Because it's part of the forum software packaged and there's no way to easily remove it.
Can it be labeled as "preferred" or "less preferred" as an identifier?
on subject, I have the Brother HL-L2340DW Laser, works great!
Because it's part of the forum software packaged and there's no way to easily remove it.
So far I am drawing directly on the metal but I keep rubbing bits of it off when I make a pass. It's pretty frustrating.
I appreciate the recap of an old conversation, the direction, and the clue in about the search function.
At this point I want to use a graver to put my art on metal. I had hoped not to get too bogged down in transfer methods.
Sounds like there is a lot to learn there too.
Imagine my surprise to learn that being a metal smith meant I had to know the internal workings of office equipment.
Thanks for the heads up. I'm off to FedEx to see what printers I can get my hands on to test.
Transferring printed designs certainly has its place, but please don't think it's mandatory. Many of us draw directly on the metal, which is how we learned back in the day. I caution all my students not to become slaves to transfers. If you do, then you are putting huge limits on how far you can go with this art. If you're just a hobbyist and just want to have fun engraving, then that's fine. If you're going to get serious with it then drawing is an absolute must.
sometimes we make a transfer of something we ourselves drew on paper first. i often work out a design on paper, clean it up to a usable pen & ink line drawing, then reduce it back to actual size for a transfer. using transfers does not necessarily mean we're not using our own designs/artwork.
Then once you have drawn with a pencil, go back and lightly scribe the lines. That way you don't lose anything.
I use a scriber with a slightly rounded tip that doesn't scratch the metal. It burnishes.
When you have made your main cuts, lightly sand with the grit paper backed by something solid.
Cheers
Andrew
If all else fails, and you don't want to buy A new printer- clean metal surface with alcohol after lightly abrading with 2000 mesh. Print or photocopy your lettering/drawing onto 45gsm Bank Layout paper available from any artists supplier, you may have to carefully tape it to your heavier 80 gsm normal printer paper for it to go through your printer. Lay down a thick layer of artists 'Multi Medium Matte' ( which is a weird kind of gel glue mine is from Ranger Ink) on your metal and laminate the mirror image down onto it with a brayer using heavy pressure.
Do this in the morning, then after lunch soak it in hot water with detergent, then in the evening rub the disintegrated paper fibres off with your fingers. Takes all day to get your transfer done and only on flat plate but permits me to use a printer that doesn't work with other methods
what is, "bank layout paper"? never heard of such paper.