my eye sees way too much crammed in too little space. i'd think a more simplified design would work better here. check out the flare cut type design. you'll see what i mean. roger bleile is a master of this type of cut.
sam alfano does a dvd on this principle. check that out.
i personally know a "tdermist". while the hapless critter is still somewhat flexible, he can make armatures (as i call them) out of heavy wire, plaster of paris, and pieces of wood. such can create just about any shape to conform to a natural looking specimen. i would think this technique could...
if it's a dc motor, simply reverse the two leads.not familiar with the andu. it could possibly be reversed inside the unit housing. ya gotta know watchur doin or ya can mess things up. try calling the supplier. they may have a fast answer.
another trick: draw them normal size. use an art projector to blow them up to very large. this may allow you to more realistically evaluate the work. drawing well is more important than the rest of the disciplines needed to produce quality work. your execution looked rather consistent. the...
your artistic skills notwithstanding, even with the greatest effort and determination, achieving this level of skill is like a roll of the dice. the time needed to get to this level is long. we all want to be this good. few of us actually get this good. i never discourage the desire to become...
job one for you: you should learn to draw relatively perfect scroll spines or backbones.if you re cut this exact same layout with better scroll spines the design would improve from just that one feature. nothin is overnite. practice with the pencil. no reason to cut a less-than-great...
tyvm sam. i used the grs dual angler and some diamond wheels & burs in a micro motor. i found it to be a bit of a bugger to control. mitch was right. for me at least it was a fun xperiment.
tyvm to you all. i made a very crude version from a 120. the important parts were spot on. made no attempt to make it pretty. in testing, i found, at least for me, i could get the same results from a flat graver. although with the flat, the very fine beginning or end was a bit more difficult...
if i remember it was a 150. the negative areas are extreme. i'm going to make at least one. i'm thinking this geometry may buckle under using it in steel. i'll let everyone know how such turns out. as they say, nothing ventured, nothing gained