The ultimate pencil sharpener

JMiller

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Huntsville, AL
This is my pencil sharpener of choice, the best points you'll ever get.... any art supply store should have them.

shapener 001.jpg
 

mdengraver

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Jeff you are the man!!!!!!!!! That is definitely the way to go, a few turns on the sandpaper and you're ready to go.
 

RDP

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May 19, 2012
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Brisbane, Australia
sam: early on i used wooden ones. then switched to .5 &.3 mechanical. lately, i bought a few 2mm holders and a sharpener. i'm happy with the points, but a 6h is the hardest leads i could find. i wish there was a source for 2mm leads that were a bit harder.

Monk, I have just found this 10H 2mm leads that I am experimenting with to draw on drafting film, the only draw back is they don't fit my Staedtler holder, they are a little bit thicker, so I had to buy the same brand holder(Koh I Noor) :mad:, and I found a couple of them are kind of warped but the price is ok, they work great on the film as for some reason the coating wears the normal leads very fast, they work for me, :thumbsup:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/KOH-I-NOOR-Graphite-Lead-for-2mm-Diameter-120mm-10H-Mechanical-Pencil-/321685005570


Richard.
 

sam

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Covington, Louisiana
I use a small piece of 320 grit sandpaper taped to my bench after the ultimate pencil sharpener. This brings my pencil to needle sharpness for doing precise layouts under the microscope.

For my artwork I use the sharpener and the sandpaper pack as JMiller describe.
 

DakotaDocMartin

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sam: early on i used wooden ones. then switched to .5 &.3 mechanical. lately, i bought a few 2mm holders and a sharpener. i'm happy with the points, but a 6h is the hardest leads i could find. i wish there was a source for 2mm leads that were a bit harder.

Here you go:
Koh-i-noor 4190 7H 2.0 mm Graphite Leads for Technical Drawing and Retouching

Koh-i-noor 4190 8H 2.0 mm Graphite Leads for Technical Drawing and Retouching

Koh-i-noor 4190 9H 2.0 mm Graphite Leads for Technical Drawing and Retouching
 

KCSteve

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Kansas City, MO
Monk I don't think I'd put my 0.3mm mechanical pencil in my pencil pointer - be too hard on the metal. If I wanted to point that lead I'd use the sandpaper paddle like Sam showed. But given the delicacy of the lead I don't try that.

As soon as I get a chance (the ever-indulgent wife is on vacation this week so my time is otherwise occupied) I'll take pictures showing the difference between using a sharpened, pointed pencil and the 0.3 to draw at high magnification.
 

DiLeon

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Mar 16, 2015
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Location
rainforest Hawaii
what do you have for sale?
If you talk about my work? ??? I got a four feet sea turtle with coral reef and 26 fish and other sea animals took me one year to finish it.....cost 10,000. LOL I am looking for someone rich....and into turtles, but really I am going to use it for wood shows for new commissions. I came on here as I received a gift of four engravers and I know zero about them. Although I am learning fast....great forum, even though I am strictly wood and not metal....hope you do not kick me out because of the medium.
 

DiLeon

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Mar 16, 2015
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Location
rainforest Hawaii
rough sharpening with a meat cleaver.
:eek: LOL!!! wow now,... I would love to see that one.....hate to see what you use to cut up a chicken. All artist are insane... so I will leave at that note. To each our own.:pencil:
 

KCSteve

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Kansas City, MO
And as promised, now that the ever-indulgent wife is back at work I was able to get back to work. I took a moment to grab a comparison of a 0.3mm mechanical pencil vs. a 3H pencil sharpened with this sharpener and then pointed with a pencil pointer.

They actually come out pretty close.

But if I can scrounge up some harder pencils, that will take and hold a true needle point... I believe our Glorious Leader Sam said he uses a 9H.

BTW, what I'm drawing on is something I like for doing my nickel layouts - a red Sharpie marker. I use a big chisel point to paint the whole thing and a fine point to 'erase'. I like the red because you can see through it. For regular engraving I tend to stick with Transfer Wax or daubed on clay, sometimes with some baby powder on top. Don't know why, just what I prefer.
 

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mdengraver

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that's one of the slick features of the Dahles. when you reach the preset level of 'pointiness' it stops cutting and the crank handle just spins with no resistance. you could literally used it blindfolded.
Mitch Moschetti

MRM ENGRAVING
www.mrmengraving.com


Just got my Dahle Professional yesterday. It works real well. Spoke to the manufacturer today since it doesn't come with instructions. They said in order to increase the sharpness move the dial by the handle counterclockwise and clockwise to make the point more blunt. That's a nice feature of the Dahle. Other than that it appears to work similar to the one Sam is promoting. Also the clamp provided holds the sharpener secure which means it's very portable.
 

KCSteve

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The Classroom Friendly sharpener also has the clamp to hold the pencil for you, and comes with a simple clamp to mount it. There's a permanent mount plate available.

But it doesn't have (as far as I can tell) the adjustability of the Dahle - it just makes 'em the same amount of pointy.

To tell the truth, I haven't found a good spot to mount my CF sharpener at my bench so I just load the pencil and then hold the sharpener with my left hand and turn the crank with my right. Since it's feeding the pencil in itself it works just fine.
 

monk

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If you talk about my work? ??? I got a four feet sea turtle with coral reef and 26 fish and other sea animals took me one year to finish it.....cost 10,000. LOL I am looking for someone rich....and into turtles, but really I am going to use it for wood shows for new commissions. I came on here as I received a gift of four engravers and I know zero about them. Although I am learning fast....great forum, even though I am strictly wood and not metal....hope you do not kick me out because of the medium.

everyone her is cerebrally compromized. they don't even know you have sent this post !
 

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