Work Flow

rmgreen

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
338
Location
Washington
What is the work sequence from beginning to finished project? Assuming that the project is properly polished and the design phase has been completed. The design transferred to the work piece. The project contains various operations: metal inlay, scroll, relief, shading/detailing, bulino, background darkening, finishing such as bluing, French gray, etc and protective covering. There’s probably no 1 way. Some operations will be controlled by personal preferences and the object being embellished. I have gathered by comments made on this forum that normally:

1st scribe/burnish the design on work piece.
2nd Lightly cut design
3rd cut inlay, channel, under cut, inlay metal, clean/polish inlaid material
4th deepen scroll
5th remove material in relief areas and cut/matt background
6th Bulino work. Has its own work flow
7th Detailing/shading of scroll
8th Bluing - Background and shading darkening if left in the white/coin finished/grayed
9th Protective outer coating (oiled, waxed, clear coat with lacquer to spray epoxy)

Is this a normal work flow from start to finish? Anything forgotten or out of sequence?
 

SamW

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Jan 31, 2007
Messages
2,446
Location
Castle Valley, UT in the Red Rock country
I tend to mix and match...doing what seems fun at the time. I usually draw borders then scroll patterns and scenes. Then cut borders including any gold cavities. Then cut the scroll and any animals. I will add gold lines about this time as I like to see what it will look like with the rest of the design, and trim down somewhat but leave the gold proud of the steel, knowing I might dent or scratch the gold as I work and there will be enough to burnish out those problems. Final smoothing the gold and inlaying animals comes about last.
 

rmgreen

Elite Cafe Member
Joined
Sep 3, 2009
Messages
338
Location
Washington
Sam and John,

Being able to plan/think ahead for eliminating possible problems is the reason for work flow sequences. Thanks for your experiences so that I may learn without having to experience the "hard knocks" learning curve.
 

VTA

New Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2023
Messages
1
Hi, I am engraving up-reel aluminum parts for a bamboo fishing pole. specifically the reel heel. It is 18 mm round in practice brass I machined. The scene is a trout underwater tail out. The point of horizon is center, the light source is from bottom to top. I have outlined drawing just outside of my lines on the 5 surfaces to be relived. All of the voided area's are marked with black magic marker. I have the Lindsey system using pre-tapered carbalt graver's, 110 ^ - 80^ and 3 flat knife, large, medium, small. I use my micro motor and .03,.08 round burs to level surfaces relieved. I will finish with ceramic pins shaped to fish and objects.

Do I need to make micro graves out of bur bits? Can I use my Lindsey system?
Thank -you
 

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