on. Some are easy and some are more difficult. And don’t make your design to elaborate. Keep it simple to start with and work your way up.

Don’t overthink it, just do it ………Just consider your first one as a learning curve and go from there.

Cheers
Andrew

 

[Timesform]

I’ve worked with fine watches like Rolexes too, and the burrs from the 904L steel can be tricky. For finishing, I’ve found that using very fine emery paper or a polishing wheel with a fine compound can help smooth out those edges without affecting the detail.