Question: Tricks for flare cutting?

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Thread starter #1
Would it be OK to wet the graver with some oil for flare cutting? My high speed steel gravers cut considerably faster with oil.

Using a turntable, do you normally grab the vise or the turntable when turning it?

Best regards,

Ralf
 

Roger Bleile

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#4
I do the same as Sam. An important aspect is to make your cuts in one continuous pass. Any stopping then starting in a cut will show progression marks that detract from the look. While watching a skilled engraver on video like Sam or Chris DeCamillis looks easy, flare cutting requires excellent graver control.
 

Roger Bleile

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Dear Roger,

thanks a lot for your advice and the link to your tutorial. I‘ll go through it toroughly. I got Sam‘s instruction video quite early and work my way trough it since weeks.

I‘m always amazed how much detailed information is provided by you „great names“ in engraving to newbies like me and with how much patience my questions are answered. I can’t thank all the contibutors enough for it. I‘m an electronics engineer with a goldsmith workshop in my basement. My main purpose is jewelry making. I pick up practical skills from craftsmen who were willing to share them, in Germany, Turkey and Tunisia so far. Up until two years ago, I used graver mostly for stone setting and cleaning up after soldering.

Best regards,

Ralf
 

monk

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sinc joining the forum, i've seen a whole raft of buckles. many, if not most, were very complex, ornate, and quite beautiful. to this day, the buckle roger did is still my very favorite. it's not complex,rather somewhat un complicated. none the less, it is a mesmerizing piece to look at. when you see it, i think you might agree.
 
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Sam

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I'm pretty sure I mention in the video that the more metal you remove per cut, the greater the demands of graver control. Flare cutting is prefect example of that, as is script lettering. But flare cutting probably requires a bit more because it's often a much larger, longer, and wider cut than script.

I can promise you this...all of your engraving will benefit from the skills developed learning flare cutting.
 

monk

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well. i've given the flare cut a try. uh, it aint as easy as it looks. it's like i'm learning all over again. what have i always told people ? yeah, i must practice.
 

Chujybear

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#10
Would it be OK to wet the graver with some oil for flare cutting? My high speed steel gravers cut considerably faster with oil.

Using a turntable, do you normally grab the vise or the turntable when turning it?

Best regards,

Ralf

Your first question.. it would not impede you to have oilm on your tool.. so it is okay
 

cropduster

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monk

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chris: do you happen to have a dwg of the tool you used in the video. i started to cut the way you do, both directions. i'd think your graver would be better for cutting both directions.
 
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speeedy6

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Is the flare cut style only suitable for bright cutting? I mean how would it look blackened or on a blued gun ? And, is it acceptable to mix one style with another style like American Scroll with some Flare cutting in some odd or remote areas ? Thanks, Mark
 

Sam

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Is the flare cut style only suitable for bright cutting? I mean how would it look blackened or on a blued gun ? And, is it acceptable to mix one style with another style like American Scroll with some Flare cutting in some odd or remote areas ? Thanks, Mark
IMO it doesn't look good blackened. It struts its stuff when it's really bright and sparkly. On a blued gun I think it'd be quite nice, and it can be mixed with other styles if done correctly. There's no simple answer for that...you have to approach mixing styles very carefully
 

monk

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mixing styles for me, is ok. that is if the overall effect harmonizes well in the area it is applied. personally, i never did much of this.
 

speeedy6

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Sounds like mixing styles is ok , if, you know what you're doing, I better stay away from that for a while. Thanks for the replies, Mark
 

Ed Westerly

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#18
I have engraved guns where I used traditional methods on part of the gun and flared cutting on other areas, and they turned out the way I wanted them to. You need a large gun like a Winchester 92 or 73 so the styles can be separated and have their own integrity, so for example, I wouldn't mix styles on most handguns.
 
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