why is there no information on laser machines for marking metal?

[Ron H]

I am surprised there has been no posts or threads concerning the use of laser machines for marking out lines on metal. I am just getting started on my engraving journey and have been wasting hours of time trying to get a good transfer. I have struggling to use the acetone transfer method. Most of the recommended laser printer are older and the manufactures have "fixed" the problems with toner fusing. I am at a point I need to practice and would like to put some of my own sketches onto a plate. I know that several of the top engravers will sell you a laser marked practice plate. Can they help in letting the community know what machine do or don't work? What power laser is needed? Can you use a small 5 watt machine or do you need a larger 30 to 50 watt machine. I am looking for machine that will just mark the metal not engrave it. Any thoughts, opinions and recommendations are appreciated. If I have missed posting on this subject please send me the links I missed. Thanks

 

[monk]

i can directly engrave metal. i've done it on 2 guns. client loved it- ihated it ! i can also do layouts directly on flat work. again-- disliked it. by the time i do a drawing, scan and import to corel, resize it, then send to my laser. a waste of time. mine is a 30 watt co2. i do commercial work on wood, glass, ceramic tile,stone, plastic, & etc-----.
a fiber laser is best. i'd be cautious for buying for less than about $1500. also i wouldn't buy from any non us company. buy from "u know where", try to get customer support. a true waste of time & cash. any reputable us dealer can describe all the info u would need about their machines. btw, my laser is a monster-- will do a 9" x 18" x 24" block , with a max weight @ 200 pounds. handy, at a mere $25,000. it.s an epilog.
my epilog can mark with the use of a chemical coating.when the coating dries (15-20 min.) the design deposits only where it should be. then wash plate with water. done deal.
i paid cash for mine in, 2004. paid for itsself in 4 years. cust support-- excellent. they will even send a tech to your place of work if needed. btw. the old machine still works like new !!!!!

 

[chrishiggins]

I have a vevor 10 watt laser and I can use it to mark metal. Will not be deep but have made designs on metal parts. Would work good for lines and simple things just have to run it slow. And make sure you focus the laser correctly

 

[Ron H]

I have a vevor 10 watt laser and I can use it to mark metal. Will not be deep but have made designs on metal parts. Would work good for lines and simple things just have to run it slow. And make sure you focus the laser correctly

Thank you for the information.

 

[Ron H]

i can directly engrave metal. i've done it on 2 guns. client loved it- ihated it ! i can also do layouts directly on flat work. again-- disliked it. by the time i do a drawing, scan and import to corel, resize it, then send to my laser. a waste of time. mine is a 30 watt co2. i do commercial work on wood, glass, ceramic tile,stone, plastic, & etc-----.
a fiber laser is best. i'd be cautious for buying for less than about $1500. also i wouldn't buy from any non us company. buy from "u know where", try to get customer support. a true waste of time & cash. any reputable us dealer can describe all the info u would need about their machines. btw, my laser is a monster-- will do a 9" x 18" x 24" block , with a max weight @ 200 pounds. handy, at a mere $25,000. it.s an epilog.
my epilog can mark with the use of a chemical coating.when the coating dries (15-20 min.) the design deposits only where it should be. then wash plate with water. done deal.
i paid cash for mine in, 2004. paid for itsself in 4 years. cust support-- excellent. they will even send a tech to your place of work if needed. btw. the old machine still works like new !!!!!

Thank you for the information. The only US manufacture I have found so far has been in the $7000 plus range. Again i am surprised that this question has not come up before, particularly when there are a slew of treads talking about issues with the various transfer methods.

 

[AllenClapp]

Facebook has groups devoted to laser users. The HYBRID ENGRAVING CLUB is for laser users who also engrave manually.

 

[chrishiggins]

I just ran a trial on a test piece I sanded the metal first then put a thin layer( I used blue acrylic paint) ran my laser 90% 100speed. This took about a hour.

 

[sam]

Thank you for the information. The only US manufacture I have found so far has been in the $7000 plus range. Again i am surprised that this question has not come up before, particularly when there are a slew of treads talking about issues with the various transfer methods.

There are no US manufacturers of lasers that I'm aware of. I would recommend the Haotian laser company in China. Great machines and excellent service. Reach out to Pascal Lui on Facebook and tell him I sent you.
Other than that, an easy buy is an Xtool F1 which can be used for marking metal.

FYI, at some point you will have to use a pencil to draw directly onto the workpiece for many jobs. Lasers are great tools but by the time I fiddle with making a vector file for the laser I could have drawn onto the workpiece and engraved it in less time. So it's not necessarily a fast and easy process. There can be quite a learning curve.

 

[Ron H]

There are no US manufacturers of lasers that I'm aware of. I would recommend the Haotian laser company in China. Great machines and excellent service. Reach out to Pascal Lui on Facebook and tell him I sent you.
Other than that, an easy buy is an Xtool F1 which can be used for marking metal.

FYI, at some point you will have to use a pencil to draw directly onto the workpiece for many jobs. Lasers are great tools but by the time I fiddle with making a vector file for the laser I could have drawn onto the workpiece and engraved it in less time. So it's not necessarily a fast and easy process. There can be quite a learning curve.

Thank you the recommendations, there have several comments about the time it takes to draw format and print using the laser marker. Learning curve was often mentioned. Like I said, I am still learning control of the graver (practice) while learning how to properly draw my own scrolls. It is a balancing act that’s gets thrown out when your acetone transfer really does not take. I know there are some practice plates out there that are to advanced for me at this time. I am looking forward to meeting you in June at a class at GRS.

 

[Ron H]

I just ran a trial on a test piece I sanded the metal first then put a thin layer( I used blue acrylic paint) ran my laser 90% 100speed. This took about a hour.

My question would be if I want just a light outline of the graphics would it a full hour? I believe I am getting the idea that if you want to mark on steel you need to first place a substrate (acrylic paint) on the steel that will enbed itself into the steel. A lot to learn.

 

[chrishiggins]

My question would be if I want just a light outline of the graphics would it a full hour? I believe I am getting the idea that if you want to mark on steel you need to first place a substrate (acrylic paint) on the steel that will enbed itself into the steel. A lot to learn.

You have to use a dark pigment on anything that reflects like metal, glass, mirror. The more expensive lasers can engrave with out I believe. It worked good for me to practice this.

 

[oniemarc]

What kind of metal are you trying to transfer to with the acetone? Some merals simply don't like that transfer method. May have nothing to do with the toner.

 

[Ron H]

What kind of metal are you trying to transfer to with the acetone? Some merals simply don't like that transfer method. May have nothing to do with the toner.

I am making plates out of 1/8 inch 1018 mild steel. I run the plate under a 80 grit surface grinder. After that i well step up the steel on a belt grinder 80, 120, 220, at this point i will use a 320 disk grinder to make sure every thing is flat. I have been using the belt grinder up to 600 grit get my plate surface smother, my final step would be run the plate on a buffing wheel with green rouge. Before trying the transfer I clean the surface with acetone. I am using an older HP multifunction machine that uses a hp 78a cartridge. At this point i am running under20% success rate. Do i need to go up to a complete polish Surface? I had no problems making the transfer when taking the beginner class at GRS.

 

[Grayson]

Very interesting, but some lasers require special dedicated and high-priced software. Some of these are available only by monthly subscription. Discussions of lasers should also mention the required software.

 

[oniemarc]

I am making plates out of 1/8 inch 1018 mild steel. I run the plate under a 80 grit surface grinder. After that i well step up the steel on a belt grinder 80, 120, 220, at this point i will use a 320 disk grinder to make sure every thing is flat. I have been using the belt grinder up to 600 grit get my plate surface smother, my final step would be run the plate on a buffing wheel with green rouge. Before trying the transfer I clean the surface with acetone. I am using an older HP multifunction machine that uses a hp 78a cartridge. At this point i am running under20% success rate. Do i need to go up to a complete polish Surface? I had no problems making the transfer when taking the beginner class at GRS.

Sounds like it should be sticking. If it sticks one a piece of brass...it should stick to the steel. I always clean the plate with acetone...then alcohol...then use clear tape to pull of the last residue. Also...I soak the paper in acetone while transferring, but will not let it dry before I take it off.

Straight acetine never worked for me. I love nailpolish remover on an acetone base

 

[Goldjockey]

My question would be if I want just a light outline of the graphics would it a full hour? I believe I am getting the idea that if you want to mark on steel you need to first place a substrate (acrylic paint) on the steel that will enbed itself into the steel. A lot to learn.

A good fiber laser, 30W or above will mark metal in seconds. These start at around 2K at the very low end, so these are not for someone just dabbling. You will also need a program to trace bitmaps to vectors, and the requisite skills to use both the programs and the laser. Bottom line though, once the pattern is saved as a .DFX or other readable format, simply marking the metal goes very quickly. To reduce glare and reflection on the surface, I just dab a piece of modeling clay over the area I’m working with leaving a thin dull film. This is usually enough to deal with the reflective quality of the metal.