Omar Haltam
Elite Cafe Member
Thank you Carlos for this great thread, it's great to learn from all our mentors on the forum
and thank you John.
happy thanksgiving everyone
and thank you John.
happy thanksgiving everyone
Transfer method #1
- Thread starter dlilazteca
- Start date
quote
(John B, you are a blessing to this forum. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise with us. I always learn something new from you!)
Thank you for your kind comment Sam.
As you know so much of what I write is preaching to the choir for the more advanced Cafe members but it is gracious for you to recognize and accept that. There are always a few new ears and eyes, as we well know.
What you have done with this forum, the free access to both your and other's knowledge of engraving and artistry has created a Tsunami sea change for those seeking guidance. I have learned so much from you and the membership here.
Please accept my sincere thanks to you, Abigail and your moderators for a wonderful Cafe forum on Thanksgiving Day 2016.
(John B, you are a blessing to this forum. Thank you so much for sharing your expertise with us. I always learn something new from you!)
Thank you for your kind comment Sam.
As you know so much of what I write is preaching to the choir for the more advanced Cafe members but it is gracious for you to recognize and accept that. There are always a few new ears and eyes, as we well know.
What you have done with this forum, the free access to both your and other's knowledge of engraving and artistry has created a Tsunami sea change for those seeking guidance. I have learned so much from you and the membership here.
Please accept my sincere thanks to you, Abigail and your moderators for a wonderful Cafe forum on Thanksgiving Day 2016.
handle with care. the first time i fiddled with the stuff, quite a bit ended up on my face
Hi Monk, whatever you do get some sleep tonight and save your strength to attack a turkey tomorrow.
Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours.
my family and i celebrate all holidays with fresh possum innards & turnip greens. no feathers to mess with!
grumpyphil
Elite Cafe Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2011
- Messages
- 106
Turnip Greens...Mmmmm...tastes like green chicken
grumpyphil
Elite Cafe Member
- Joined
- Sep 18, 2011
- Messages
- 106
Has anyone hit on a way to transfer drawings with this method? I just love the beauty of not messing with printers and hit or miss chemical transfer methods, none of which consistently work for me.
Grumpyphil I'm not quite sure I quite understand what method you are talking about.
A drawing on paper can be transferred by using carbon paper of course. The best carbon paper is the one-time use type. Less smeary.
Or by first going over the back of the drawing using the side of the lead of a soft drawing pencil.
Both of these methods work better if you use engravers white or Chinese white on the metal.
The Ngraver Company makes the best white I have found for this.
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i'm just guessing-- but if one made a drawing with a soft charcoal pencil, and use wax for transfer, i'd think some of the charcoal would transfer.
makes me wonder::; if one waxed & dusted clear tape-- then draw on the dusted side-- would that not also transfer?
perhaps the day will come when one technique will work on all printers on all applications
Brian Marshall
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
One of the earliest transfer methods I ever used was exactly that. Transferring pencil drawings. (remember the transfer will be in reverse)
We used a nasty mixture that contained lacquer thinner, beeswax and Damar varnish - if I remember right?
Painted it on the metal, maybe helped it dry with heat gun or hair dryer? Burnished the face down drawing.
You could go straight to engraving if you were careful to keep your fingers from rubbing out the transfer. Nothing will dry or "seal" beeswax.
If it was large or intricate, it was better to at least scribe the outline.
It worked quite well in the days before the computer/scanner/printer replaced it.
B.
We used a nasty mixture that contained lacquer thinner, beeswax and Damar varnish - if I remember right?
Painted it on the metal, maybe helped it dry with heat gun or hair dryer? Burnished the face down drawing.
You could go straight to engraving if you were careful to keep your fingers from rubbing out the transfer. Nothing will dry or "seal" beeswax.
If it was large or intricate, it was better to at least scribe the outline.
It worked quite well in the days before the computer/scanner/printer replaced it.
B.
The FN/ Browning engravers used an interesting method to transfer the standard, everyday engraving patterns to their work.
They had paper embossed images of the stock patterns to use.
And I still use this method to transfer the standard Grade I-5 patterns to Winchester Model 12's and standard Colt 1911's and the like.
Here is how to make and use them. Do this at least a couple of days before you want to use them
Take a piece of good quality rag bond letter head paper and soak it in warm water for half hour. Pin it to a shelf to drip dry 15 mins.
Spray your master engraving pattern liberally with WD-40 or equal.
Lay the moist paper over the engraving and burnish it well to pick up the image of the under laying engraving.
It will be embossed into the paper.
Carefully remove the paper image and liberally spray the face side (over a waste basket or large bowl) with WD-40 or equal.
Pin the edge of the paper up to a shelf to drip dry in a fairly warm place. Best to have a plate below to catch drips.
Give it a couple of days to dry in a warm place and it becomes parchment like and semi rigid.
To transfer the image to your work coat the work surface with transfer wax. (Our landlord make a good one they tell me
Dust the surface lightly with talc or corn starch. Lay your parchment like image down and burnish it with an Orange stick or ivory burnisher.
It takes a little practice to get the right pressure for a clear image and not ruin your parchment paper master.
Once you are on to it your masters will last for years. I store them flat in an empty candy box.
I have some that I have used dozens of times and many of them are 25 or more years old.
Your work image will rub off with hand pressure or drag.
Until you get used to cutting without hand drag you can lightly scribe the pattern.
Another low-tech way to record keep and duplicate existing patterns.
Thousands of engraved FN/Browning guns were done using this method.
They had paper embossed images of the stock patterns to use.
And I still use this method to transfer the standard Grade I-5 patterns to Winchester Model 12's and standard Colt 1911's and the like.
Here is how to make and use them. Do this at least a couple of days before you want to use them
Take a piece of good quality rag bond letter head paper and soak it in warm water for half hour. Pin it to a shelf to drip dry 15 mins.
Spray your master engraving pattern liberally with WD-40 or equal.
Lay the moist paper over the engraving and burnish it well to pick up the image of the under laying engraving.
It will be embossed into the paper.
Carefully remove the paper image and liberally spray the face side (over a waste basket or large bowl) with WD-40 or equal.
Pin the edge of the paper up to a shelf to drip dry in a fairly warm place. Best to have a plate below to catch drips.
Give it a couple of days to dry in a warm place and it becomes parchment like and semi rigid.
To transfer the image to your work coat the work surface with transfer wax. (Our landlord make a good one they tell me
Dust the surface lightly with talc or corn starch. Lay your parchment like image down and burnish it with an Orange stick or ivory burnisher.
It takes a little practice to get the right pressure for a clear image and not ruin your parchment paper master.
Once you are on to it your masters will last for years. I store them flat in an empty candy box.
I have some that I have used dozens of times and many of them are 25 or more years old.
Your work image will rub off with hand pressure or drag.
Until you get used to cutting without hand drag you can lightly scribe the pattern.
Another low-tech way to record keep and duplicate existing patterns.
Thousands of engraved FN/Browning guns were done using this method.
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Doc Mark
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
That's pretty cool John. How much shrinkage of the paper did you have to plan for? Was the "master" engraving enlarged by a certain degree?
Hello Doc Mark, good to hear from you.
if you use good rag bond paper, such as out of date letterhead paper, no shrink allowance is required.
You can often get this type of paper as miss-prints for give away price from a local printer.
Cheap copy paper might well give problems in shrinkage, and in durability for sure.
And remember, most standard types of factory engraving patterns are not edge to edge so very minor shrinkage would be no problem.
Personally, I have never noticed any shrinkage from the original engraving size and of course, the FN/Browning factory was mostly interested in having near duplicates of what the offered in their catalog advertisements.
if you use good rag bond paper, such as out of date letterhead paper, no shrink allowance is required.
You can often get this type of paper as miss-prints for give away price from a local printer.
Cheap copy paper might well give problems in shrinkage, and in durability for sure.
And remember, most standard types of factory engraving patterns are not edge to edge so very minor shrinkage would be no problem.
Personally, I have never noticed any shrinkage from the original engraving size and of course, the FN/Browning factory was mostly interested in having near duplicates of what the offered in their catalog advertisements.
dlilazteca
~ Elite 1000 Member ~
John,The FN/ Browning engravers used an interesting method to transfer the standard, everyday engraving patterns to their work.
They had paper embossed images of the stock patterns to use.
And I still use this method to transfer the standard Grade I-5 patterns to Winchester Model 12's and standard Colt 1911's and the like.
Here is how to make and use them. Do this at least a couple of days before you want to use them
Take a piece of good quality rag bond letter head paper and soak it in warm water for half hour. Pin it to a shelf to drip dry 15 mins.
Spray your master engraving pattern liberally with WD-40 or equal.
Lay the moist paper over the engraving and burnish it well to pick up the image of the under laying engraving.
It will be embossed into the paper.
Carefully remove the paper image and liberally spray the face side (over a waste basket or large bowl) with WD-40 or equal.
Pin the edge of the paper up to a shelf to drip dry in a fairly warm place. Best to have a plate below to catch drips.
Give it a couple of days to dry in a warm place and it becomes parchment like and semi rigid.
To transfer the image to your work coat the work surface with transfer wax. (Our landlord make a good one they tell me
Dust the surface lightly with talc or corn starch. Lay your parchment like image down and burnish it with an Orange stick or ivory burnisher.
It takes a little practice to get the right pressure for a clear image and not ruin your parchment paper master.
Once you are on to it your masters will last for years. I store them flat in an empty candy box.
I have some that I have used dozens of times and many of them are 25 or more years old.
Your work image will rub off with hand pressure or drag.
Until you get used to cutting without hand drag you can lightly scribe the pattern.
Another low-tech way to record keep and duplicate existing patterns.
Thousands of engraved FN/Browning guns were done using this method.
Thank you, you've been an inspiration to me, have read. What i can stay the majority of the forum posts. I use your graver in the 3/32 square tube method and I've never looked back!
Keep posting brother. Thank you! Honestly thank you!
Sent from my SM-N920T using Tapatalk
Thank you for your kind words Carlos.
They can sometimes be found on the highway, just after "sleeping one off."
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